Type: Sport, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: Lee Sheftel and Doug Couleur
Page Views: 5,277 total · 27/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on May 3, 2008
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route

28 Opinions
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Warning Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Seasonal Raptor Nesting. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A fantastic, steep face route using the edges of multiple plates up a beautiful face of rock. Ascend nicely featured rock to the first and second bolts before a semi-runout section to the third bolt. From the third bolt, aim for obviously chalked up crystals under a tiny roof. Staying in balance on thin feet around the crystals is a crux.

After the fourth bolt head slightly left on more great edges and then back right for the fifth and sixth bolts. A large runout on easier terrain (5.8/5.9) to the anchor can be minimized with a .5 or .75 camlot in the horizontal crack above.

The route is listed as 5.11+/5.12- in both the Taos Rock and Falcon NM Climbing books. I suspect it's 5.12- for shorties but for people 5'10" and taller, it's 5.11+ as there are good ledges for hands and feet but if you're shorter, it probably means more intermediate moves between the good ledges.

Location Suggest change

Left side of the Mosaic Wall, also known as the Painted Wall. Scramble up the water trough/slot and this route is the one right at the top of the slot. It's the second route in from the right on Painted Wall, just left of the dark streak. Look for the crystals under the tiny roof.

Protection Suggest change

Six bolts with optional medium cam placement going to the anchor. Shared cold shuts anchor (you better be rappelling after cleaning it!) with three other routes on the face.