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Routes in Mosaic Rock

Baby Cakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better Red Than Dead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bienvenidos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Black Streak T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Heads T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chicken Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Clean Green Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cryin' in the Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Black Nightmare T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dirty Diagonal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doctor Yousuf's Gang S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dung Alley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fine Little Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Five Years After T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fried Chickens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holthouse In A Haulbag T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Holthouse to Hell T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jug or Not S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Mama Jugs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rite of Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seaman Girl T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Serpent Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Serpentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suprise-Suprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Techtonics T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Techweenie S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Threshold S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Walking Dread T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Lee Sheftel and Doug Couleur
Page Views: 2,952 total · 23/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on May 3, 2008
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

A fantastic, steep face route using the edges of multiple plates up a beautiful face of rock. Ascend nicely featured rock to the first and second bolts before a semi-runout section to the third bolt. From the third bolt, aim for obviously chalked up crystals under a tiny roof. Staying in balance on thin feet around the crystals is a crux.

After the fourth bolt head slightly left on more great edges and then back right for the fifth and sixth bolts. A large runout on easier terrain (5.8/5.9) to the anchor can be minimized with a .5 or .75 camlot in the horizontal crack above.

The route is listed as 5.11+/5.12- in both the Taos Rock and Falcon NM Climbing books. I suspect it's 5.12- for shorties but for people 5'10" and taller, it's 5.11+ as there are good ledges for hands and feet but if you're shorter, it probably means more intermediate moves between the good ledges.

Location

Left side of the Mosaic Wall, also known as the Painted Wall. Scramble up the water trough/slot and this route is the one right at the top of the slot. It's the second route in from the right on Painted Wall, just left of the dark streak. Look for the crystals under the tiny roof.

Protection

Six bolts with optional medium cam placement going to the anchor. Shared cold shuts anchor (you better be rappelling after cleaning it!) with three other routes on the face.

Photos

Mike Howard    
FA: Unsure if Bruce Holthouse?. I was just hanging out with Bruce today at the Taos Cow looking out across the Pueblo and trying to pry some local climbing history out of him. Modest man. He never named the climbs and didn't record dates and detail. He doesn't recall who was on the first ascent with him on many of these lines because they were all done ground up, over several days, hand-drilling on lead, with any partner who was available. Good style. They'd get a 1/4 bolt or two done one day, lower off, then high-point it again on another day and repeat. The sort of talent that was around in Northern New Mexico at that time left a proud legacy. Bruce, Peter Prandoni, Doug Bridgers, Mike Roybal, Ed Jaramillo, Cayce Weber, et al. Some one should do the definitive "Riding Giants" movie for the Taos Mountain film festival. Or at least, add the names I left out (of ignorance) here. Cheers. Mike May 27, 2008
William Penner
The 505
 
William Penner   The 505
 
Mike,

Bruce put up Techweenie drilling from stances? Amazing, I would have thought those routes were put up later than the 70s using sky hooks ala Bachar for bolting on lead. Any info on whether they were putting that stuff up while yoyoing?

Techweenie is the best route at TP for sure. May 27, 2008
Mike Howard    
I have to verify this next week.

I am handicapped by the fact he claims he didn't name the FA's and is going on recollection for I am sure he hasn't read a recent guide (although I am certain Jay gave him a copy and DJ probably as well). I asked him about the routes on the mosaic wall (The steep wall left of Dirty Dihedral). Specifically, the steep routes up to the tree in the middle of the wall. He said he did a 11+/12- to the tree ground up bolting on lead with 1/4"ers which we guessed were rebolted in the 90's. I was assuming we were talking about "Techweenie".

Let me confirm. I typed the FA in at the cow when we were sitting together, but we could have this wrong. Now, I am getting just a mere inkling of the sort of concern Roper must have felt documenting the hx of the Big Ditch.
Let's wait and see,
Mike May 27, 2008
William Penner
The 505
 
William Penner   The 505
 
Thanks for the info Mike. The route to the tree would not be Techweenie but the less enjoyable line to its right called Tech-No Star. I look forward to finding out if it was done using hooks versus stances. My interest is mostly to find out what the early folks were doing, not to slag on them for one style choice versus another. May 27, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
 
This is really interesting detail, Mike. It's great you had the opportunity to sit down with Bruce and talk to him about these routes. The history of climbing at TP, and Northern NM in general, is not something I know a lot about so I find it fascinating to hear the details of these first ascents. Having been a bit spooked and stressed on a few of the routes at TP even knowing where the routes go and what to expect, it's amazing to think of Bruce and others just plain going for it into the unknown and placing bolts on lead. Incredible! May 28, 2008
Just came along these posts. Neat to get some historical perspective on TP as I have spent many enjoyable days there.

In particular, I have climbed Techweenie several times (not recently) and am in even greater admiration of Bruce for establishing this route ground up!

I would rate Techweenie as 11c. One of the better routes at TP. Jun 10, 2008
I don't want to start WW III here, but, Tech No-Star is a Doug Couleur / Lee Sheftel route, put up on lead by Couleur, maybe on sight. Tech Weenie is a Sheftel/Couleur route, put up on lead by Sheftel (I think we previewed this on TR). Techtonics is a Todd Bibler route, I don't know the style. To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt is a Couleur/Sheftel route, put up on sight on lead by Couleur, using small friends and stoppers wherever possible. All bolts were put in using hooks, although possibly from stances on one on TBOL.

These and other routes we did at TP were in the context of the controversy over bolting that was going on at the time. TP was a carry over of the White Rock bolt wars, although nothing at TP was chopped, at least not then. For example, Bolts to Nowhere was an attempt at ground up on sight. When we couldn't do it, instead of rap bolting, we left it for someone that could do it. By the way, the route immediately to the right of Bolts to Nowhere is In Step. I haven't been to TP in several years, so there may be stuff there that I am not aware of. Jay's guide seems to be missing a couple of things.

None of this is to take anything away from Bruce, who I haven't seen in years. My first climbing at TP was all on 1/4 inch bolts drilled by hand, a lot by Bruce, and they were bold routes then and now. Similarly, imagine all the routes on Torreon, Sandias, without the 3/8 inch bolts that are there now.... Jul 3, 2008
William Penner
The 505
 
William Penner   The 505
 
Thanks for the update on the FA information Doug. It is important to acknowledge the variety of ways routes at TP went in, be they ground-up with hooks or stances...or the dreaded rap-bolt. Nice job putting the Mosaic Wall routes up in an appropriate style, they would have been run-out nightmares if they were done with stance bolting if it would even be possible on some sections. With all due respect to those who think otherwise, not all the good routes went in at TP bolting at stances on lead and I don't think it somehow qualifies as the only good TP style.

There is nothing quite so satisfying as the ground-up onsight ascent; the adventure just keeps unfolding.

Doug, what 3/8" bolts are you referring to in the Sandias, new ones that sprouted on old routes or bolts in general on new routes? Jul 3, 2008
Mike Howard    
Doug,
Thanks for correcting my error. No war worth fighting regardless. It is nice to give credit where it is due. Bruce would hardly take credit for his own routes if it weren't for me wanting to know the history. Any confusion would be mine. I know that Jay left the FA's out of his edition because it was difficult to track down. The value of this site is obvious for this type of documentation.
Do you know which route I might be talking about on that wall?
Salud y paz,
Mike Jul 4, 2008
Mike Howard    
I climbed with Bruce today at TP. He led Clean Green Dream as a 30th anniversary celebration... He still feels that the route needs an upgrade. We also reviewed the line up the black streak on Mosaic Wall to the lone tree. He is pretty certain he did it ground up drilling from stances and or hooks. 4 or 5 1/4" inch bolts that look as though they are 3/8" now. Who knows. May 5, 2009
Mike: If the line being discussed is #29 in Jay's book, called Tech No-Star, I put the 3/8 inch bolts in on lead, hanging on hooks, belayed by Lee Sheftel. There were no 1/4 inch bolts there. The tree had old slings. I recall someone telling me that Todd Skinner may have top roped the line, from the slings. Also, I named the route Ocho Diamentes .... Jun 2, 2009
Mike Howard    
Doug, Great history with you and Lee...even Todd Skinner at TP? I hope you understand I am just trying to add bits of the story to the mystery surrounding some of these routes. It remains unclear which route Bruce did. Please add your and Lee's route to the database. Why Ocho Diamentes?

While I have your attention, did you and/or Lee ever climb routes over at the Bat Cave/Vista Verde area up river from Pilar? There are a number of 2 and 3 rawl bolt anchors with silicone under SMC hangers that the rest of us don't know the history of. Matt Samet thought Lee may have placed them and perhaps led a few of the cracks out there. Similar anchors down by some John Dunn climbs. Any thoughts? Jun 3, 2009
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11+
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11+
Wow, this is an amazing and very interesting history to read after having just done Techweenie with no idea except Jay's guide and that it was the most interesting and coolest line on that section of the wall. I guessed that it was bolted ground up because of how well placed the bolts are, and the leftern zig it takes to a perfectly placed bolt. I thought it looked runout, but in fact I found it perfectly bolted for my lead taste. Excellent to catch up a bit on the ethic of development out there and partake just a little bit of this fun area. Thank you all for the hard work on it! Aug 8, 2012
Matthias Lang
Albuquerque
  5.11d
Matthias Lang   Albuquerque
  5.11d
Awesome route. Found an offset brass nut pretty helpful to mediate the semi-runout after the second bolt. Sep 17, 2012
Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
A gift! - harder 11a's in Cali for sure ;) Apr 3, 2016
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
  5.11a/b
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
  5.11a/b
One of the best pitches I’ve done in a long time. Nov 10, 2017

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