Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Lee Sheftel and Doug Couleur
Page Views: 3,860 total · 26/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on May 3, 2008
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Be respectful when crossing private land. Details
Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

A fantastic, steep face route using the edges of multiple plates up a beautiful face of rock. Ascend nicely featured rock to the first and second bolts before a semi-runout section to the third bolt. From the third bolt, aim for obviously chalked up crystals under a tiny roof. Staying in balance on thin feet around the crystals is a crux.

After the fourth bolt head slightly left on more great edges and then back right for the fifth and sixth bolts. A large runout on easier terrain (5.8/5.9) to the anchor can be minimized with a .5 or .75 camlot in the horizontal crack above.

The route is listed as 5.11+/5.12- in both the Taos Rock and Falcon NM Climbing books. I suspect it's 5.12- for shorties but for people 5'10" and taller, it's 5.11+ as there are good ledges for hands and feet but if you're shorter, it probably means more intermediate moves between the good ledges.

Location

Left side of the Mosaic Wall, also known as the Painted Wall. Scramble up the water trough/slot and this route is the one right at the top of the slot. It's the second route in from the right on Painted Wall, just left of the dark streak. Look for the crystals under the tiny roof.

Protection

Six bolts with optional medium cam placement going to the anchor. Shared cold shuts anchor (you better be rappelling after cleaning it!) with three other routes on the face.

Photos