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Routes in Mosaic Rock

Baby Cakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better Red Than Dead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bienvenidos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Black Streak T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Heads T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chicken Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Clean Green Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cryin' in the Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Black Nightmare T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dirty Diagonal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dung Alley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fine Little Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Five Years After T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fried Chickens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holthouse In A Haulbag T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Holthouse to Hell T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jug or Not S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Mama Jugs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rite of Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seaman Girl T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Serpent Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Serpentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suprise-Suprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Techtonics T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Techweenie S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Threshold S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Walking Dread T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Description

The highest concentration of routes at Tres Piedras ascend the lovely south face of Mosaic Rock. This 200 ft tall cliff offers many excellent (mostly) single pitch climbs protected by bolts and gear.
Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Getting There

Walk north from the parking area, past South Rock to the base of the formation.

32 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mosaic Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dirty Diagonal
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chicken Heads
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chicken Shit
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mama Jugs
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Serpentine Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fried Chickens
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clean Green Dream
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Five Years After
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs)
Trad, Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Better Red Than Dead
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Serpent Face
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Holthouse to Hell
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Techweenie
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Techtonics
Trad, Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL)
Trad
Dirty Diagonal 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Chicken Heads 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Chicken Shit 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Mama Jugs 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Serpentine Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Fried Chickens 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Clean Green Dream 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Five Years After 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Better Red Than Dead 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Serpent Face 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Holthouse to Hell 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Techweenie 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Techtonics 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R Trad, Sport
To Bolt on Lead or Not to B… 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in Mosaic Rock »

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George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
Stuart Turner wrote:What's up with Holthouse Hallsack?
I climbed most of "Holthouse Hallsack" recently, it is pretty good. Look for fixed pins and a small right facing corner to the right of "Holthouse to Hell Direct" and about 10' to the right of a bolted line ("Bolts to Nowhere"'s direct start, called "In Step"); this is all left of "Dirty Black Nightmare". The start is down and left of the first fixed pin and looks harder than it is. A #0.4 or #0.5 cam in an overlap protects very cool moves to the pin. Easy crack climbing passes a 2nd pin, then techy 5.11+ slab climbing past 2 1/4" bolts to reach 2 fixed pins side by side in a horizontal seam. From these pins, I wasn't sure whether to go straight up on thin slab or angle right along on the seam. In either case, you'll hit the "Crying in the Rain" ramp and see another bolt up ahead. It started hailing hard so I lowered off (I suspect I was done with most of the hardest climbing, but I don't know for sure). I do hope to try it again.

That section of rock between Serpentine Crack and Clean Green Dream is pretty thin yet still steep, and contains some of the longest, most challenging climbs at TP. It's also a bit confusing, as the lines have multiple starts and variations, and both guidebooks have errors/omissions which makes it even more intimidating. Here's my take on the routes in this section of cliff, interpreted between the 2 books and some comments posted by others on this site (L->R):
-Serpent Face (5.10): left of Serpentine Crack, mislocated in one of the books
-Serpentine Crack (5.8)
-Learn to Forget (5.11-): start in Serpentine Crack, step right after 20' and follow the line of bolts closest to Serpentine Crack (you may also be able to get here from the Direct Start as well)
-Holthouse to Hell (5.11-): original route - from 15' up in Serpentine Crack, step right passing one bolt, and follow the straight-up line
-Holthouse to Hell Direct Start (5.11): begins about 10' right of Serpentine Crack with 2 obvious low bolts
-Bolts to Nowhere (5.12): begin as for "Holthouse to Hell Direct", but angle up and right passing bolts with some gear
-In Step (5.12): based on a comment on the Techweenie page, this is the direct start that joins Bolts to Nowhere, look for bolts about 10' left of Holthouse in a Haulbag
-Holthouse in a Haulbag (5.11+): look for pins, figure out how to get to them, this follows a vertical crack feature in a shallow R-facing corner
-Cryin' in the Rain (5.9): a crack system that angles left on a ramp system, listed in RC:NM; finish by joining Holthouse in a Haulbag for its last bolt, or you can cross farther left or a ramp system and finish on the next bolted line to the left, or go even farther to Holthouse to Hell's chickenheads at its end (probably easiest finish)
-Dirty Black Nightmare (5.11): 3 obvious low bolts, joins Black Streak
-Black Streak (5.10) & Clean Green Dream (5.9)

Could be wrong on some of this, will edit if I learn more. And no I didn't figure out the 5.12 slab cruxes yet. Jun 15, 2015
Anyone know if TBOL, or whatever the left most of the four steep routes is called, was also put up by Doug and Lee? The first bolt is suspect, the second is a joke, and the large flake which looks like it would eat up a big cam is a bit hollow. Its fine for climbing but putting a cam back there is about as safe as the button head below. FA party opposed to upgrading the hardware? No additional gear and same placements, just modern?
Thanks Jun 18, 2012
What's up with Holthouse Hallsack? Jan 26, 2009

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