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Mosaic Rock Climbing
Routes in Mosaic Rock
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Baby Cakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Better Red Than Dead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bienvenidos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Black Streak T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chicken Heads T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chicken Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Clean Green Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cryin' in the Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dirty Black Nightmare T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dirty Diagonal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dung Alley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fine Little Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Five Years After T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Fried Chickens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Holthouse In A Haulbag T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Holthouse to Hell T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jug or Not S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Mama Jugs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rite of Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Seaman Girl T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Serpent Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Serpentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Suprise-Suprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Techtonics T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Techweenie S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Threshold S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Walking Dread T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Elevation: | 8,366 ft |
| GPS: | 36.66, -105.982 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 22,191 total · 167/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Mathis on Jul 14, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Stephen Chojnowski |
Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver.
Details
The remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property linemountainproject.com/v/new_m… runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
A new online Tres Piedras Route Guidelamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note. From the guide:
Access Notes: Tres Piedras climbers should sign the waiverlamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… found on this page because the popular South Rock is mostly on private land, as is some of the access to the area. The landowner, requests a waiver, NO fires, no chalk and "please close any gates".
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
On August 19, 2009 the landowner stated: "Yes I still own the property, and yes I'd still like to have waivers on hand - even or perhaps especially from your organization. Only once in awhile do I have problems with climbers, mostly not picking up after themselves. My biggest gripe is that despite repeated requests, the climbers don't remove protection (edit: colored webbing, shiny hardware) from the climbing routes, which is both lazy and unattractive. Your organization could do me a big favor by doing a group climb and removing the crap that others have left on the various routes so that it is both a pristine part of the landscape, and so that each climber must figure out his own route without relying on the handiwork of others."
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property linemountainproject.com/v/new_m… runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
A new online Tres Piedras Route Guidelamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note. From the guide:
Access Notes: Tres Piedras climbers should sign the waiverlamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… found on this page because the popular South Rock is mostly on private land, as is some of the access to the area. The landowner, requests a waiver, NO fires, no chalk and "please close any gates".
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
On August 19, 2009 the landowner stated: "Yes I still own the property, and yes I'd still like to have waivers on hand - even or perhaps especially from your organization. Only once in awhile do I have problems with climbers, mostly not picking up after themselves. My biggest gripe is that despite repeated requests, the climbers don't remove protection (edit: colored webbing, shiny hardware) from the climbing routes, which is both lazy and unattractive. Your organization could do me a big favor by doing a group climb and removing the crap that others have left on the various routes so that it is both a pristine part of the landscape, and so that each climber must figure out his own route without relying on the handiwork of others."
Description [Suggest Change]
The highest concentration of routes at Tres Piedras ascend the lovely south face of Mosaic Rock. This 200 ft tall cliff offers many excellent (mostly) single pitch climbs protected by bolts and gear.
Getting There [Suggest Change]
Walk north from the parking area, past South Rock to the base of the formation.
Classic Climbing Routes at Mosaic Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
3 Comments
More About Mosaic Rock
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Guidebooks (5)
Thanks Jun 18, 2012
The Dungeon, NM
That section of rock between Serpentine Crack and Clean Green Dream is pretty thin yet still steep, and contains some of the longest, most challenging climbs at TP. It's also a bit confusing, as the lines have multiple starts and variations, and both guidebooks have errors/omissions which makes it even more intimidating. Here's my take on the routes in this section of cliff, interpreted between the 2 books and some comments posted by others on this site (L->R):
-Serpent Face (5.10): left of Serpentine Crack, mislocated in one of the books
-Serpentine Crack (5.8)
-Learn to Forget (5.11-): start in Serpentine Crack, step right after 20' and follow the line of bolts closest to Serpentine Crack (you may also be able to get here from the Direct Start as well)
-Holthouse to Hell (5.11-): original route - from 15' up in Serpentine Crack, step right passing one bolt, and follow the straight-up line
-Holthouse to Hell Direct Start (5.11): begins about 10' right of Serpentine Crack with 2 obvious low bolts
-Bolts to Nowhere (5.12): begin as for "Holthouse to Hell Direct", but angle up and right passing bolts with some gear
-In Step (5.12): based on a comment on the Techweenie page, this is the direct start that joins Bolts to Nowhere, look for bolts about 10' left of Holthouse in a Haulbag
-Holthouse in a Haulbag (5.11+): look for pins, figure out how to get to them, this follows a vertical crack feature in a shallow R-facing corner
-Cryin' in the Rain (5.9): a crack system that angles left on a ramp system, listed in RC:NM; finish by joining Holthouse in a Haulbag for its last bolt, or you can cross farther left or a ramp system and finish on the next bolted line to the left, or go even farther to Holthouse to Hell's chickenheads at its end (probably easiest finish)
-Dirty Black Nightmare (5.11): 3 obvious low bolts, joins Black Streak
-Black Streak (5.10) & Clean Green Dream (5.9)
Could be wrong on some of this, will edit if I learn more. And no I didn't figure out the 5.12 slab cruxes yet. Jun 15, 2015