Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 401 total · 3/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Apr 4, 2008
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Be respectful when crossing private land. Details

Description

Nearly every climb from the middle to the right side of Mosaic Rock is excellent, Walking Dread included. Like Bienvenidos and many others at TP, it is well protected on the crux sections, but has runout on easier terrain.

The first bolt is up high. You can get to it by climbing straight up (harder, 11c?), or from the right side (5.10) on good flakes, starting just a little to the left of Bienvenidos. Make an awkward clip of bolt 2 from a sidepull to its right. I found that to move past the second bolt I needed to move left to the arete to the left and pull on small knobs to reach a right-slanting rail. This seemed hard for 5.10c, but I'd be hesitant to call this solid 5.11 either, but the pro is a good bolt in the right place. After the 3rd bolt, angle up and right on classic TP face climbing in the same vein as the others in the area- 5.8 or 5.9 knobs with a lot of space between gear in occasional diagonal cracks and a couple of bolts to guide your way to the top.

The climb is rated as 5.10c in RCNM (with the start from the right side) and 5.11c in Taos Rock (presumably climbing straight up at the bottom).

Location

This climb is the bolted line left of Bienvenidos and about 20' right of Clean Green Dream

Protection

Cams up to 1" (red camalot) and nuts. The cruxes are bolt protected; 5 bolts total.
At the top, traverse right to the 2-bolt anchor/rappel station for Bienvenidos (rap from this with 1 60m rope, or walk off farther right if you prefer).

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