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Routes in Mosaic Rock
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Areted Development T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Baby Cakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Better Red Than Dead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bienvenidos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Black Cornflakes S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Black Streak T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bleeds No More T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Brother Shawn and Sister Beth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chicken Heads T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chicken Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Clean Green Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cryin' in the Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dirty Black Nightmare T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dirty Diagonal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Doctor Yousuf's Gang S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dung Alley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fine Little Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Five Years After T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Forever and a Day T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fried Chickens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Holthouse In A Haulbag T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Holthouse to Hell T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Jug or Not S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mama Jugs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Mamma Gnamma T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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MSMACITU (Matt Samet, Most Awesome Climber In The Universe) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rite of Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Safety First T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Seaman Girl T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Serpent Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Serpentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Suprise-Suprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Techtonics T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Techweenie S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Threshold S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Toothy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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True Colors S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unknown S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Walking Dread T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,060 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Kei Davis on Sep 23, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Seasonal Raptor Nesting.
Details
The remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line mountainproject.com/v/new_m… runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
An online Tres Piedras Route Guide lamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.
The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
Seasonal Raptor Nesting:
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line mountainproject.com/v/new_m… runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
An online Tres Piedras Route Guide lamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.
The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
Seasonal Raptor Nesting:
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
Description
[This is a very slightly edited version of the beta Dave Dogruel gave me. Dave asked for a disclaimer: "my memory of climbing routes is not perfect." Dave updated the photo for Dung Alley, his route is the one on the right in bright orange.]
The route is just left of the obvious dead/broken tree stump coming out of the rock, about 5 feet off the ground.
The first 20 feet is pure run-out friction of 5.7, maybe with a 5.8 move or two. A fall here would be a slide and a belayer could easily catch the leader as he/she might slide back to the ground. (You can also walk up the crack that the tree stump is in.) There is a good boulder to sling at the base for an anchor for a belayer.
One could probably protect the horizontal crack that intersects the tree stump with a flex-stem small cam, but I preferred to stuff one into the vertical crack to the left end of the horizontal crack. I followed the crack up the right side of the "buttress" to the little tuft of grass seen in the picture. The grass is still there and I recall using the spot right above the grass as a place for both feet while I placed a cam in the crack just above the stance. I then veered a bit left, working along the big boilerplates, some of them a bit hollow-sounding so I didn't yard on them very vigorously. You can go right or left around the big boilerplate flake in the "lichen band" in the picture; I think I did it both ways over two climbs and the climbing seemed the same either way. Above this big boilerplate, there are a few places to protect in cracks with small cams and mid-sized nuts in this area, and there are two solid flakes (one small, one large) that are great to sling for pro. Above this large boilerplate, you can look up and to the right and see a piece of static line that runs through at least one bolt hanger (I didn't actually see the second hanger but it looked like there was one based on how the static line was hanging) as the rap anchor if you are using a 50 meter rope. Since I had a 60m, I continued climbing toward the left, where you can now see the two bolt hangers (no chains or other gear) near the top, indicated by the two red Xs in the picture. After clipping one of them, I explored the top of the route, delighted to find a nice fat crack about 10 feet back from the lip at the top for a fine anchor with several #3 to #3.5 cams and a place for a large nut or two. No problem reaching and tying into the anchor I made with a 60m rope. I would estimate there were about 20 feet of spare rope with my belayer.
I would rate the climb a solid 5.7, with fairly consistent moves once you are past the first vertical crack. There is lots of lichen on the climb, but I thought there were plenty of solid hand and footholds on good features that I didn't worry about the lichen. I suspect one could also climb more to the right from the start and end up in line with the anchor identified as the one for Summer Dreams (with the piece of static line), but I think the route I took was more fun, still safe and gained an additional 30 feet or so of climbing. It is also obvious that few people climb any parts of this route since there was no chalk and plenty of lichen.
The path to the descent gully is to head due west off the top for about 50 feet, then drop down left (to the south) in the obvious spot to the descent gully - it is hard to miss.
You can't really see any of the anchor bolts from the ground, or at least I couldn't see any of them.
The route is just left of the obvious dead/broken tree stump coming out of the rock, about 5 feet off the ground.
The first 20 feet is pure run-out friction of 5.7, maybe with a 5.8 move or two. A fall here would be a slide and a belayer could easily catch the leader as he/she might slide back to the ground. (You can also walk up the crack that the tree stump is in.) There is a good boulder to sling at the base for an anchor for a belayer.
One could probably protect the horizontal crack that intersects the tree stump with a flex-stem small cam, but I preferred to stuff one into the vertical crack to the left end of the horizontal crack. I followed the crack up the right side of the "buttress" to the little tuft of grass seen in the picture. The grass is still there and I recall using the spot right above the grass as a place for both feet while I placed a cam in the crack just above the stance. I then veered a bit left, working along the big boilerplates, some of them a bit hollow-sounding so I didn't yard on them very vigorously. You can go right or left around the big boilerplate flake in the "lichen band" in the picture; I think I did it both ways over two climbs and the climbing seemed the same either way. Above this big boilerplate, there are a few places to protect in cracks with small cams and mid-sized nuts in this area, and there are two solid flakes (one small, one large) that are great to sling for pro. Above this large boilerplate, you can look up and to the right and see a piece of static line that runs through at least one bolt hanger (I didn't actually see the second hanger but it looked like there was one based on how the static line was hanging) as the rap anchor if you are using a 50 meter rope. Since I had a 60m, I continued climbing toward the left, where you can now see the two bolt hangers (no chains or other gear) near the top, indicated by the two red Xs in the picture. After clipping one of them, I explored the top of the route, delighted to find a nice fat crack about 10 feet back from the lip at the top for a fine anchor with several #3 to #3.5 cams and a place for a large nut or two. No problem reaching and tying into the anchor I made with a 60m rope. I would estimate there were about 20 feet of spare rope with my belayer.
I would rate the climb a solid 5.7, with fairly consistent moves once you are past the first vertical crack. There is lots of lichen on the climb, but I thought there were plenty of solid hand and footholds on good features that I didn't worry about the lichen. I suspect one could also climb more to the right from the start and end up in line with the anchor identified as the one for Summer Dreams (with the piece of static line), but I think the route I took was more fun, still safe and gained an additional 30 feet or so of climbing. It is also obvious that few people climb any parts of this route since there was no chalk and plenty of lichen.
The path to the descent gully is to head due west off the top for about 50 feet, then drop down left (to the south) in the obvious spot to the descent gully - it is hard to miss.
You can't really see any of the anchor bolts from the ground, or at least I couldn't see any of them.
Location
This climb is on the northeast corner of Mosaic Rock, around the corner from the descent gully. There's a stump from a dead/broken tree coming out of a horizontal crack at the start.
A 2-bolt anchor [with burly chains] is at the top of the interesting climbing, (with so many flakes, I was hesitant to rappel and scrambled off the top and down the standard descent after lowering my partner).
A 2-bolt anchor [with burly chains] is at the top of the interesting climbing, (with so many flakes, I was hesitant to rappel and scrambled off the top and down the standard descent after lowering my partner).
Protection
1 set nuts, 1-2 sets cams to 3". A 2-bolt anchor is at the top--not at the location marked "approx. location of Summer Dreams anchor" in the photo, but as shown for Dung Alley. (9/09: Dennis Jackson said he believes this to be the Summer Dreams route, didn't know which route these anchors further right are intended to service.)
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