Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft (30 m)|
|Page Views:||354 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Wenker on Sep 2, 2008|
|Admins:||Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property linemountainproject.com/v/new_m… runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
An online Tres Piedras Route Guidelamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.
Access Notes: Tres Piedras climbers should sign the waiverlamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… found on this page because the popular South Rock is mostly on private land, as is some of the access to the area. The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
On July 1, 2020, the New Mexico state governor issued an executive order (cv.nmhealth.org/wp-content/…) requiring all visitors from out of state to self-isolate or self-quarantine for a period of at least 14 days from the date of their entry into the State of New Mexico or for the duration of their presence in the State, whichever is shorter. The terms "self-isolate" or "self-quarantine" refer the voluntary physical separation of a person or group of people in a residence or other place of lodging. Any person who is self-isolating or self-quarantining may only leave a residence or place of lodging to receive medical care and should not allow others into the residence or place of lodging except for those providing medical care, emergency response, or other individuals designated by the New Mexico Department of Health.
The executive order also closes all New Mexico State Parks to non-NM residents.
This Executive Order shall take effect on July 1, 2020 and shall remain in effect through the duration of the public health emergency declared in Executive Order 2020-004 and any extensions of that emergency declaration or until it is rescinded.
Additionally, NM state guidance requires all persons to wear a mask anytime they are out in public, including outdoor recreation areas.
This route is not described in any of the modern guides, but is noted in the old-time guide. However, if you carefully read Jackson's (2006) description of Summer Dreams and compare it to the old-time guide's description of that same route, I think Jackson actually directs the climber to start at the base of Summer Dreams and to top out on Dung Alley's anchors instead of the actual top of Summer Dreams (which appears to have a bolted anchor about 20 feet right and 10 feet below Dung Alley's anchor, see the MP.com beta photo).
I'm pretty sure this is the correct detached buttress mentioned in the old guide, because of its close proximity to Summer Dreams, which is also described in the old-time guide. If this offwidth route is not Dung Alley, someone let me know.
Two fairly new bolts provide an anchor located at a good stance that lies about 10 feet below the top of the climb. I don't know if you can rap all the way to the ground from this point. I have only ever climbed past the bolts to the top of the formation and walked off the standard descent. I'm not convinced these bolts were necessary, because it's an easy thing to summit and walk off. However, their placement near the top of the climb does allow good communication with the second climber, which might be greatly impeded if you top out and build a belay back from the edge.
A single set of cams to #6 would suffice, if you don't mind walking the #6 up with you. Two #4s or 5s would be reassuring in places, though. Hand-sized cams will work once you get out of the offwidth.
As of August 2008 there was some tatty sling and cord, with a single screw-link, hung on the anchor bolts.