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Routes in Mosaic Rock

Baby Cakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better Red Than Dead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bienvenidos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Black Streak T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Heads T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chicken Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Clean Green Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cryin' in the Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Black Nightmare T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dirty Diagonal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dung Alley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fine Little Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Five Years After T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fried Chickens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holthouse In A Haulbag T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Holthouse to Hell T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jug or Not S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Mama Jugs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rite of Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seaman Girl T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Serpent Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Serpentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suprise-Suprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Techtonics T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Techweenie S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Threshold S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Walking Dread T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 110 total, 1/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Aug 16, 2010
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Start up a slab with some underclings to a short, wide, dirt-filled runnel. Continue up to a zig-zag crack. Sort of runout at the start, but not too bad for a solid 5.7 leader. Once the rope is up, it's easy to TR.

This crack is right of the route that the modern guidebooks and most people call Summer Dreams so I came up with this stupid punny name (let me know if it has a real name).

Editorial: I think that this line may actually be Summer Dreams because it more closely resembles a "crack with good intentions" (as described in the 1981 guide) than the route to the left. In the 1984 "Tao's Rock II" guide, Summer Dreams is described as: "just to the North of DUNG ALLEY, note crack with small chimney, climb it, exit East", which matches this crack pretty well. The 1991 "Taos Rock III" guide describes Summer Dreams as a "Crack and face climb around the corner from #25 [i.e., Dung Alley]." So, who knows.....

Location

This is the second route to the right of the large detached pillar at the northeastern corner of Mosaic Rock.

Protection

Standard TP rack of single cams & nuts. A monstrous chained anchor awaits at the top, slightly to the left.

Photos

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