Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 270 total · 2/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Aug 16, 2010 with improvements by Anna Brown
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Start up a slab with some underclings to a short, wide, dirt-filled runnel. Continue up to a zig-zag crack. Sort of runout at the start, but not too bad for a solid 5.7 leader. Once the rope is up, it's easy to TR.

This crack is right of the route that the modern guidebooks and most people call Summer Dreams so I came up with this stupid punny name (let me know if it has a real name).

Editorial: I think that this line may actually be Summer Dreams because it more closely resembles a "crack with good intentions" (as described in the 1981 guide) than the route to the left. In the 1984 "Tao's Rock II" guide, Summer Dreams is described as: "just to the North of DUNG ALLEY, note crack with small chimney, climb it, exit East", which matches this crack pretty well. The 1991 "Taos Rock III" guide describes Summer Dreams as a "Crack and face climb around the corner from #25 [i.e., Dung Alley]." So, who knows.....

Location

This is the second route to the right of the large detached pillar at the northeastern corner of Mosaic Rock. It's to the right of the dead/broken tree stump coming out of the crack in the rock.

Protection

Standard TP rack of single cams & nuts. A monstrous chained anchor awaits at the top, slightly to the left.

Photos