Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Doug Couleur / Lee Sheftel
Page Views: 485 total · 6/month
Shared By: George Perkins on May 12, 2012
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

Thin face climbing characterizes this climb, which follows a green streak below the tree. Stay just left of the bolt line past the first 2 bolts. The crux is a thin/reachy section just after bolt 2. After this, move right, clip the last two bolts, and work up courage for the last 20' to the tree, which turns out to be easier than it appears. The guidebooks show that one could continue past the tree up and left to the bolted anchor for Techweenie (bring gear if doing so), but I can't think of a compelling reason to do this.

Though this is a worthwhile climb, a bit of flaky grunge to the right, and the temptation of significantly easier climbing to the left in the lower half detract, to some extent.

The old guide from the late 1970s(?) notes some people climbed as far as the tree, not sure on exactly how, but didn't continue to the top (THE MOSAIC- unfinished - probable 5.11). This would have been before the modern version of the climb was bolted. The Techweenie comments has some info: apparently there were some slings on the tree, the comments on that page suggest that Holthouse (or Todd Skinner?) may have gotten up there.

Location

The line to the tree on the steep section of Mosaic Wall, just left of Dirty Diagonal.

Protection

4 bolts to a tree with slings.

Photos

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Doug or Lee,
Any opinion on upgrading the anchor? The tree is ok, but the slings are ugly and the tree is not going to last forever. I actually think this route is better than the two stars given, but what do I know. Anyway, how about a nice modern anchor up there. Would you guys be opposed?
Thanks for the nice lines. This and the three others to the left are my favorite routes at Tres. Jun 18, 2012
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.12- PG13
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
  5.12- PG13
There were no quick links, only a sling on the tree when I topped out. I elected to go left using a roller and was able to get to the 11 + to the left and clip a bolt without any additional gear. The Traverse was reasonable. The route is certainly worthy of an anchor on its own. Definitely harder than the routes to the left. I did however place a marginal nut to protect the last 20 feet to the bush. That run-out seemed sketchy. May 27, 2018