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Routes in 5.8 Crag

5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arm and Hammer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Asbury Park S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blue Spotted Tail TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blueballs at Christmas T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bolt And Run S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central Park TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chimney of Doom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Granny's Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
License to Ill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Milksnake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milktoast S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moe Pup Sensation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only a Crow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pump Up the Volume S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Romancing The Snake T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Romancing the Stone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Pilot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Snake Skin Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Terrace, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Tom Bowker, 1986
Page Views: 1,999 total, 15/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Feb 26, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area. Details

Description

Raven is one of the more obscure routes in the area and does not see a lot of traffic. The start is a little vegetated, but it's not too bad. Climb the dirty corner past a couple of bolts and a pin (back up with a medium stopper). From the pin, make some awkward moves up on to a large, flat ledge and clip the next bolt. Continue straight up the slightly overhanging headwall. The crux is clipping the bolt at the top of the headwall (if you blow the clip, you'll hit the ledge). Mantle through a couple more awkward ledges and then work right to the anchors. Strange climb, but worthwhile.

Location

Raven is located on the right side of 5.8 crag. Scramble up the slope to the top of the formation and look for a climb with six bolts that shoots straight to the top. This is Only a Crow (5.10c) and shares anchors with Raven. Head back down the slope and location a large, dirty corner the heads up and right, with a couple of bolts visible from the ground. Raven starts up the corner.

Protection

8 bolts and a pin to Quick Clip anchors.
Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
Super well protected, totally fun and fine! Oct 17, 2015
karl vochatzer
Cedar City, UT
 
karl vochatzer   Cedar City, UT
 
Horrible protection for a sport route, and what protection was there was runout and poorly chosen for the fall zones if the leader fell at any point. Chalk it up to being done in the 1980s, I guess. Otherwise, the actually climbing part was fairly fun to do. Yes, do unclip the horribly placed piton up and out near the edge of the ramp after clipping the head wall bolt. Jul 16, 2013
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
  5.8 PG13
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
  5.8 PG13
I thought this was an enjoyable and unique climb. There were some sketchy spots and plenty of rope drag for sure. Do not try to clean this after your lead, have someone follow and clean. It was a nightmare to clean from the top. Jul 8, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8
I did this route for the first time today and found it surprisingly enjoyable.

Be care not to blow any clips if you do it will be a painful for sure, also there is a lot of rope drag if you back clean the pin it will eliminate a lot of the rope drag. May 5, 2010