Type: Sport
FA: Tom Bowker, 1986
Page Views: 2,205 total · 15/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Feb 26, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


87 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area. Details

Description

Raven is one of the more obscure routes in the area and does not see a lot of traffic. The start is a little vegetated, but it's not too bad. Climb the dirty corner past a couple of bolts and a pin (back up with a medium stopper). From the pin, make some awkward moves up on to a large, flat ledge and clip the next bolt. Continue straight up the slightly overhanging headwall. The crux is clipping the bolt at the top of the headwall (if you blow the clip, you'll hit the ledge). Mantle through a couple more awkward ledges and then work right to the anchors. Strange climb, but worthwhile.

Location

Raven is located on the right side of 5.8 crag. Scramble up the slope to the top of the formation and look for a climb with six bolts that shoots straight to the top. This is Only a Crow (5.10c) and shares anchors with Raven. Head back down the slope and location a large, dirty corner the heads up and right, with a couple of bolts visible from the ground. Raven starts up the corner.

Protection

8 bolts and a pin to Quick Clip anchors.

Photos

matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8
I did this route for the first time today and found it surprisingly enjoyable.

Be care not to blow any clips if you do it will be a painful for sure, also there is a lot of rope drag if you back clean the pin it will eliminate a lot of the rope drag. May 5, 2010
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
  5.8 PG13
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
  5.8 PG13
I thought this was an enjoyable and unique climb. There were some sketchy spots and plenty of rope drag for sure. Do not try to clean this after your lead, have someone follow and clean. It was a nightmare to clean from the top. Jul 8, 2013
karl vochatzer
Cedar City, UT
 
karl vochatzer   Cedar City, UT
 
Horrible protection for a sport route, and what protection was there was runout and poorly chosen for the fall zones if the leader fell at any point. Chalk it up to being done in the 1980s, I guess. Otherwise, the actually climbing part was fairly fun to do. Yes, do unclip the horribly placed piton up and out near the edge of the ramp after clipping the head wall bolt. Jul 16, 2013
Super well protected, totally fun and fine! Oct 17, 2015