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Routes in 5.8 Crag

5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arm and Hammer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Asbury Park S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blue Spotted Tail TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blueballs at Christmas T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bolt And Run S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central Park TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chimney of Doom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Granny's Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
License to Ill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Milksnake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milktoast S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moe Pup Sensation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only a Crow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pump Up the Volume S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Romancing The Snake T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Romancing the Stone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Pilot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Snake Skin Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Terrace, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,120 total, 9/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 16, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area. Details

Description

Climb the first 4 bolts of Romancing the Stone then break left in to the upper crack of Milksnake (5.10c) and finish with trad gear. This finish is less pumpy and a little more direct than the right hand traverse on Romancing the Stone. Climb up to the Milksnake anchors (they are set back so extend them for lowering or toproping). This is a better choice of TR climb than the regular Romancing due to the more direct line so you don't have to bother with directionals and all that.

Location

Climb Romancing to the 4th bolt and head left and up the crack.

Protection

4 bolts, a small trad rack to anchors. Bring slings to extend the anchors.

Photos

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matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10b/c
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10b/c
I was told that this was actually the original finish to Romancing the Stone. Anyone have an information on this? Apr 6, 2009