Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 5.8 Crag

5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arm and Hammer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Asbury Park S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blue Spotted Tail TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blueballs at Christmas T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bolt And Run S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central Park TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chimney of Doom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Granny's Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
License to Ill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Milksnake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milktoast S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moe Pup Sensation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only a Crow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pump Up the Volume S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Romancing The Snake T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Romancing the Stone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Pilot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Snake Skin Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Terrace, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,720 total, 43/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 11, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


92 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Note: New route moratorium area. Details

Description

Yes, that's right. It's called the 5.8 Crack by the Road, but it is in fact 5.7. I can't explain it.

However this is a really fun climb. I think it's the most fun moderate route at this crag. Very few people bring trad gear to Rumney, so on a busy day I like to bring a small selection of gear, and I can get on all kinds of fun routes while the strict sporty folk stand in line for the classics.

What can I say? It's a crack. Follow it and have fun. Mostly hand sized crack with some face holds.

Location

Just left of Romancing the Stone, there is a set of stairs. Go up the stairs and turn right, you are there.

Protection

Bring a standard rack. Ring bolt anchor.
Eli
Lives in a truck
  5.7
Eli   Lives in a truck
  5.7
Did not place anything larger than a #2, this climb protects pretty well and doubles of #1 and #2 C4s (or equivalent) are helpful. Apr 8, 2015
caesar.salad
earth
  5.7
caesar.salad   earth
  5.7
first trad lead ever. dope shit. almost didn't bring my #4, glad I did. crux is about 1/3 of the way up, just getting over this weird bulge. Oct 14, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
This was my third trad lead ever. Much thanks to the nice Quebecois dude who let me borrow a couple C4s so I could have doubles and be a wimp. I sewed it up. Awesome times. Apr 21, 2013
Devin Krevetski
Northfield, VT
 
Devin Krevetski   Northfield, VT
 
I swear this whole route could be protected with nothing but #2 camalots. I brought 2 with me and leap frogged both at least once each. Jul 23, 2012
Brunt Tornton   NH
 
This climb is great fun. If you're like me and don't have a trad rack, worry not. There are some old anchors like 20 feet above the ones for this climb which one can use to get down to it and then TR. Dec 5, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
haha, not to worry after working at it another day with a nut tool i came back with a sawzall and a beefy blade which was the cause of the broken lobes :) Aug 16, 2010
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
Lee,
Do you know exactly why the lobes on this thing are broken? Did you purposely break it to get it out, or did it break simply from you working on it to get it out? My initial reaction, especially given other Link-cam breakages, is 'Yikes'. I mean, I have spent some time pounding and pulling on booty TCUs and Camalots a lot smaller than this, and I never broke anything except a few trigger wires. Aug 16, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Here lies the remains of the wasted link cam that has been hopelessly stuck on 5.8 crack by the road for too long... Aug 16, 2010
maineah
Maine
  5.6
maineah   Maine
  5.6
Felt more like 5.6, but it's a really fun route. The crack offers perfect cam placements. Jan 26, 2010
Pal Pocsi
Budapest, Hungary
Pal Pocsi   Budapest, Hungary
Super fun route. I used three cams (#1-3 Camalots) but wish I had doubles of a couple of these. I ran out the end a little bit but that's the easy section. Oct 18, 2009