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Routes in 5.8 Crag

5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arm and Hammer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Asbury Park S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blue Spotted Tail TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blueballs at Christmas T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Bolt And Run S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central Park TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chimney of Doom T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Granny's Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
License to Ill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Milksnake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milktoast S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moe Pup Sensation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only a Crow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pump Up the Volume S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Romancing The Snake T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Romancing the Stone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Pilot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Snake Skin Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Terrace, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 710 total · 9/month
Shared By: matthewWallace on Feb 13, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area. Details

Description

An interesting top-rope climb that climbs the arete just left of Bolt and Run. Envisioned one fall by my good friend Brent, we climbed it and found it very enjoyable.

Start of the ground with a few easy moves and then hit the crux of the route at about the 15 foot mark. The crux involves a high step and small or awkward holds, what makes it tough is the foot you need to stand up on is hard to see and easy to forget about, pumping you out. From here just continue climbing the arete on 5.9ish ground to the anchors.

This route is an obvious line because the rope hangs right over the arete after lowering off Bolt and Run 5.9. Because of that we believe it has been done before, so if you have a name for it or any info let me know.

The route is a bit of an eliminate... The arete you climb is the right side of the Chimney of Doom. The left side of the chimney is off, so dont stem across the chimney stay true to the arete.

Location

The arete left of Bolt and Run 5.9+

Protection

TR'ed of the anchors of Bolt and Run.

Photos

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matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
We had a hard time with a consensus grade on this so please climb it and give us your opinion! Feb 13, 2012

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