Type: Trad
FA: Jim Shimberg 1994
Page Views: 1,863 total · 11/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 23, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area. Details

Description

Blueballs is a super committing lead on very small gear for the first 40-50 feet. Most people toprope it, and it's probably a good thing because not everyone has the skills and cool head that is required to climb a hard R rated route like this. I worked it out on toprope first, then led it with one piece of gear (a purple TCU) and a few draws for the bolts at the top. I hear the TCU is bomber, but I don't wish to test it.

Starting to the right of the classic, Romancing the Stone (5.10c), climb the face on tiny crimps eventually meeting up with Romancing at its right trending traverse, at which point you will have some bolts to clip. Crimpy, crimpy, crimpy.

Location

Climb the face just right of Romancing the Stone (5.10c).

Protection

A few draws and small gear, I used a purple TCU in a letter box slot about half way up the face section. I hear you can get other stuff in too, such as micro wires, but I didn't see them.

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