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Routes in 5.8 Crag

5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arm and Hammer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Asbury Park S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blue Spotted Tail TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blueballs at Christmas T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Bolt And Run S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central Park TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chimney of Doom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Granny's Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
License to Ill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Milksnake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milktoast S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moe Pup Sensation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only a Crow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pump Up the Volume S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Romancing The Snake T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Romancing the Stone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Pilot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Snake Skin Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Terrace, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport
FA: Glenn Cilley 1991
Page Views: 5,290 total · 39/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 21, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area. Details

Description [Edit]

Climb up and over a few steep bulges trending left. Fun climbing leads to a confounding crux that most people solve by moving left and using a few holds on the corner. If you climb this section directly, it might bump up the grade a smidge. But it is more fun to do it at 5.9. The crux involves a big move to an incut crimp that is often tick-marked.

Being the only 5.9 at the crag, it is also the best 5.9 at the crag so make sure you climb it.

Location [Edit]

Start in the same spot as The 5.8 Crack by the Road (5.7), and follow the bolts to the left up the steep face.

Protection [Edit]

6 bolts to anchors (quick clips, I think).
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
It looks so slabby from the bottom, but doesnt feel that way while you're on it... maybe the lack of handholds. Overall, a nice Rumney-esque technique-requisite route. Jul 16, 2009
Graham O.  
 
Ha I thought it was confusing because there were too many holds! Aug 5, 2016
Devin Krevetski
Northfield, VT
 
Devin Krevetski   Northfield, VT
 
Climbed it for the first time in a while, I don't remember so many chopped bolts on it, maybe I just missed them the first few times. Mar 29, 2018

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