Type: Sport
FA: Glenn Cilley 1991
Page Views: 5,745 total · 40/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 21, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


272 Opinions

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area. Details

Description

Climb up and over a few steep bulges trending left. Fun climbing leads to a confounding crux that most people solve by moving left and using a few holds on the corner. If you climb this section directly, it might bump up the grade a smidge. But it is more fun to do it at 5.9. The crux involves a big move to an incut crimp that is often tick-marked.

Being the only 5.9 at the crag, it is also the best 5.9 at the crag so make sure you climb it.

Location

Start in the same spot as The 5.8 Crack by the Road (5.7), and follow the bolts to the left up the steep face.

Protection

6 bolts to anchors (quick clips, I think).
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
It looks so slabby from the bottom, but doesnt feel that way while you're on it... maybe the lack of handholds. Overall, a nice Rumney-esque technique-requisite route. Jul 16, 2009
Graham O.  
 
Ha I thought it was confusing because there were too many holds! Aug 5, 2016
Devin Krevetski
Northfield, VT
 
Devin Krevetski   Northfield, VT
 
Climbed it for the first time in a while, I don't remember so many chopped bolts on it, maybe I just missed them the first few times. Mar 29, 2018