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Routes in 5.8 Crag

5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arm and Hammer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Asbury Park S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blue Spotted Tail TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blueballs at Christmas T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bolt And Run S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central Park TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chimney of Doom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Granny's Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
License to Ill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Milksnake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milktoast S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moe Pup Sensation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only a Crow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pump Up the Volume S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Romancing The Snake T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Romancing the Stone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Pilot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Snake Skin Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Terrace, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Tom Armstrong, 1988
Page Views: 3,489 total, 26/month
Shared By: Patrick Bagley on Oct 26, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area. Details

Description

The business of Arm and Hammer is definitely crimps, however a the slabby exit moves will be memorable nonetheless. Some of the hardest moves are right off the ground, so stick clip that first bolt!

Location

This route is towards the right end of 5.8 Crag. A+H is just to the right of sky pilot which stands out because it is only bolted to the halfway point. edit- Sky is now all bolted

Protection

5 bolts. 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

peterfogg  
 
I got on this and Sky Pilot this weekend and absolutely adored both of them -- any recommendations for routes of a similar style at any grade would be much appreciated. Aug 29, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
updated jeff... so demanding :P Aug 18, 2013
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Great route with some tough moves along the way. A fun section just before the anchors as well. Please update the "location" part of this description - there are 3 or 4 routes up hill from this. :) Aug 18, 2013
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I haven't climbed enough 11s to chime in on the grade discussion...but this route is great and safely bolted! Get on it and don't be intimidated, the stances for all the bolts are good. and the movement is fantastic! Straight-forward fun crimping Jul 17, 2013
Rajiv Ayyangar
Portland, ME
  5.11b
Rajiv Ayyangar   Portland, ME
  5.11b
Dude, change your rating then. Or get back here and climb this rig if you actually haven't. Basically, get back here. Apr 13, 2012
chris deulen
Castle Rock
  5.11d
chris deulen   Castle Rock
  5.11d
Whoops, years later, guess I was on Pump Up The Volume. Yeah, this thing's prolly 11a... Apr 12, 2012
Daniel Reeves
Seattle, WA
Daniel Reeves   Seattle, WA
I think this would be fine at 11b although the guidebook 11c made me feel good. The crimp moves on social distortion are MUCH harder, and venus is a league above that. Sep 23, 2011
Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
Originally this route had ONE bolt. I forget who placed it. Tom Armstrong dialed it on TR then led it then retro bolted it for the rest of us. Oct 31, 2010
S. Neoh  
For me, this route is harder than Sky Pilot for sure. Believe it or not, this route was rated 11a for years BITD. Yeah, Tom grades old-school. :) FYI - I was told the name A & H alludes to hand drilling the holes for the original bolts. Common practice and hard work BITD.
The route is a crimpers delight. Aug 26, 2010
Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
Business is indeed at the bottom. Trend left past the third bolt even though it looks better to the right. FWIW, the new guide has this at .11c Apr 4, 2010
christopher adams  
  5.11c
The hold that was used to clip the first bolt broke off a few years ago (see obvious dark spot directly below first bolt). It was much better than the micro crimps afforded now, and served as a much better lock off point to the next moves, as well as a better foothold.

In my opinion, it's closer to 11c now. Jul 6, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Ive done it every year for the last 5, 6, 7 years and didnt notice any change... but yeah you do have to work for it mostly down low on the micro crimps... and i havent done it this year yet so we shall see... Apr 28, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I heard that something broke on this. I haven't been on it in a couple of years (and at that time 11b felt right). Does anyone have more info about a possible broken hold? Apr 28, 2009
chris deulen
Castle Rock
  5.11d
chris deulen   Castle Rock
  5.11d
There is no way on God's green earth that this thing is 11b! If Tropicana is 11a, this thing is at least 11d. Maybe bc the FA was in 1988? Not sure, but way harder than the suggested grade. I've been on 12s easier than this thing. That said, the movement on this route is amazing and fun. Apr 28, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Thanks I feel stupid for not seeing that haha Apr 6, 2009
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Check out that Lee annotated. Apr 6, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
anymore information about location of this route because the second bolted line coming down is The Raven(5.8)... is it just left of The Raven? Apr 6, 2009