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Routes in 5.8 Crag

5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arm and Hammer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Asbury Park S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blue Spotted Tail TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blueballs at Christmas T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bolt And Run S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central Park TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chimney of Doom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Granny's Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
License to Ill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Milksnake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milktoast S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moe Pup Sensation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only a Crow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pump Up the Volume S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Romancing The Snake T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Romancing the Stone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Pilot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Snake Skin Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Terrace, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: Jim Shimberg 1989
Page Views: 1,671 total, 13/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 23, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Note: New route moratorium area. Details

Description

Few people have bothered with this dirty, wet, mossy, ugly, cobweb infested, chimney. I've done it twice, haha. I like that sort of thing.

Out of respect for the average climber, I only gave it one star; however, if you are in to the kind of climbing described above you will love it.

Chimney up, passing a large chock stone and top out returning to the beautiful world above.

Location

Just left of the 5.8 Crack by the Road, there is a dirty chimney.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Very easy climb, more like a 5.6. Protects surprisingly well, too. You'll plug three or four pieces and then it's over. Use the Bolt and Run anchor. Jul 22, 2017
Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
Use a directional at the top for your second, and just put some draws on the anchor to the right and lower off. Pretty fun, bring some long draws, big nuts, and cams up to 3". Oct 18, 2015
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Is there a tree at the top? or do you come down from the anchors to the right? Aug 18, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Walk off? Apr 6, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
there isnt too much pro but that is pretty common for a chimney... basicly you work your pro around the chockstones... Dec 9, 2008
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
where are the placements on this? Dec 8, 2008