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Routes in 5.8 Crag

5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arm and Hammer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Asbury Park S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blue Spotted Tail TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blueballs at Christmas T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Bolt And Run S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central Park TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chimney of Doom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Granny's Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
License to Ill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Milksnake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milktoast S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moe Pup Sensation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only a Crow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pump Up the Volume S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Romancing The Snake T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Romancing the Stone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Pilot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Snake Skin Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Terrace, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport
FA: Steve Damboise 5/88
Page Views: 4,113 total · 29/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 8, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area. Details

Description

An appropriately named route, fighting the pump is the red point crux as each move tends to be easier than the last, but by the end of the climb, you could swear that the moves are getting harder. The route starts from a ledge that heads out left from the start of Sky Pilot (5.11b). Stick clip the first bolt and climb right in to the crux, a sequency series of tiny crimps and footwork leading to better holds and less technical climbing, but you will get pumped unless you are a tough girl (or boy).

It was one of my first 5.12b's, and I think it is a good first climb of the grade.

Location

In the middle of the steep right hand side of the crag. Start in the middle of the ledge.

Protection

4 bolts to lower offs.

Photos

Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Pump Up is basically your cookie-cutter sport route. It's not too long, not too short and it is slightly overhanging with a distinct crux and pumpy climbing after.

I think at any other area, Pump Up would rate four stars, but at Rumney, when compared to such classics as Techno, Whip Tide, Restless, and Flesh for Lulu, I can't see giving this that many stars. Feb 18, 2007
Colonel Sandbag
Boston, MA
5.11c/d
Colonel Sandbag   Boston, MA
5.11c/d
Is that small shelf that is to the left and slightly below the first bolt off route? Sep 12, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b
Nothing is "off route" if you can reach the bolts from it. Hope that helps. Sep 14, 2016
Kevin Ran
Brooklyn, NY
Kevin Ran   Brooklyn, NY
Personally loved this route. Extremely boulder-y start, and there are multiple ways to go through the crux (I tried it after some rain, was able to try multiple ways of getting through the crux even with the holds being a bit wet). The final sequences are fairly straightforward with room for some dancing of feet.

Not a classic but, assuming that you have a stick for the first bolt/draw, totally worth a try especially if you enjoy bouldering. May 31, 2017

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