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Routes in 5.8 Crag

5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arm and Hammer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Asbury Park S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blue Spotted Tail TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blueballs at Christmas T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bolt And Run S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central Park TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chimney of Doom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Granny's Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
License to Ill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Milksnake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milktoast S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moe Pup Sensation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only a Crow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pump Up the Volume S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Romancing The Snake T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Romancing the Stone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Pilot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Snake Skin Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Terrace, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Tom Bowker, 1986
Page Views: 3,156 total, 23/month
Shared By: Patrick Bagley on Oct 26, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Note: New route moratorium area. Details

Description

Sequency 5.10 climbing up a featured crack leads to one or two dicey traverse moves that span between the end of the crack and a series of positive holds. The upper half of the is featured by a series of horiztonals that climb like a ladder.

Location

This route is just left of Arm and Hammer. This start begins on a ledge and follows a incipient crack.

Protection

Bolts with a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Graham O.
  5.10
Graham O.  
  5.10
Felt way easy for the grade, but fun! Aug 28, 2016
S. Neoh
  5.11a/b
S. Neoh  
  5.11a/b
Ha, ha, what a keen observation and comment, Lee.
For me, the climbs that used to "require" at least one piece of trad gear which no longer do - Sky Pilot, No Money Down, Armed and Dangerous, Masterpiece, Lonesome Dove, the "original" Jolt, and perhaps a few others. How about SOS at The Meadows? Not been on that climb since 2006 or so.
Not passing judgment here, just marveling at the evolution of the sport at Rumney. Jul 7, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
Unfortunately true Lee, but then again most people don't like Rumney trad for some weird reason... Jul 6, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Rumney: if you want to climb a trad route and don't climb trad... wait a while ;P Apr 2, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
updated Apr 2, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
I think that the trad listing of this route should be removed due to the fact that there are now at least 5 bolts on the climb and it appears as though you do not need to protect it with gear. Apr 1, 2015
S. Neoh
  5.11a/b
S. Neoh  
  5.11a/b
I led this today with only three "original" bolts and the two new glue-ins. Certainly safe enough but felt quite different to me not having to place gear and clip the two old pins (which are now gone by the way). The runout from the last glue-in to the anchors is significant but on easy ground. There is gear possibility in between to eliminate this runout.

Edit: Thanks to RCA for providing the glue-in's and the Bolt Elf (you know who you are!) for putting them in! This route should get Quick Clips at its anchors. Hint, hint!! Sep 28, 2014
can be led with 2 bolts and 2 cams, i placed a BD .5 at the beggining and a .75 at the end. Aug 17, 2014
Fun climb. Might recommend stick clipping, as some of the holds before the first bolt are really flexing a bit - a fall before the first clip would not be pretty there. Aug 11, 2014
Tyson Miller
Lebanon, NH
  5.11b
Tyson Miller   Lebanon, NH
  5.11b
There are now 2 glue in bolts that protect the upper part of this climb now. I saw them last time I was at 5.8. Jun 5, 2014
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
Thanks! I don't have any trad gear, so I'll stick to other routes. May 7, 2012
S. Neoh
  5.11a/b
S. Neoh  
  5.11a/b
I do not know for sure, since I have not been by 5.8 for over a year now, but my guess is a bolt has not been added. You can protect using a vertical crack after the 3rd bolt and a cam in the 0.5 to 0.75 BD size or a large nut (size 9 BD?). But holds on this climb tend to stay wet for quite a while and it was still very damp up at Rumney yesterday.
If you are looking for your next .11a/b, you are probably better off with climbs like Tropicana, Bullwinkle Craters, A Man with Heuco in His Pants, Three Easy Pieces. Stick clip the 1st bolt on all these climbs though. That said, you should not skip hard .10 climbs the likes of Peer Pressure, Centerpiece, Waimea, Clusterphobia, etc, etc on your way to these .11 climbs. May 7, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
I read the forum discussion about adding a bolt... was the last bolt ever added? I want to try this route but ground fall from 40 feet up makes me think twice. May 7, 2012
S. Neoh
  5.11a/b
S. Neoh  
  5.11a/b
Warning! - Beta Spoiler - there is a right foot hold which can be difficult to spot that is critical for me do the crux at grade. Sep 12, 2011
Jake D.
Northeast
Jake D.   Northeast
Peter, the crux is definitely a bit sneaky so i bet you just missed it. was the hold that came off before the first bolt? or the undercling at the 2nd bolt? Sep 12, 2011
Tried this route on 2nd September and could not figure out the crux between the second and third bolts. Was able to flash Arm and Hammer after failing so either a hold is gone or I really was missing something.

Also while pulling back onto the rock the big undercut at the start of the route came off in my hand! The hold that remains is still a good side pull and doesn't seem to have affected the start in any way. Sep 12, 2011
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
This route is pretty fun, though the 5.11 climbing is really just a traverse from the 2nd bolt clipping jug to the 3rd bolt clipping jug. The sequence of holds on the steep lower section makes for a nice flow of climbing though.

I think the route could benefit from a bolt between the 3rd bolt and the first piton. I imagine many people make it there with a good pump going, and it is certainly possible to fall on the way to the piton. Yeah, you can protect it with gear, but if all moves at Rumney that were protectable by gear were left unbolted, there would be a lot more mixed climbs and less sports climbs at Rumney! Sep 3, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.11b
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.11b
This route is awesome. I used to be for putting one more bolt post crux but after leading it I think it should be left as is. There is one or two more moves past the crux that you could fall from (due to pump) but you wouldn't deck. The only way I see decking as a potential is if you were to blow the move onto the ledge or falling while on the ledge. (Im not trying to reopen the discussion here just posting what I feel about the route so people know) Sep 16, 2010
AWinters
NH
 
AWinters   NH  
 
anyone that's climbing .llb shouldn't have a problem with that upper section. the spice factor adds to it and makes it a memorable climb. i'd leave her alone. Mar 13, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.11b
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.11b
mike he forum has been started under the sport climbing section it is titled retrobolting... Mar 11, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
david start the forum post.. i would love to contribute.. :) for this route i agree with you...retro bolting it kinda seems like a cop out...plus if your climbing 5.11b and you cant climb the 5.6 run out... idk... that'd be a little strange... Mar 10, 2009
David Aguasca!
New York
David Aguasca!   New York
I understand the desire to make it SAFER, but by that logic, why not put a bolt on Blueballs? That would sure make that safer. Anyway, that's a topic for the forum, which I'll gladly start.

So it was all originally climbed on gear, right? Why wasn't it just bolted from the get-go? Also, when it WAS bolted, why wasn't it bolted "safely," i.e. bolts protecting the upper half? Just wondering... Mar 10, 2009
Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
 
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
 
Because it's Rumney. Make it safe. Feb 6, 2009
David Aguasca!
New York
David Aguasca!   New York
I dunno...after the stiff crux, the runout up top seems mild in comparison. if someone wants to bolt it, ok, but if you want to protect the top, and have the option to do it with gear, then why not do it that way? Jan 24, 2009
Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
 
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
 
It's OK by me to retro bolt the upper portion. The climb was originally done w/ preplaced nuts on the lower half. Nov 15, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i seem to remember that one nut between the end of the well protected crux and the next ledge would make the route super safe... or was it a cam? Sep 5, 2008
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Sky Pilot is one of the few sport routes at Rumney that has one or two DO NOT FALL moves. The moves aren't hard, but you would certainly deck if you came off. Sep 2, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I love this route...I climbed it a bunch of times last season... It works well as a warm up for harder climbing due to the fact that the route is "long" but the hard part is brief...it is also worthy of the effort if 5.11 is your limit, just don't come unhinged when you have to run out the easy stuff after the crux...or bring some gear.... Feb 4, 2007