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Routes in 5.8 Crag

5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arm and Hammer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Asbury Park S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blue Spotted Tail TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blueballs at Christmas T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bolt And Run S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central Park TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chimney of Doom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Granny's Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
License to Ill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Milksnake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milktoast S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moe Pup Sensation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only a Crow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pump Up the Volume S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Romancing The Snake T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Romancing the Stone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Pilot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Snake Skin Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Terrace, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: Ted Hammond 6/86
Page Views: 904 total, 7/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 16, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area. Details

Description

Milksnake is a cool trad route that sees little traffic.

Start in the same techy corner as for Milktoast (5.10d) past 3 bolts and the crux of this route to the roof. As you get to the roof rather than going left as you would for that route break right up a crack/steep ramp (protects well with trad gear) that is more balancy and tricky than hard. Follow this system to the top of the cliff and the anchor.

Location

Start as For Milktoast and break right at the roof.

Protection

3 bolts and trad gear (small rack of nuts and cams, nothing big needed). Anchors are back from the edge. Extend them with slings.

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Eli
Lives in a truck
  5.10c
Eli   Lives in a truck
  5.10c
Super enjoyable route, and glad to have done it. If you take some nuts and a BD .5 you'll be fine. Mar 29, 2015