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Routes in 5.8 Crag

5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arm and Hammer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Asbury Park S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blue Spotted Tail TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blueballs at Christmas T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bolt And Run S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central Park TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chimney of Doom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Granny's Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
License to Ill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Milksnake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milktoast S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moe Pup Sensation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only a Crow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pump Up the Volume S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Romancing The Snake T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Romancing the Stone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Pilot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Snake Skin Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Terrace, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Dawn Shimberg, 1989
Page Views: 2,672 total, 20/month
Shared By: Patrick Bagley on Oct 25, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area. Details

Description

The Terrace is a slabby 5.8 climb with one or two awkwardly committing moves on small holds. While worthwhile, this is really the type of climb that you wire in hopes of skunking your friends.

Location

On the left side of 5.8 Crag, The Terrace starts at the height of the land, on a manmade dirt terrace supported by rail road ties.

Protection

Bolts with Quick-Clip lower offs. (please help preserve the Quick Clips by lowering off and TRing on two of your draws whenever possible.)

Photos

Worth the time if you are up on that terrace hanging out. Certainly has a 5.8 section. It was kind of tricky. Not sure where it is "slab" though- other than that easy beginning thing? Jul 4, 2017
peterfogg  
 
I'm just giving this two stars in the hopes that other climbers find it worth doing. I thought it was some nice thoughtful climbing, and not especially sketchy. Jun 4, 2017
Tyler Hutchinson
  5.9- PG13
Tyler Hutchinson  
  5.9- PG13
A little dicey on the crux section heading up to the 4th bolt, some of the moves are a little long if you're short in stature and the deck potential makes me feel as though it's PG13. If you're taller and competent on crimps it turns into a more enjoyable balance problem though. Apr 10, 2017
Kyle Tarry
Portland, OR
  5.8+
Kyle Tarry   Portland, OR
  5.8+
I quite enjoyed this route, and I think it's underrated (as per the number of stars here). The climbing is interesting and balancey, which some good slab and crimp moves. I tend to like "awkward" puzzle climbs more than pump-fests, so this was right up my alley. Oct 10, 2016
David Quinn
5.8 PG13
David Quinn  
5.8 PG13
I guess I am in the minority here as I regularly do this route, (barefoot) and enjoy it very much. I guess I am a bit of a slab lover though! Sep 30, 2013
caesar.salad
earth
  5.9
caesar.salad   earth
  5.9
god this route suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuucks. I got to the 4th bolt today, got bored, and down climbed. I refuse to leave any gear on such a crap route. It actually was kind of fun coming down. Past the 3rd bolt is sketch and on sharp holds. Sep 21, 2013
Ian Dibbs
  5.9 R
Ian Dibbs  
  5.9 R
First half of route is straight forward, upper half is bleak, pain causing mini holds. Gave the route a R rating due to possibility of ankle hurting falls when attempting to clip 2nd bolt above the Terrace. Nov 19, 2012
Milan Krainchich
Wolfeboro, NH
  5.9+
Milan Krainchich   Wolfeboro, NH
  5.9+
Climbed this route two days ago and got took a few falls on the crux before i made it. All this talk about it being thin and crimpy is true but thats what makes a route hard... If you find the right crips and make the moves this route is great. I felt like the crux was more 5.9 to 5.10 but overall i really enjoyed it. May 7, 2012
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.8
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  5.8
I got skunked yesterday :/ Oct 23, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8
I am just going to take this time to remind people to top-rope off your own quick draws and to have the last climber rappel, this will conserve the gear that is in place. Thank you. Oct 14, 2009
ravisurdhar Surdhar
Phoenix, CO
 
ravisurdhar Surdhar   Phoenix, CO
 
Quick clips are very worn through...not sharp, and I wasn't too concerned about running my rope through them, but they should definitely be replaced sometime soon. Same goes for several other climbs at this crag...this one was probably the worst out of all the ones we climbed though. Oct 14, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
i think you should recommend this route if you want to play a mean joke on them.... its really not fun at all... grumble grumble grumble.... May 2, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8
I don't recommend this climb to anyone unless the better routes to the left are taken or you need to warm your tendons up for some of the other crimp fests to the right, I wouldn't stop at this crag just to do this route. Dec 24, 2008