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Routes in 5.8 Crag

5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arm and Hammer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Asbury Park S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blue Spotted Tail TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blueballs at Christmas T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bolt And Run S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central Park TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chimney of Doom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Granny's Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
License to Ill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Milksnake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milktoast S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moe Pup Sensation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only a Crow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pump Up the Volume S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Romancing The Snake T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Romancing the Stone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Pilot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Snake Skin Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Terrace, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Jim Shimberg
Page Views: 2,326 total, 19/month
Shared By: BrianWinslow on Jan 11, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


98 Opinions

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Note: New route moratorium area. Details

Description

A fun climb. The bottom half is fairly technical with broad holds which lead up to a small roof. Above the roof there is s striaght up fun crimp fest (.11a) or some friendlier (but not much) holds to the left.

Location

basically up the arete between "5.8 Crack by the road" and Romancing the stone.

Protection

6 bolts to lower offs

Photos

Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Wow, had it really been 7 years since I first climbed this? I enjoyed it today with Natasha. The first couple of bolts were of easy stemming, before a great, chalky foot and some balance gave reach to a left handed sloper turned jug further back. A really high left foot rock over and I found myself catching a no hands rest left of the roof. Placing my draws way out right was a bit of a reach - it's obvious this route was bolted with intentions of going right up the bulge. I continued up the slots out left, up crimps, and eventually a bucket above the 2nd bolt on the bulge face. Big holds led to the new pair of pigtail anchors. Got down before the rain clouds opened up. :) May 19, 2016
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
Being tall (~6 feet), I found going straight up over the roof to be doable, as I was just barely tall enough to reach the decent hold while doing the knee bar under the roof. Oct 9, 2012
S. Neoh
  5.10d
S. Neoh  
  5.10d
Not a fave of mine but I do remember working pretty darn hard to get a flash of this route the year it was put up. Sharp and painful climb then. We did not know, to be at grade, one ought to pass the roof on the left. I think I attacked it straight on or even a little to the right of the bolt just above the roof. Never again I told myself after the flash. Oct 8, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
So... I just got the Mountain Project app for my new android phone... turns out I need some practice using it. I got on this thinking it was Asbury Park (5.7). Imagine my surprise halfway up when someone told me it was 5.10d.... anyways, I managed to get up, despite quite a few rests. Good knee bar rest in the middle though. Oct 8, 2012
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
About halfway up, you can find perhaps the best undercling I've ever laid my hands on, and get quite a good rest before attacking the few bouldery moves to conquer the bulge. Jul 16, 2009
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
If you missed it on this crags main page, this is a nice photo that shows the line Jun 20, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I used to not like this climb till i found the holds out left after the roof... now its more fun but there are so many better routes at the grade close by i dont tend to choose this one often...

the bottom section ive always thought felt insecure so be careful clipping those bolts lower down... Jan 16, 2008