Type: Sport
FA: Jim Shimberg 1990
Page Views: 4,211 total · 29/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 21, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


217 Opinions

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area. Details

Description

One of the more fun moderate routes at the 5.8 Crag. You will find it on the far left end of the cliff. Follow the line of bolts wandering slightly up right following the blunt low-angle arete past crimpy and slabby moves to the top.

The crux is just past the first bolt and its a bit stout for 5.7. I feel like it's gotten harder with use. Very crimpy. A few more tricky parts but nothing nearly as hard as you finish. At the top, follow cracks to the clips.

Location

To the left and down from the lowest railroad tie step. On the far left end of the cliff.

Protection

5 bolts to quick clips.

Photos

matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
There is also a crimpy and technical face climb on TR if you let the rope hang straight down from the anchors. This climb is fun going over a overlap on small crimps makes for an exciting few moves. I would say it is 5.9+, I enjoy it a lot. The top eventually meets up with Ashbury Park. Dec 2, 2008
S. Neoh
  5.8-
S. Neoh  
  5.8-
The spring-loaded gate on both quick clips at the anchor are no longer sprung to close. Be careful when lowering. And, as always, top-rope through your own draws to minimize wear on the anchors.
I will alert the RCA as well about the broken spring action on these quickies. Sep 29, 2014