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Routes in 5.8 Crag

5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arm and Hammer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Asbury Park S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blue Spotted Tail TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blueballs at Christmas T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Bolt And Run S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central Park TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chimney of Doom T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Granny's Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
License to Ill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Milksnake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milktoast S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moe Pup Sensation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only a Crow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pump Up the Volume S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Romancing The Snake T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Romancing the Stone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Pilot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Snake Skin Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Terrace, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport
FA: Jim Shimberg 1990
Page Views: 4,081 total · 29/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 21, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area. Details


One of the more fun moderate routes at the 5.8 Crag. You will find it on the far left end of the cliff. Follow the line of bolts wandering slightly up right following the blunt low-angle arete past crimpy and slabby moves to the top.

The crux is just past the first bolt and its a bit stout for 5.7. I feel like it's gotten harder with use. Very crimpy. A few more tricky parts but nothing nearly as hard as you finish. At the top, follow cracks to the clips.


To the left and down from the lowest railroad tie step. On the far left end of the cliff.


5 bolts to quick clips.


Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
There is also a crimpy and technical face climb on TR if you let the rope hang straight down from the anchors. This climb is fun going over a overlap on small crimps makes for an exciting few moves. I would say it is 5.9+, I enjoy it a lot. The top eventually meets up with Ashbury Park. Dec 2, 2008
S. Neoh
S. Neoh  
The spring-loaded gate on both quick clips at the anchor are no longer sprung to close. Be careful when lowering. And, as always, top-rope through your own draws to minimize wear on the anchors.
I will alert the RCA as well about the broken spring action on these quickies. Sep 29, 2014

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