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Routes in 5.8 Crag

5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arm and Hammer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Asbury Park S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blue Spotted Tail TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blueballs at Christmas T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bolt And Run S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central Park TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chimney of Doom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Granny's Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
License to Ill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Milksnake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milktoast S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moe Pup Sensation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only a Crow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pump Up the Volume S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Romancing The Snake T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Romancing the Stone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Pilot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Snake Skin Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Terrace, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Jim Shimberg 9/00
Page Views: 1,306 total, 10/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 10, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


58 Opinions

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Note: New route moratorium area. Details

Description

A one move wonder on the far right end of the crag up the hill from Arm and Hammer (5.11b).

Start up easier rock to gain a stance, a few moves reach the crux (mostly crimps) to more moderate climbing. A few more tricky moves but for the most part the lower crux is the one to beat.

Not the best route of the grade, but on a busy day it is worth doing.

Location

The far right hand (up the hill) line at 5.8.

Protection

6 bolts to an anchor.

Photos

Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Couldn't do this one, —totally shut down,— UNTIL I discovered the "secret move." (Well, my son showed me.) Once you know the tricky beta, the climb becomes another 5.10.

One other thing, the bolt protecting the crux is pretty low. If you go for the semi-bucket with your right hand and fall (as I did), you can hit the slab below, so make sure that your belayer is alert to this. Sep 20, 2015
karl vochatzer
Cedar City, UT
  5.10a/b
karl vochatzer   Cedar City, UT
  5.10a/b
Seemed like a low 5.10 to me especially when compared to [sandbagged to me] Romancing The Stone (5.10c). Send both and feel the difference yourself.

The crux is not that difficult to figure out. Step back on the deck and have a look to find the two right hand clipping holds at both bolts, then sort out the left hand move(s) (sidepulls mostly) and the supporting foot work (high left foot on giant crip) to get from clipping hold to clipping hold (bolts 3 and 4 I believe it was). Enjoyed it regardless of the rating. Jul 16, 2013
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
 
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
 
tricky at the grade for sure! Apr 29, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10b
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10b
he first few time I got on it, it felt impossible to me too! Once you figure out the beta it feels right in the .10b/c range. That being said I have not climbed it this year so something could have broken on it this winter. Apr 1, 2013
Am I missing beta or is the climb now missing a hold? This crux felt way harder than Gulliver's at Pulse which is rated 11a... Apr 1, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10b
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10b
This thing shuts me down everytime, I must be missing something... Haha Aug 9, 2009