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Routes in 5.8 Crag

5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arm and Hammer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Asbury Park S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blue Spotted Tail TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blueballs at Christmas T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Bolt And Run S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central Park TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chimney of Doom T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Granny's Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
License to Ill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Milksnake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milktoast S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moe Pup Sensation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only a Crow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pump Up the Volume S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Romancing The Snake T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Romancing the Stone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Pilot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Snake Skin Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Terrace, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Jim Shimberg 11/02
Page Views: 2,532 total · 22/month
Shared By: matthewWallace on Jan 8, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area. Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This route right now would be described as chossy at best, Jim Shimberg cleaned this route a few years back for two reasons, an easier climb for beginners and an alternative to walking around the cliff to put up a top rope. This climb is fun even in the mossy conditions. Without the moss the holds can seem sharp because it is a newer route. There is no defined crux but as the route is now the crux would be dealing with the mossy holds. This route could be close to the same quality as A Week With Pete with just a little bit of love, I am going to try to clean this line once the ice melts off of it. The route itself goes straight up the slab on good moves, if you are the 5.8 Crag and don't mind some moss get on this route you will have some dirty fun.

Location [Suggest Change]

This is the far left route at the 5.8 Crag, this is left of Asbury Park when you reach the Asbury Park arete walk around it and it will be a few feet from the arete just past a cluster of trees close to the rock, look for the easy mossy slab with bolts.

Protection [Suggest Change]

4 maybe 5 bolts and anchors

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
thats great... i was just looking at that a few weeks ago wondering why someone put up a climb on pure moss... now i know... if you like dirty climbs do the chimney of doom... its so fun... and awful... Jan 9, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
yeah i guess the route was completely clean at one point but it gets wet easy and not much traffic so it grows back quickly, I do plan on getting on the chimney of doom i have an odd fascination with chossy routes Jan 9, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
i did this yesterday just for kicks and giggles and was laughing the whole way up haha :) when you walk up its just a mat of green moss and a random bolt sticking out of it and your like ...whhhaaaaatttt???? lol and there is almost some bushwacking to be done near the anchors.... my only question is... 2 stars? haha idk about 2 stars :) Aug 7, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
yeah the two stars was probably a gift but i found it surprisingly fun haha Aug 7, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I've never done this route. I saw the bolts sticking out of the moss and I was like WTF? It's good that this route was posted but, but 2 stars? You have a twisted idea of fun Matt. Aug 9, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
That I do Jay, I think because it is dirty and almost funny how dirty it is i enjoyed it, not sying everyone will enjoy it as much as me, but I did enjoy it. Maybe a good cleaning is due, I may do just that... Aug 9, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
cleaning it could ruin it haha.... i think i have the same twisted opinion of what fun is... but jay knows that :) Aug 9, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
i think the 2 stars comes from the laugh factor lol :) you cant really keep a strait face while your fighting moss shrubs and trying to clip a bolt lol :) Aug 9, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
Lee and Mike both well said, but this route does have good potential if it was cleaned, lso more people would do it if it wasnt like climbng a moss field... Aug 9, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Just climbed it today... awesome! clean it if you want but it was fun just how it is :) Apr 20, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
I am glad I am not the only one who thinks that! Apr 20, 2010
J Meagher
  5.4
J Meagher  
  5.4
The guidebook gives this an "R" for the protection rating... Does anybody think that's accurate, or is it just a typo? Dec 6, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
The route only has 3 bolts so a fall would not be pleasant and with the amount of moss it does make it a bit less secure, but not sure if a R rating is really due... Dec 8, 2012
Peter Jackson
Rumney, NH
Peter Jackson   Rumney, NH
"The guidebook gives this an "R" for the protection rating"

I think if you somehow fell while clipping the second bolt, you'd get hurt. But honestly, the stance is like a ledge there, so it's unlikely to happen. Like many of Shim's routes, it's bolted safely-but-sparsely. Sep 20, 2013
Eli
GMC3500
 
Eli   GMC3500
 
Feels adventurous, even though it's a safely bolted sport route. Moss biologists would love this route! Aug 5, 2015

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