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Routes in 5.8 Crag

5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arm and Hammer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Asbury Park S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blue Spotted Tail TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blueballs at Christmas T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bolt And Run S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central Park TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chimney of Doom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Granny's Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
License to Ill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Milksnake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milktoast S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moe Pup Sensation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only a Crow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pump Up the Volume S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Romancing The Snake T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Romancing the Stone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Pilot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Snake Skin Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Terrace, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Ted Hammond, 1986
Page Views: 7,410 total, 55/month
Shared By: Patrick Bagley on Oct 25, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


274 Opinions

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Note: New route moratorium area. Details

Description

Romancing the Stone is the most distinguishable climbs at 5.8 Crag, as is follows the first line you see as you approach the cliff. The first third of the climb is characterized by technical 5.10 face climbing that is punctuated by an exit move on the "romancing stone," an brick sized tooth that has been wobbly for as long as anyone can remember. In the immortal advice of Tenacious D, use this hold "gently." A rest of sorts can be found before launching into a pumpy traverse and jug haul to the chains.

Location

Romancing the Stone is found at the center of 5.8 crag. If approaching from the road, this will be the first climb you see.

Protection

6 bolts, with a two bolt anchor up top.
Graham O.  
 
My friend called it her favorite ten at Rumney (before doing Underdog, Armed and Dangerous, Waimea, and Lonesome Dove) so I had high expectations. Didn't come close to living up to them, but it was pretty fun if you don't mind an annoying middle section. Aug 5, 2016
Ming
 
Ming  
 
I think the route is harder for the shorter (5ft 2in wingspan) people because:

1. The start undercling move I had to do a foot match to bump the right foot up and then rebalance...all while crimping on the undercling

2. Oh, and there is no way for me to put up the 1st draw (other than stick clip, of course) until after I did the move from #1...and the stab for the good hold. Talk about committing.

3. If you are 5ft 8 or taller you can skip the side cling crimp in the crack and just stab for the good hold above it at the 2nd bolt. The foot isn't that good for it and I had to readjust after stepping into the crimp to reach the good hold with my right hand.

So I bet if people try with the short person way it will feel harder. Still 10C once the beta is refined, but watching my partner skipping those crux moves (he's like 6ft 2in) and always have decent holds gave me quite a bit of height envy. May 13, 2016
S. Neoh
  5.10c/d
S. Neoh  
  5.10c/d
+1 on the grease factor! This is unfortunate. Maybe time to power wash the first half of this climb from the ground. And I am only half joking!!
Edit to add: Move for move, IMO there are harder .10c, Millenium Falcon and Cold Turkey for instance. But for pump factor, only Centerpiece back when it was given the .10c grade rivals this climb in pumpiness at the ".10c" rating. Oct 18, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
This is definitely a test piece for the grade, you can likely climb any 5.10c in Rumney if you've bagged this. Beware the grease factor from the years of wear! Oct 18, 2015
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
I managed to pump off on my flash attempt on this as I was throwing blindly for the first big huge jug near the end and missed. Heartbreaking. On my second attempt I couldn't figure out the beginning technical moves - they felt so easy the first time...

P.S. Where was the stone? Also - does anyone have video of this route going down? May 20, 2013
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
 
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
 
A good climb for laps. Jun 2, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i changed it to 60... Mar 9, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
20 feet? I'm guessing that is a typo.... Mar 8, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
im just joking about the "old days" but ive been climbing this line often for about 12ish years and over that time it has gotten pretty polished on the first half... i felt like the loss of the stone made that move easier but it was never a hard move to begin with so no biggie there... still a good route but not worth the hype IMO... a good warm up for 5.12ish stuff... Sep 25, 2010
S. Neoh
  5.10c/d
S. Neoh  
  5.10c/d
OK, Lee, about the old days, how long ago? I got on the route just a while back after not climbing it for about 10 years. Half way up, I got quite confused! The route had changed(!) because some bolts were moved around(?). Seems to have more of a traverse now. Not sure if the loss of the 'stone' had anything to do with it, though. Sep 24, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i hate how greasy the bottom moves have gotten... i would do it more and like it more if it still had friction like in the old days :) Sep 24, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
today i clipped the first bolt then did the rest on gear... actually protected better than i thought it would... leading them on gear is a cool way to make the old routes feel new again... Apr 26, 2010
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
....soo pumpy....ouch... Aug 7, 2009
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
An excellent climb! I'd say the climbing tends to get easier as you go, but you also get more pumped, so it feels like a nice constant difficulty the whole way through if you take your level of exhaustion into account. I'll be back on this again in the near future. Jul 16, 2009
christopher adams  
  5.10c
"rest of sorts" is hands free rest 1/3 the way up the route.. move your feet over left, and just lay in the corner. Jul 6, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10c
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10c
this route also has a fun direct exit, which goes straight up from the fourth bolt when you then place gear, the is an anchor up there, beware this variation doesn't see much traffic so the variation is kind of dirty Mar 20, 2009
Mrs Cracklover
Denver, more or less
Mrs Cracklover   Denver, more or less
Reminiscing the stone? (t. georgewitz's idea) Nov 5, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
it had been there for so long, how did it come out...crazy...
as for the name game i belive in the movie "romancing the stone" they do remove the stone, so the name could still fit the movie its named for... Jul 16, 2007
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.10b
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.10b
The stone is gone! Should the route be renamed to, perhaps, Removing the Stone, or Retrieving the Stone? Jul 15, 2007