License to Ill
Avg: 2.6 from 20 votes
|FA:||Steve Damboise 10/87|
|Page Views:||1,322 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on Mar 1, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionLicense to Ill is one of the best climbs at the crag, move for move. The climbing is interesting and exciting, and the gear is good enough where you need it. I think it is more PG13 than R, but the guidebook says R due to a recorded ground fall, so I will too. It's not as scary as Blue Balls at Christmas.
So, you follow interesting moves up a flake and out left to a letter box slot (protect with TCU) climbing to the crux in the upper third of the route. A pretty big move to a good crimpy hold with a small(I use a #7 stopper I think) but solid nut at your waist. You can prolly get away with smaller crimpy moves too.
Climb it on TR first if you are not totally solid in the grade, because it is a little spicy.
LocationJust right of Romancing the Stone is a left-facing corner with cracks in it. Climb this to a stance on a ledge and continue up a right facing flake and follow the weakness to a 2 bolt anchor.
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