Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 5.8 Crag

5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arm and Hammer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Asbury Park S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blue Spotted Tail TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blueballs at Christmas T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bolt And Run S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Central Park TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chimney of Doom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Granny's Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
License to Ill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Milksnake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milktoast S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moe Pup Sensation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only a Crow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pump Up the Volume S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Romancing The Snake T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Romancing the Stone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Pilot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Snake Skin Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Terrace, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: Steve Damboise 10/87
Page Views: 1,322 total · 10/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 1, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


20 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Note: New route moratorium area. Details

Description

License to Ill is one of the best climbs at the crag, move for move. The climbing is interesting and exciting, and the gear is good enough where you need it. I think it is more PG13 than R, but the guidebook says R due to a recorded ground fall, so I will too. It's not as scary as Blue Balls at Christmas.

So, you follow interesting moves up a flake and out left to a letter box slot (protect with TCU) climbing to the crux in the upper third of the route. A pretty big move to a good crimpy hold with a small(I use a #7 stopper I think) but solid nut at your waist. You can prolly get away with smaller crimpy moves too.

Climb it on TR first if you are not totally solid in the grade, because it is a little spicy.

Location

Just right of Romancing the Stone is a left-facing corner with cracks in it. Climb this to a stance on a ledge and continue up a right facing flake and follow the weakness to a 2 bolt anchor.

Protection

A few nuts and TCUs or Aliens. I worked out gear on TR, so I could pre-rack.

Photos

- No Photos -
S. Neoh
 
S. Neoh  
 
This route is great, way better than Blue Balls in my opinion. It has mostly been a TR problem for years and years. If the "recorded ground fall" is the one I am thinking of, I believe a piece of gear might have pulled in that incident, resulting in the climber hitting the ground, sustaining non life threatening injuries. Lucky guy. Aug 26, 2010
Victor McConnell
Golden, CO
Victor McConnell   Golden, CO
I agree with Tristan and Lee. No need to bolt this one.

While I understand that Rumney is a sport crag, I don't think crags should be developed in a totally homogenous fashion.

For people who begin climbing at Rumney (as I did), it is good to look in the guidebook and see that trad routes with a bit of mental factor exist. Sep 22, 2007
I agree with Lee: it would be tragic to lose the special character of the route to someone's bolting fantasy. If it's too scary for some on lead, what is so inadequate about a lap on toprope? This is, in my opinion, the best route on the wall - don't bolt it!!! Sep 21, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Please don't bolt this route.... It's nice to know that with a small rack and a cool head there are routes you don't have to wait in line for on a busy day.... Mar 4, 2007
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.11a R
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.11a R
The route is to the RIGHT of Romancing the Stone, and yes, the gear is more PG13 than R, but should be approached with certain caution due to the friable nature of Schist. Why this route hasn't been bolted yet is beyond me! Mar 3, 2007