Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches
FA: T. & D. Swain, 1995
Page Views: 8,488 total · 38/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 7, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This climb starts up a left-facing corner to a bulge and onto a small ledge to the left side of a roof. Pass this while moving right and around the roof, up to a fixed anchor.

I do not remember the second pitch well, but Swain states that you need draws for the 'many bolts' to continue up the second pitch on the right... I don't recall how many myself.

Rap on two 60 meter ropes from the second fixed anchor to the ground.

Pitch 3 follows 10 bolts to a two-bolt anchor at about 90’ Progressively more difficult moves and progressively better stone leads to a thin crux at the last two bolts. 10d/11a seems to be the consensus on this pitch. Rivals anything on Black Velvet proper.

Location Suggest change

This is the next left-facing corner to the left of the area classics Mazatlan and Ixtalan, and is just to the right of the route Misunderstanding.

Protection Suggest change

A standard Rack + draws.