Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: T. & D. Swain, 1995
Page Views: 4,840 total · 31/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 7, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin .

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This climb starts up a left-facing corner to a bulge and onto a small ledge to the left side of a roof. Pass this while moving right and around the roof, up to a fixed anchor.
I do not remember the second pitch well, but Swain states that you need draws for the 'many bolts' to continue up the second pitch on the right... I don't recall how many myself.
Rap on two 60 meter ropes from the second fixed anchor to the ground.

Location

This is the next left-facing corner to the left of the area classics Mazatlan and Ixtalan, and is just to the right of the route Misunderstanding.

Protection

A standard Rack + draws.
Did this route today, and I'd give it 3 stars. Definitely more fun than Sand Felipe, although the overall quality of the bolts affects the fun factor of the climb. Assuming Swain hangers hold falls, I'd reccommend this one to anyone looking to stack on a few more pitches after doing some of the classics nearby. ASCA: this route needs a safe rap anchor! Two bolts, one really rusted hanger located six feet above the last, connected by rotting tat-ugh. Like the Misunderstanding, this one can be rapped with one rope, and the bolts on the second pitch number 10 or less. It is a sport pitch; I hope that's helpful-no gear required after first anchor. May 2, 2007
sqwirll
Las Vegas
 
sqwirll   Las Vegas
 
Great route. Pitch 1 takes single rack to 2", with double #2's. Pitch 2 is bolts, probably around 8 of them. All bolts and anchors are new and solid. 2 raps with a single 60 get you down. Jun 17, 2011
Pitty
Marbach
  5.10b X
Pitty   Marbach
  5.10b X
climbed it today, found it at least 3 stars. third pitch is added but ends up with a runout to a 2 1/4 bolt anchor, don't understand why this anchor hasn't been changed as well.
with this hanging belay at two 1/4 absolutely dangerous! Recommend not to do the third pitch although it is the best of the three! May 5, 2013
Scott Cooper  
 
Second pitch is stellar. Great exposure and fun moves. Nov 4, 2013
Josh Janes    
 
P1 (5.9): Gear, then two bolts.

P2 (5.10a): Fully bolted (7 bolts).

P3 (5.10c): Fully bolted (10 bolts). No run out; anchor is replaced and bomber.

Three raps back down the route with a 60m rope. Sep 15, 2014
A little clarification on gear in the style of JJ.

P1 (5.9): Beautiful gear crack, then two bolts to anchor. I placed .75, 1, and two 2's. Could have used more 1's and even another 2 and could have placed a 3, just didn't have them. No wires or small stuff needed.

P2 (5.10a/b): Bolts (8 maybe?). No gear. A little spacy, but not bad. Holds feel a little crispy, but everything holds.

P3 (5.10d/11a): Bolts (10 maybe?). No gear. Basically straight up passing a set of anchors to your right (at second to last bolt). Once you get to the last obvious bolt, continue up and left into a wide crack with big holds. The anchor, new and bombproof, is on a ledge and out of sight. This pitch is better than the second and totally worth doing. Mar 8, 2015
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
5.10+
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
5.10+
I'd agree with Justin, P3 felt a bit harder than 10c, more like 10+ dime edging for the last three bolts or so. There is a bit of runout between the 3rd and 4th bolt (~20ft) but it is easy. If you are worried take a #4 and protect the horizontal in between them. Awesome route! Mar 30, 2015
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
Fun little route. The first 2 pitches link easily and make for one stellar pitch. P3 is 10d, maybe 11a. Nov 16, 2016
Fernando Cal
CA, UT
  5.9
Fernando Cal   CA, UT
  5.9
Only did the first two pitches. The first pitch was fun, and the upper second pitch felt like a solid 5.9 face climbing pitch. Crunchy, positive holds. 8b's to the anchors (with rap rings). Apr 17, 2017
Paul L
Portland, OR
  5.10b
Paul L   Portland, OR
  5.10b
Climbed this on 10/16. Fun route. Linking P1 & P2 was great for the added length and variety coming from the crack to the featured face.
Third pitch was super fun face/gentle arete climbing and has a couple of defined crux moves at/around the last two bolts.
One note, after passing the last bolt you have to move left into a chimney like feature to reach the anchors. Making that traverse I pulled on a large piece of varnish (18"+ square) that sounded OK and felt good, but audibly started to delaminate as I weighted it laterally. I ditched as quickly as possible onto the next hold into the chimney and to the anchors. It was fairly busy and it was not safe to free this piece at the time. If climbing soon, I would assume that piece is going to come off, use a bit of extra caution and a couple extra knocks making those final moves. Oct 18, 2017