Avg: 2.3 from 4 votes
Routes in Whiskey Peak
|Amber T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Archaeopteryx T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Bourbon Hangover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Canadian Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Cole Essence T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Desert Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|First Grader T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Frogland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Geriatrics (aka Ben Dover Beelzebub) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Ixtlan T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Kenny Laguna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Matzoland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Mazatlan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Miss Conception T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Misunderstanding, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Only the Good Die Young T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Our Father T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R|
|Perplexity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Rain Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Return To Forever T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Sand Felipe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Sandblast T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Tales from the Gripped T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Triassic Sands T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Wholesome Fullback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Brian Bock, Chris Spencer, 9-18-10|
|Page Views:||2,950 total, 33/month|
|Shared By:||Brian Bock on Sep 21, 2010|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis line follows the first 2 pitches of Bourbon Street giving it the 5.8+ rating, then links in with a small continuous crack system to the summit blocks for the last 4 pitches.
At the top of the 2nd pitch, set up belay to the right of the bushes to gain access to the last 4 pitches.
P3: A bouldery start straight up a couple of blocks will lead to a right trending crack. Follow this and set up belay on a decent ledge.
P4: The goal is to gain a crack at the far right side of the prominent face which borders the large gully droping off to the right. A semi overhanging section followed with a short traverse to the right will gain access to the crack on the knife-blade edge. Follow this exposed face up to ledges and set up shop.
P5: Traverse to the right from the belay towards the large gully on the right, and gain access to the small finger crack. You cannot see the start of the crack till you traverse a bit around the corner. Follow this crack up staying right till the crack veers a bit left through a couple of exposed bulge like sections. End at nice ledges before the last face section.
P6: The crack now takes a left trending path which has nice exposure. Follow this crack directly up the last main face to the Summit Blocks!!!
You should not encounter anything harder than 5.7 on the last 4 pitches. There is good exposure and comfy belays for the entire climb. I welcome any input on grades or beta.