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Routes in Whiskey Peak

Amber T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archaeopteryx T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bourbon Hangover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Canadian Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cole Essence T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Desert Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Grader T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Frogland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geriatrics (aka Ben Dover Beelzebub) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ixtlan T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kenny Laguna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Matzoland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mazatlan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Conception T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Misunderstanding, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Only the Good Die Young T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Our Father T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Perplexity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rain Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Return To Forever T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sand Felipe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sandblast T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tales from the Gripped T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triassic Sands T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wholesome Fullback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Brian Bock, Chris Spencer, 9-18-10
Page Views: 2,950 total, 33/month
Shared By: Brian Bock on Sep 21, 2010
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This line follows the first 2 pitches of Bourbon Street giving it the 5.8+ rating, then links in with a small continuous crack system to the summit blocks for the last 4 pitches.

At the top of the 2nd pitch, set up belay to the right of the bushes to gain access to the last 4 pitches.

P3: A bouldery start straight up a couple of blocks will lead to a right trending crack. Follow this and set up belay on a decent ledge.

P4: The goal is to gain a crack at the far right side of the prominent face which borders the large gully droping off to the right. A semi overhanging section followed with a short traverse to the right will gain access to the crack on the knife-blade edge. Follow this exposed face up to ledges and set up shop.

P5: Traverse to the right from the belay towards the large gully on the right, and gain access to the small finger crack. You cannot see the start of the crack till you traverse a bit around the corner. Follow this crack up staying right till the crack veers a bit left through a couple of exposed bulge like sections. End at nice ledges before the last face section.

P6: The crack now takes a left trending path which has nice exposure. Follow this crack directly up the last main face to the Summit Blocks!!!

You should not encounter anything harder than 5.7 on the last 4 pitches. There is good exposure and comfy belays for the entire climb. I welcome any input on grades or beta.

Protection

Pro to 4"

Photos

Tricamus
Culver City, CA
 
Tricamus   Culver City, CA
 
I either was adjacent to the route the whole time (upper pitches 3-6) or found it to be a bit more brittle and crumbly than expected. Belays are pretty comfy the entire route. No crowds on this one, as most people are out there for Frogland, but we still enjoyed the same summit and sense of accomplishment. Not a bad day out, but I wouldn't repeat this route.

On a side note, we took the crack to the right of Bourbon Street's P2, and it was also very brittle but an adventurous crack. Rain Dance on P1 was the highlight of our link up. Jan 27, 2014