Type: Trad, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: George & Joanne Urioste, Mike Gilbert
Page Views: 81,955 total · 374/month
Shared By: Scott Conner on Mar 9, 2001 with updates from Deborah Sherwin and 1 other
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


A great route! And VERY popular. Start early.

For the approach, take the trail that skirts the pink cliff band on the left. Work your way around the cliff band and to the right. Look for a huge roof capping a large slab and make your way to the crack on the right side of this feature. Scramble up a few 4th-class sections to the a nice terrace and the beginning of a LF corner/crack that has a few bolts (why?)...

P1: 5.7, 150' Climb a crack in a block (awkward) to gain the left-facing corner/crack. Climb this for a nice long pitch and belay on the second of two big ledges. Tree anchor.

P2: 5.7, 150' Work right from the belay and climb a lower-angle crack in a LF corner to a ledge. From here (a) Make a few exciting moves out left and up a crack to another ledge. Or (b) continue straight up through a wide overhanging flake/crack section to a small ledge.

P3: 5.6, 100' Work out left into a nice right-facing dihedral, up this, then out right through a small overhang and belay at the base of an obtuse corner with some thin face moves to the right.

The next 3 pitches are PG so be ready for some spice!

P4: 5.8, 140' Climb out left of the thin corner on small edges and thin pro. Gain a decent crack that climbs up to the right side of the giant roof clipping an old pin along the way. Check out the slabby leftward traverse under the roof which marks the crux of the route. Make the delicate moves across to a thin crack and up about 40' to a small belay stance that takes 1.5-3" gear. Awesome!

P5: 5.8, 130' Make some PG face moves up to a bolt. Climb up left to a huge chockstone and tunnel behind it. Work up and right into a right-facing corner and up to a ledge with tricky belay gear.

P6: 5.6, 160'? Work out right onto the face and let the better gear lead your way up to a small bulge at the top. Turn the bulge and head up 5.2 terrain to the top. This pitch is broken up into 2 pitches in the book but we've always done it as one with a 60m rope. Alternatively, follow the corner at about 5.7.

Descent: Follow the cairns. Pick your way over the peak and turn left down the gully leading east. Go down the white rock on the left side of the gully. Take the gully down and to the left and contour around the mountain and back to the base of the climb.


Pro to 3".


John Peterson
John Peterson  
This is a pretty good route description - I'll add a few tidbits to it. The second pitch is often divided into two halves - there is a good ledge atop the left facing layback. As described, there are two routes from this ledge - one to the left has a bolt just past this ledge and the pro is a little sketchy but not too bad.

The first pitch is possibly the crux of the climb - I'd call it 5.8 and it's more continuous than the other cruxes.

P4 and P5 are probably a bit shorter than described.

The move under the chockstone is the crux for tall climbers!

Stay left on the slabs when possible during the descent - you'll see cairns both on the left and in the main gully.

All if the belay ledges except the one atop P4 are pretty big.

Definitely the best 5.8 mutipitch in Vegas.

John Mar 24, 2004
Eric and Lucie
Boulder, CO
Eric and Lucie   Boulder, CO
Why the bolts on the first pitch??? There is a bomber crack right there... I cannot remember if those bolts have been there for a long time... don't remember them back when I did the route many years ago. Have they been added recently? Why? There seems to be new unnecessary bolts appearing on existing routes throughout the area. Is it just me or is this really happening? Oct 26, 2004
Edward Jenner
Edward Jenner  
My first RR route. At the time I thought it was more like 7, but maybe 8 compared to other RR 8's

In any case a lot of fun. We traversed at lot lower on Pitch 4 than shown in the picture - to the base of the crack on the left and it seemed very reasonable.

The rap bolts had been removed from the hangers on all pitches.

Mar 29, 2005
marc rosenthal
Canyon Lake, TX
marc rosenthal   Canyon Lake, TX
Probably the greatest trad route I have ever led. The best way to do this is take one rope-that way you are committed to go all the way. To me the 4th pitch felt like the true crux of the climb. This was based on traversing under the roof up high. Very committing crossing that smooth slab.

Make certain to belay right after the chockstone. Continuing into the easy chimney brings on serious rope drag. Feb 14, 2006
This route can be done in 4 pitches easily with a 60M rope--the face climbing on the last pitch felt harder than 5.6. Mar 6, 2006
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Yesterday we had a rather remarkable experience on this route. I have always seen it very crowded, and once tried to start at 2PM in the hope that it would have emptied out. This attempt only got up the first 2 pitches before we bumped into the conga-line and rapped off as we were unprepared to bivy.

Yesterday morning we drove into the Black Velvet parking lot at the relatively tardy hour of 7AM to see not a single vehicle. We spooked a herd of bighorn sheep on the approach. I was leading the second pitch, and the canyon was still very quiet although we had noticed the arrival of a few cars. My partner Todd Pett heard a strange sound down below, and eventually realized it was frogs. It is my understanding that this sound was the reason for the name of this route. I regret that I was too focussed on the climbing to hear them.

We found the route a lot of fun, and not entirely obvious. There are a lot of options, especially around pitches 2-3, and we wandered around a bit in this area. The temps were chilly for this time of year, but nothing a few layers couldn't solve. There was another party 2-3 pitches behind us, but other than that we had the route to ourselves. Nice route! Apr 24, 2006
Jim Matt
Indianapolis, IN
Jim Matt   Indianapolis, IN
Climbed this on 4/17 (my partner Gina led all of the pitches). I thought it was a great route...lots of different options especially up high. We started around 1 PM and had the route to ourselves on a rather cool and windy day (except for Alex and Greg, another party of two with us who climbed just ahead of us). I thought the crux was the face climbing to the bolt on the 5th (chockstone) pitch. I wasn't too much of a fan climbing above this pitch...but the rest of it was spectacular. By the way, I dropped my camera at the chockstone...check the forums for contact info if you found it. May 1, 2006
Las Vegas, Nevada
raygay   Las Vegas, Nevada
As my first 5.8 lead, I agree the short face climb on tiny smooth nubs to the bolt on the 5th pitch was the crux. But my partner led the delicate traverse below the roof on the 4th pitch, so I really don't know which of the two is truly the harder lead. I could not get past the chockstone without removing my day pack and hanging it from my harness. That added to the thrill of leading the 5th pitch. Belaying on top of the chockstone seemed a good idea. Since all of the hangers on the rappel bolts have been removed, rapping off the route will require leaving some gear. This route was very crowded on Saturday, 29 Apr 06. Lots of waiting involved. Plan to be patient and courteous on this route anytime there are more than three or four parties. May 1, 2006
Ian Wolfe
Fayetteville, NC
Ian Wolfe   Fayetteville, NC
After the 5.8 crux traverse, there is an option to take an insecure finger crack with poor, sandy feet to the left instead of the large main crack to the right. I felt this variation was solid 5.10, and the party below me, after climbing it, thought 10c seemed to fit the bill. I'd go with at least 10b. It's pretty fun, and a nice challenge, especially if you are like me and slipped off the 5.8 slab and are looking to patch your tattered honor...

We also traversed off to the left before continuing up on pitch 3 (I think?). I believe this follows the route of the first ascent, which is different from what is described in most guidebooks. This made for a slightly more adventurous climb, with a cool belay in a cave. Mar 9, 2007
Larry DeAngelo
Las Vegas, NV
Larry DeAngelo   Las Vegas, NV  
Further on the thin crack leading to the chockstone: I had the opportunity to ask George Urioste why they drilled the bolt on the face when the crack was right there. They had climbed the crack, of course, and figured it was good solid old-school 5.9 (no sandbag, there-- I agree). But George always had a thought for the community. He figured that a knucklebuster 5.9 fingercrack was out of place on what was otherwise a pretty relaxed 5.8 route. By adding the bolt-protected balance moves to the right of the corner he thought the route would appeal to a very broad cross-section of climbers. History has proved him correct, and the route is one of the most popular at Red Rock. Mar 12, 2007
I LOVE this route. If I had to choose only one route to do for the rest of my life, this would be it. Totally belay on top of the chockstone, it is a great belay. Aug 8, 2008
Doug Foust
Henderson, Nevada
Doug Foust   Henderson, Nevada
Great route that lives up to the hype. In the offwidth crack at the top of pitch #2 watch out for the loose block at the top of the pillar in the crack. Today it was marked in chalk with 3 x's Nov 7, 2008
Steve Blevins
Central Coast, CA
Steve Blevins   Central Coast, CA
All right, here's the skinny. Climbed Frogland today, I lead first 3 pitches, my partner, Marc Jenson the last. He climbed it some years ago, on sight for me. We used my 60m rope.

Pitch 1: I climbed to a good flat ledge with fixed cam. On the wall to the climber's right were 2 bolts wo/ hangers. above was a rock marked in chalk with 2 x's (Is this where the beer gets its name?) Partner had to simulclimb ~10' to the next ledge.

Pitch 2: Climbed to below roof on large ledge. Protection possibilities not generous. No simulclimbing, ~200'

Pitch 3: Climbed to good ledge above chockstone. No simulclimbing, ~200'

Pitch 4: to the top, maybe 150' Apr 18, 2009
A good route, all loose blocks are marked with big white X's. A fun intro to Red Rocks. Careful, crack eats cams. Many cams are fixed up this climb right now as of 10/05/2009. Oct 5, 2009
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
climbed the route today- as usual, the second pitch is nearly fixed with cams- which is nice if you wanna climb fast. this route is good evidence that many folks who climb it are still new enough that they need to learn to sling their pro properly. proper slinging = no fixed gear.

on another note- the 'loose block' below the chockstone marked with an 'X' is NOT loose at all, feel free to use it. actually, i cant remember a single loose block at all on the route.

as usual, the route is a good one- very enjoyable, albeit fairly cold for this time of year! Oct 6, 2009
Climbed this route on Halloween 2009. Great fun! Pitch 2 is littered with fixed cams, maybe 8 or so. Could be a booty pirates dream. At least one fixed cam per pitch. Hangerless bolts abound at the belay stations. Jan 6, 2010
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
Start early, take your place, and inch along in the conga line. Or? Jump on Bourbon St. just next door for an equally fun (but a bit different) day.

Try taking Rain Dance (not listed on this site) as an alternative, 5.10 start to Frogland, just 20ft left of the traditional start. A few bolts and a few sketch-master, flex-madness flakes that you don't want to fall on later, and you just might beat that first no-breakfast team slogging up FL. (I think I've seen Rain Dance graded at 10d in older books, but the Handren guide probably has it right at 10a. So much for MY ego...)

Do start early, though. Can't tell you how many days hiking out BVC we could see headlamps crawling their way down the shit decent long after the sun said good-bye... Apr 1, 2010
At the belay ledge below the traverse under the roof I traversed over 30ft and joined Bourbon St to avoid the HUGE bottle neck of Noobs trying to battle the chock stone. Good choice! May 14, 2010
Out today early, nobody else here the whole day. First 2 pitches were in the sun, but pretty comfortable. The rest of the route was in the shade. A frozen 2 liter bottle of water helps keep the approach comfortable when carried close to the body. Aug 4, 2010
steven sadler
steven sadler   SLC, UT
Did this climb on march 14 and it was amazing. the chock stone pitch was spectacular. Don't belay right above the chockstone though. you'll have rope drag up the final pitch if you do. Pop out and climb up maybe 10 feet and there is a nice pod with awesome pro, belay there and it'll make the last pitch much more enjoyable. Also on the last pitch we didn't climb the 5.4 face to the right. Just went straight up the right facing corner to the left, runout but fun and easy.
Make sure you know how to set up gear anchors and can do it fast because the anchors aren't bolted and you'll have people behind you waiting. Mar 17, 2011
Jon P
Duluth, MN
Jon P   Duluth, MN
This is a nice route for those newer to multiclimbing and is a good warmup for harder climbing in red rocks.

From our experience:

Pitch 1 and 2: Straight forward and nice.

Pitch 3 and 4: We missed the belay ledge after pitch three. Pitch three is short (maybe 90-100 feet). Climb over the bulge on the far left side after the rap anchor. Head up and tend right until you hit a ledge. Belay from there. Follow the crack system back left toward the "crux" traverse under a small roof for pitch four. My partner followed the thin crack up the right side of the crux roof instead of going out the arete which wasn't bad. Look for the Cam #2 and .75 anchor placement just before you hit the little ledge. The ledge doesn't offer much.

Pitch 5: Crux for us was getting to that bolt. You only have to make a move or two of thin climbing before clipping the bolt. Great Cam #2 placement on the left crack just as you enter chockstone.

I would recommend belaying from on top of the chockstone. There is a fixed nut here which can be backed up by good cams.

Pitch 5: To avoid the rope drag issues described in the comment above, make sure to place your cam at the end of the roof and sling the thing!!! Don't be zippering the entire crack up to the roof. Don't be afraid to sling your gear. Slings alleviate rope drag and save your cams from getting pushed deep into cracks.

Face climbing on the left side is suprisingly thin. Just take it slow. A nut can be thrown in the mix here but the protection is poor overall. It gets better as you go.

Have fun! Nov 27, 2011
Patrick Mulligan
Reno, NV
Patrick Mulligan   Reno, NV
I did this climb back in June and the bolt protecting the 5.8 section before the cracks below the chockstone was hanging about 1/3 of an inch out of the rock. The hanger spun freely. Dec 15, 2011
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
someone must have tightened it since then- i did it this fall and it was fine. Dec 15, 2011
Ty Morrison-Heath
Bozeman, MT
  5.8 PG13
Ty Morrison-Heath   Bozeman, MT
  5.8 PG13
A fun romp up Whiskey Peak. I wouldn't say this is a good route for a beginner leader at the 5.8 level. It is heady and the gear takes skill to get. Route finding is somewhat difficult as well with many traverses. That being said if you are a confident 5.8 leader give it a shot! I brought a .3, .4 and .5-3 of c4 Camalots, and a rack of nuts. I felt like this was ample gear and I was linking pitches with a 70 meter. We ended up doing the entire climb in 4 pitches with about 5 ft of simulclimbing on the last pitch. The descent wasn't actually as bad as I expected but bring real shoes and a headlamp if it takes you a while. All anchors are trad with 4 bolts on the entire route. There are good stances for anchors so don't worry about hanging belays. May 7, 2012
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
This is a fun, moderate route with a relaxed feel because of the great belay ledges and good rests between the harder moves. On the first 5.8 pitch (p.4), after protecting below the roof, we stepped way down (at least 15 feet) before traversing over to the arete, which was very easy (5.6) and avoided any sketchy smearing. This still leaves you with one .8 move on the arete, which can be protected (sling it long to minimize drag). A few feet above that, be sure to place a piece on the right wall above the roof to keep the rope from jamming in the apex. The second 5.8 pitch (the chockstone pitch) felt very easy for the grade: up to the bolt (with a good cam just below it), then, with the bolt just below your feet, make easy moves directly left into the obvious crack (straight up above the bolt is harder and less secure). If you don't belay just above the chockstone, watch out for the possibility of getting your rope badly pinched both as it runs past the chockstone and in the notch of the next bulge/roof ten feet up and right of it. Smart gear placements can avoid this. The final pitch up the face right of the big corner is trival (.4) and protects just fine. May 21, 2012
Angie C
Mount Vernon, Wa
Angie C   Mount Vernon, Wa
Did this route on Sept 16, and there wasn't any other parties on the route. An all around fantastic climb. I found that compared to Lake Tahoe and Yosemite climbing, the grade was a little soft for a 5.8, but there were a couple teeny moves, where I thought to my self... "yeah, that feels 5.8"

The roof traverse on the 4th pitch following by the moves right afterwards would qualify as true 5.8. There were less than a handful of other places where I'd say it was 5.8.

Nevertheless, such a cool route. Enjoyed the squeeze through the chockstone. I wore a camelback backpack and it was totally fine for the squeeze. I think a regular sized pack would have been a bit tighter/possibly too tight.

The 4th pitch is basically a traverse pitch, with some upward movement at times. Make sure you protect your follower properly so they do not have to deal with the potential for a super pendulum.

Descent: I expected the walk off to be somewhat treacherous, after having the experience of an unnamed topo guide book from Yosemite tell me some things were simple 3rd class, but in reality were X rated 3rd class (e.g. although it's easy, if you fall you die). Instead, the walk off was decent, as long as you follow the cairns.

Approach: supertopo says the approach is just 30 minutes. Give yourself at least 45. Sep 17, 2012
Jared R
Jared R  
Just did this route on Friday, Sept 21, 2012 and it was fun. There was a loose block about 2 moves after the roof traverse on pitch 4 that looks like a great hold, but would come down with little effort.

The best pitch was the 5th/chockstone pitch because there were a lot of different types of climbing, thin crimps on the slab, chimneying, jamming and slab climbing after the chockstone. The rest of the climb was ok but the 5th pitch made it worth it.

With a 60M rope we climbed the 5th pitch up to the big ledge about 70 ft below the summit, however, there weren't too many placement options for the anchor there. I think that after traversing right, out of the chockstone chimney, there is a better place to belay from than the large ledge from which I belayed. The rope drag was getting pretty bad by the time that I reached the large ledge. Sep 23, 2012
Dan Brockway
Dan Brockway   Boulder
Just did this route and had a great time. The loose block is still about 10 feet after the roof. It does have a chalk X on it but it is big enoug to really be dangerous. (By the way if you put a #1 Black Diamond just above the roof you can keep your rope from jamming in the crack in the roof) Nov 11, 2012
Had the climb to ourselves on Friday morning; arrived at the TH at 0600. Nobody else came up behind us, and only had the sounds of the climbers on Epi and the braying of the burros to serenade us.

A truly stellar climb. P1 was great, P2's crack was a nice surprise, and only had one fixed cam, a .75 BD Camalot in it. The traverse on P4 had a fixed Metolius master cam with about the rattiest sling I've ever seen. You can back it up. The traverse was a heck of a reach, had no rope jamming problems after, watch out for the loose blocks on the left 20' above the traverse and 10' short of the belay(it is not marked).

Epic views of all the parties on Epinephrine. The walk off is straightforward and no more treacherous than everything else in RR, but bring your shoes if you can. Dec 8, 2012
cmonster   Redmond
Ended up stuck behind three extremely slow parties of two and a not so slow party of three on Sunday. Not unexpected we went with the flow, grumbled to ourselves, but were courteous and helpful along the way. Even stopping to redirect and point the way down the gully to the party of three about 1/3 of the way down.
Anyway, we topped out at/around when the moon was illuminating the top pitch. A bit hurried to get down and back I'm fairly certain my partner left behind a #8 curved nut and sling near the chock stone. Up for grabs. Mar 27, 2013
J Mo
Tucson, AZ
  5.8+ PG13
J Mo   Tucson, AZ
  5.8+ PG13
Singles? I ignored all that and took doubles to 3, with a 3rd #2, and was very glad I did. It's gear anchors, yo. And very true in the description that there is some spice at the crux pitches. Great climb! May 29, 2013
Jeff Chrisler
Boulder, CO
Jeff Chrisler   Boulder, CO
September seems to be the month to do this route. After a late night in Vegas, we arrived at the parking lot to see two other cars. One seemed to be a bunch of mountain bikers and the other was likely a party on this route. They were two pitches up and well ahead of us such that we did not catch up. The weather was perfect and we weren't in the sun at all. This was a great route in comfortable conditions! The walkoff adds to the ease and enjoyment of this route. Be sure that if you get a late start to take your time going down as it would be easy to catch a rock or two and take a tumble. Sep 16, 2013
Jared Wicks
Las Vegas
Jared Wicks   Las Vegas
This was a stellar route. Climbed this on Tuesday, Oct 2nd, 2013. There were two other parties on the route but things went really smooth. All of the hangers are still missing from the bolts so plan to build a trad anchor at each belay.

  • **WARNING***
The chimney section on Pitch 3 (if you take the highly recommended variation to the right) has a very large block that is loose/not attached. We marked it as best as we could... It is about halfway up the chimney so beware.

The cairns on the decent are in good order and very straight forward to follow. Highly recommend this route. Oct 4, 2013
Jared Wicks
Las Vegas
Jared Wicks   Las Vegas
Reference JMo's comment above, we took doubles to #3 as well and I'm glad we did. Even with running it out a bit you'll still appreciate the options while still having gear for the anchors. Oct 4, 2013
Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
Couple of thoughts on this route, which was great fun!

1. On P4, there is a way to get around all obstacles at no more than 5.6 or easy 7. From the belay you go up a knobby ramp to an obvious horizontal crack/ledge that you traverse on above the roof by the belay. Tons of chalk on the face below the roof from people who either didn't figure this out or were looking for the hard way up. Last weekend, there was an old fixed cam with some tatty nylon at the start of the roof further up (the one on the skyline in the main beta photo, before you head out on the arete). Clip this, then go low, and again, follow an obvious horizontal crack, this time with your hands in the crack and your feet smearing below. Easy. Moving from under the roof onto the arete was a fantastic and fun balancy move that I thought was one of the most memorable parts of the climb.

2. P5. I don't know what the heck people are talking about all the difficulty of getting to/past the bolt from the start of this pitch. The slabby section is not only easy, but there are ample holds and nubbins for you to grab for balance. Stemming the chimney above the slab was much harder, IMO. If you have any experience on actual friction slab, the "crux slab" will feel like Sierra 4th class to you. Do not make the same stupid mistake I did. If you are wearing a medium-sized or larger pack, take it off before you go under the chockstone! Ha! Trust me, you might wedge yourself in, but upward progress is tough when you're corked in like that!

Enjoy! Oct 16, 2013
Mr. Hummus
SLC, Utah
Mr. Hummus   SLC, Utah
Climbed frogland yesterday and it was great. Generally I like to link pitches, but it doesn't work too well on this route. Even with lots of slings there was tons of rope drag linking 3 and 4, making the delicate moves under the overhang pretty heady. Also the decent gully branches into two gullies. The left most gully requires raps and drops you way further down than you want. Pretty much below black velvet wall requiring a hike back up the hill to your packs at the base of the route. We lost the cairns as it got dark which made the extra long decent less fun. So if you haven't seen cairns in a while it is probably worth your while to backtrack and make sure you're still on the right decent route. Nov 28, 2013
Las Vegas
sqwirll   Las Vegas
If you ended up at the Black Velvet Wall, then you went the wrong way. At the top of the formation, you need to go east instead of west. There are no raps on the standard decent. Nov 29, 2013
Video of rescue on Frogland.

youtube.com/watch?v=up1Hjst… Dec 2, 2013
Mr. Hummus
SLC, Utah
Mr. Hummus   SLC, Utah
Thanks sqwirll. That would have been nice to know. We were descending with another group, who also had unclear beta on the descent. Mtn project just says to follow the cairns, and our guidebooks differed on descent beta. Upon topping out on frogland there was an obvious cairn ten feet to my left. So I started following the cairns and they led us into the gully that drops down right (which would be west) towards black velvet wall. There were lots of cairns most the way down a loose but well traveled trail. Eventually the cairns disappeared and we soon had to rap. So why the hell are there all those cairns if it's not the proper descent route?? Dec 3, 2013
Redstone, CO
Gentrye   Redstone, CO
all female ascent! May 7, 2014
Las Vegas, Nevada
Likeasummerthursday   Las Vegas, Nevada
Great route! Single rack with doubles of .5', 75, 1 and 2 was plenty. Would have used a #3 and #4! But would have used a 5,6...too. Didn't miss them.

P5: a 1 or 2 in the right-hand crack past the chock stone with a sling, plus a cam on the right face over the roof as a directional lets you belay on the huge ledge twenty feet above and over the chock stone with manageable rope drag while keeping the rope out of the chockstone. This makes the belay for the last, easy pitch super chill. Straight up and entirely visible. Manage the rope drag over and around the chockstone with slings and you really don't have to belay on the chockstone. There was a double-basketball size loose block on the face up and right of the chockstone that I could have pulled off. Careful!

Not sure why the first pitch is bolted.

The only truly exposed move felt like the 10 feet on P5 to the bolt overhead. Easy friction climbing, just stay cool to the first bolt. All the jazz about the traverse under the roof didn't ring true for me. Maybe I missed the party, though? I went up about 12 feet, put a bomber #2 over head, then hung up and left in about even increments along the path of least resistance toward the arête. Plenty of (thoughtful) gear if you want it. It is the easiest climbing on the entire five first pitches by far. I didn't go anywhere near the roof until joining the arête.

Great rock on this route. Aug 10, 2014
The road to the trailhead is getting beat up (as of end of October 2014), and driving through the last creek crossing in a sedan is tricky at best. Anything with higher suspension will do, but a rental sedan (we had Camry) will be quite tricky. I have a lot of off-road driving under my belt, but this was marginal at best at the moment. Nov 5, 2014
bart cubrich 1  
I'd second the comment about road conditions. It has not gotten much worse since the last time I got there a year ago, but there is one dip in particular that could a leave a low clearance car with a beat up bumper at best, and whatever the opposite of high centered is at the worst. Jan 18, 2015
HM Scott  
Such an awesome route. I climbed it with Doug Foust on a beautiful Wed in April and there wasn't another soul on Whiskey Peak. Feb 15, 2015
  5.8+ PG13
  5.8+ PG13
Climbed this with Dan D on 8 August. Temps were in the low 90s, and we were in the shade most of the day. The best part----we were the only car in the Black Velvet lot! If you're a local and haven't climbed this classic route, do it in the summer!

The climb itself wasn't too bad, but a few or the moves seemed stout for 5.8. There were also a couple of heads-up sections. Sustained for the grade, a little run-out in places, and very cool climbing. Coming up to, and under, the chockstone was my favorite part!

We climbed the original line, rather than the variation. It was pretty awesome seeing some old, presumably FA, bolts. Aug 22, 2015
Joanna Buffalini
Las Vegas, NV
Joanna Buffalini   Las Vegas, NV
Awesome climb! I led pitch 1,3, 5 and my partner did 2, 4, 6. The belay anchor areas were pretty easy to locate. The toughest part for us was the descent. We went the wrong way and it made for an extra long day. At the top there is an obvious cairn to the left and down the gully heading towards black velvet wall. As a matter of fact there were cairns for quite a way down the gully. The directions on MP say follow the gully and stay to the left which was an accurate description for our descent but I am assuming there is a gully going east that could have the same features. GO EAST! towards the city!!!! We started the descent from Frogland at 6:30 and didn't get back to the truck until 9:30! We got stuck going through the gully and wash in the dark and still having to go back up the brutal hill to the base of FL to retrieve our bags. What a day! Sep 20, 2015
Dan Mathews  
Thought this was a great, varied climb with some cool moves. Really enjoyed it. I did find some of the bolt placements and the pitch 4 route description a bit strange though.

On pitch 1 a bolt is needed halfway up the 30' detached pillar you climb at the beginning, not above the pillar where you have a good crack. The entire pillar is loose and hollow so I wouldn't/didn't place any gear behind it. Pitch 4 has a bolt way out right, which we never went near. I'm not sure why one would climb so far right. In fact, it was easiest to traverse left into the arête crack down low, without ever climbing up to the roof. There is gear on the slab, the rope will run better around the lip of the roof, and your second won't have to down climb from the roof while looking at a pendulum fall to the left. On pitch 5 the bolt should be 2-3 feet lower. if it were, you could clip it before a 5.8 move or two and avoid a long fall potential. It really is a bizarre place for the bolt. You don't want to fall there. Oct 19, 2015
Moab, UT
KB   Moab, UT
I thought that P4 was the crux personally. I would agree that clipping the bolt on P5 is freaky. I am 5'2" and had to really reach from the solid foot holds to push the carabiner onto the bolt (desperate technique), but it was good excitement! The rest of P5 is cruiser, and for red rocks, the whole pitch is probably easier than 5.8. Tunneling thru the chockstone feels super secure and fun. However, I think the rating is fair since you may want to be a solid 5.8 leader so you don't take a death fall before being able to protect yourself at the bolt. I was pretty curious if people ever just climb the crack on P5 that is to the left and ignore the bolt? I couldn't tell what it is like at the bottom of the pitch, I am assuming it must not be pleasant. After clipping the bolt, I traversed to the crack as soon as I could and wondered why it's a sport climb at the bottom... Dec 4, 2015
Exactly what joanna said. Don't follow the cairns going down into the gully heading west. Head down the gully to the east (towards the city).
My partner and I did the same thing. there were some rappels involved and it was 2.5 hours total to get down and back to the car. GO EAST! Dec 16, 2015
So dope.
Didn't feel soft for the grade, esp with freezing temps on xmas eve :) We were mistaken that it may get some sun on the upper pitches. Not unfortunately.
We linked pitches 3 and 4, however tortuous rope drag.
Light rack but brought nuts which were useful. Dec 25, 2015
Chase D
Chase D  
Highly recommend an early start for this climb. It is super popular and will take much longer than expected if there are parties ahead of you. The climbing was super fun and the route-finding was straightforward. Also a bonus that you top out on a summit. The descent takes about 30 minutes. Jan 7, 2016
Las Vegas
Scott360   Las Vegas
Great climb; really fun. Led the odd pitches and want to go back and lead the even ones. Had some pretty good belay ledges (especially top of p5). Used trees for anchors in a couple spots, and at the top of p3 there’s a welded #1 C4 and a sideways hex that were bomber for the anchor. We took a single rack (.1-3) and a set of stopper nuts. Protecting as you get up to the chockstone: if you place pro on the left side, it will reduce rope drag after you get above the chockstone. Also, because of the time of year, no one else was on the route. Climbing in the shade with temps in the mid-90s and low humidity is pretty sweet. Overall good climb; would do it again. WHICH I may have to do (soon), as I dropped an alpine draw at the top of p3. (Seriously, NOT my fault. I thought it was on my harness, and, well, not so much.) SO, if you find it, there’s a case of beer in it for it’s safe return (I’m local and live 10 mins. from the Red Rock loop entrance). Yup, a case. Draw: Petzl Ange silver and blue biners and BD dyneema 60cm sling with black and red Sharpie marks on the bar tack. Aug 8, 2016
Vikram Sahney
Seattle, WA
Vikram Sahney   Seattle, WA
Video from our climb of Frogland. Great route. Missed recording the chockstone though!

youtu.be/d4mtZ0TL3GY Sep 1, 2016
Forever Outside
Los Angeles, CA
Forever Outside   Los Angeles, CA
Excellent route, we heard the frogs several times up there. More interesting than Crimson Crysalis IMHO, varied movements of stemming, jams, thin face, traverses,chimney and a few jams, keeps your attention the whole time. Thought it was pretty stiff and fairly sustained for a RR 5.8, multiple crux moves throughout the day. Pitch 5 definitely the toughest. Makes for an excellent day! Mar 10, 2017
Daniel Melnyk
Daniel Melnyk   Covina
Did on my 3rd day of climbing trad (didn't lead any of the 5.8 pitches). Has a little of everything and all pitches are amazing and all belays are good. Great rock quality.

One the pitch with the giant chock stone (p.5), do not belay on top of it. Continue on a short ways to a lot better belay.

Rack of double cams (BD C4 .3-3 and single nuts is fine) and lets of extrendable draws or slings.

Walk of decent is good, I hate rappelling. Apr 17, 2017
Columbia, SC
rock-fencer   Columbia, SC
bolt is still spinning - also tried to wrench down with nut tool to no avail. May 14, 2017
Nate Upp
Nate Upp  
Fantastic route! I am a dumbass and left my Tan Anasazi VCS size 10 1/2 at the summit. If you happen to find them and they don't fit, give me a call or shoot me a text at (630) 398-0377. I will be in Vegas until 5/31/17, and am happy to come to you. I'll bring a cold 6 pack of your favorite beer.
5/22/17 May 22, 2017
DESCENT BETA: Go east once you top out. Near the bottom of the gully you may be tempted to go straight for the car. Lucky for you there is a trail that does exactly that. As the regular descent trail wraps around the buttress to the left(North) on a red dirt path, there is another trail that splits right and follows cairns downhill. Made it to the P lot in a little over an hour at a casual pace. Nov 7, 2017
Alex Fletcher
Anaheim, CA
Alex Fletcher   Anaheim, CA
As of 1/17/18 there is no pencil in the summit box!! Jan 18, 2018
Nathan Burke
Playa del Rey, CA
Nathan Burke   Playa del Rey, CA
Climbed this back in December and it's absolutely stunning. Well protected when it needs to be, and that airy traverse might be the best part of the entire route. Enjoy the exposure!

Be careful to watch the rope on the last pitch. We failed to manage the rope properly; it was dark out and we were trying to hurry, and we paid the price for it. The rope snagged in the crack above the belay while I was on the lead and we spent a good hour trying to free it. Other than that the last pitch is very runout but it can't be harder than 5.4 slab on perfect sandstone.

Will definitely be back to climb it again! Apr 17, 2018
Sarah Beth
Las Vegas, NV
Sarah Beth   Las Vegas, NV
Amazing Climb - I get the hype! We started the climb at 3 pm for work reasons and did the descent with headlamps. Got to the top when it got dark. Descent was clear because of the Cairns - just watch out for the black widows! The chimney flake was marked with big chalk Xs and someone wrote NO! In chalk on one of the small boulders in the chimney so we assumed this variation was loose and decided to traverse left and send the face to a solid bolt. Pretty exposed until you get to the bolt with no pro so be careful! It’s definitely “exciting”. The bolt right before you do the traverse is super loose and needs tightening and we didn’t have anything to tighten it. The traverse was super fun - just use the small handrail and get your left foot over where the varnish has chipped and you get lots of friction. EXTEND EVERYTHING. We had soooo much fun! Sep 15, 2018
Las Vegas, NV
E IV   Las Vegas, NV
Did this route finally today (Sept 15, 2018). It was ok but I don't get the hype. To each their own. The bolt on pitch 5 is loose - as in the bolt is wiggling in its hole. My partner tried tightening it down but wasn't able to do much - if you're going up soon, consider taking a wrench. He placed an ok gray C4 8 inches above it in a pocket. Sep 15, 2018
William Thiry
Las Vegas
William Thiry   Las Vegas
This is a route good enough to be done every year; one of the best 5.8s in the country. The 1st two pitches are terrific. P2 is especially fun. P3 is a 5.fun cruiser. P4 has the famous traverse which will be a lifetime memory for many people. P5 has the spicy slab start and then the athletic double crack/stemming/chimney workout up to and under the chockstone. P6 has a spoooky runout start but then cruises to the top where you get a spectacular view of Black Velvet Wall. I've climbed Frogland with several people who consider this to be one of the best climbs they've ever done. Sep 22, 2018
Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
Having a selection of small gear is very useful on many sections.

Bolt placements on initial pitches and bolt placements on later pitches seem very contrary in nature. At first, there are bolts essentially next to natural gear and you don't need them. Later, bolts require one to do PG-13 runouts (or don't exist at all where pro doesn't exist either). Terrific route, but I found this perplexing. Oct 9, 2018