Avg: 3.5 from 770 votes
|Type:||Trad, 700 ft, 6 pitches|
|FA:||George & Joanne Urioste, Mike Gilbert|
|Page Views:||72,469 total · 351/month|
|Shared By:||Scott Conner on Mar 9, 2001|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionA great route! And VERY popular. Start early.
For the approach, take the trail that skirts the pink cliff band on the left. Work your way around the cliff band and to the right. Look for a huge roof capping a large slab and make your way to the crack on the right side of this feature. Scramble up a few 4th-class sections to the a nice terrace and the beginning of a LF corner/crack that has a few bolts (why?)...
P1: 5.7, 150' Climb a crack in a block (awkward) to gain the left-facing corner/crack. Climb this for a nice long pitch and belay on the second of two big ledges. Tree anchor.
P2: 5.7, 150' Work right from the belay and climb a lower-angle crack in a LF corner to a ledge. From here (a) Make a few exciting moves out left and up a crack to another ledge. Or (b) continue straight up through a wide overhanging flake/crack section to a small ledge.
P3: 5.6, 100' Work out left into a nice right-facing dihedral, up this, then out right through a small overhang and belay at the base of an obtuse corner with some thin face moves to the right.
The next 3 pitches are PG so be ready for some spice!
P4: 5.8, 140' Climb out left of the thin corner on small edges and thin pro. Gain a decent crack that climbs up to the right side of the giant roof clipping an old pin along the way. Check out the slabby leftward traverse under the roof which marks the crux of the route. Make the delicate moves across to a thin crack and up about 40' to a small belay stance that takes 1.5-3" gear. Awesome!
P5: 5.8, 130' Make some PG face moves up to a bolt. Climb up left to a huge chockstone and tunnel behind it. Work up and right into a right-facing corner and up to a ledge with tricky belay gear.
P6: 5.6, 160'? Work out right onto the face and let the better gear lead your way up to a small bulge at the top. Turn the bulge and head up 5.2 terrain to the top. This pitch is broken up into 2 pitches in the book but we've always done it as one with a 60m rope. Alternatively, follow the corner at about 5.7.
Descent: Follow the cairns. Pick your way over the peak and turn left down the gully leading east. Go down the white rock on the left side of the gully. Take the gully down and to the left and contour around the mountain and back to the base of the climb.