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Routes in North Face
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Amber T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Archaeopteryx T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Bourbon Hangover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Canadian Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Closed on Monday T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cole Essence T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Desert Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Frogland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Geriatrics (aka Ben Dover Beelzebub) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ixtlan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Kenny Laguna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Matzoland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mazatlan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Miss Conception T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Misunderstanding, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Only the Good Die Young T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Open-and-Shut T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Our Father T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Perplexity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Quarantine Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rain Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Return To Forever T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sand Felipe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sandblast T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Tales from the Gripped T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Triassic Sands T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wholesome Fullback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 4,977 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Anthony Anagnostou on Apr 5, 2005 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Amber is a great but little-known route. I got beta from someone who had been on it. i went out and climbed it, had a great time on it, and pass what I know on to you.
The first pitch is shared with Wholesome Fullback, so approach as for that route. The second pitch is classic, with sustained crack to face to layback/chimney moves, and is a four star pitch in my book. The upper two pitches are easier but more serious feeling than I had expected- the top pitch in particular, which turns an exciting roof on absolutely huge horns/jugs which may or may not break off one day, and then tops out on the furthest right tip of the Wholesome Fullback buttress, smack dab in the middle of Black Velvet. Views of the whole canyon, from Triassic to Epinephrine, make the summit a neat spot to hang out before rapping the route on double ropes.
I've made a topo and pitch by pitch beta, which I'll submit as a route photo, so that should clear up any other questions. And finally- perhaps someone who knows of the FA will chip in at some point and tell me what bogus info I'm unwittingly dishing out.
The first pitch is shared with Wholesome Fullback, so approach as for that route. The second pitch is classic, with sustained crack to face to layback/chimney moves, and is a four star pitch in my book. The upper two pitches are easier but more serious feeling than I had expected- the top pitch in particular, which turns an exciting roof on absolutely huge horns/jugs which may or may not break off one day, and then tops out on the furthest right tip of the Wholesome Fullback buttress, smack dab in the middle of Black Velvet. Views of the whole canyon, from Triassic to Epinephrine, make the summit a neat spot to hang out before rapping the route on double ropes.
I've made a topo and pitch by pitch beta, which I'll submit as a route photo, so that should clear up any other questions. And finally- perhaps someone who knows of the FA will chip in at some point and tell me what bogus info I'm unwittingly dishing out.
Protection
Anchors are good double bolts with rings. Face cruxes are protected with good bolts. Rack: tiny to big nuts, with emphasis on small/mediums. TCUs and aliens, cams to 1.5", doubles to 3", and a 3.5. Midsize tricams would go into huecos and might make the upper pitches a little more comfortable.
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