All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > 16-Black Velvet… > Whiskey Peak > N Face

Triassic Sands

Name: Triassic Sands
Rating: 3.8

5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in North Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Amber T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Archaeopteryx T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Bourbon Hangover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Canadian Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Closed on Monday T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Cole Essence T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Desert Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Frogland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Geriatrics (aka Ben Dover Beelzebub) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Ixtlan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Kenny Laguna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Matzoland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Mazatlan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Miss Conception T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Misunderstanding, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Only the Good Die Young T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Open-and-Shut T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Our Father T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Perplexity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Quarantine Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rain Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Return To Forever T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sand Felipe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Sandblast T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Tales from the Gripped T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Triassic Sands T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Wholesome Fullback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade II
FA:	J. Herbst, L. Hamilton, 1972; FFA J. Herbst and many others, 1979
Page Views:	67,283 total · 294/month
Shared By:	George Bell on Feb 20, 2004 · Updates
Admins:	Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

A classic crack climb! Many parties rap after the 2nd or 3rd pitch but the 4th pitch is great also and the descent is relatively quick and simple. From the parking lot, follow the road and then trail into Black Velvet Canyon. Soon the main NE wall of Whiskey peak will be prominent to your left, and this route is 150' right of the offwidth Ixtalan, which is the most obvious crack visible from below.

P1: Climb a left facing corner to a big ledge (5.7, 50'). This pitch could conceivably be combined with the next, but rope drag might be an issue.

P2 (crux): From the left side of the ledge climb the excellent finger crack (aliens work well to protect) over a roof (crux) then continue with 50' of 5.9 hand crack to a bolted belay (this is why you brought all those #2 Camalots). (5.10, 120'). Be sure to save some strength for the hand crack!

P3: A long pitch continues up a steep wall via (mostly thin) cracks and face and ending at another 2 bolt belay (5.8, 160'). This pitch looks harder than 5.8 from below, and is excellent.

P4: Follow a right facing corner past a pointy detached flake (Caution! Do not touch!) to another nice ledge (with a recently installed 2-bolt anchor) (5.10-, 105').

Top Out:

A few hundred feet of 5.6 or below to the top but recommended to break it into smaller chunks to help with communication, especially in windy conditions. There is not an obvious route. You'll (hopefully) end up on a flat section. Look for the "saddle" descent, forward and left. There's some easy downclimbing but you're about 500 feet from an obvious path with cairns. Then just follow the Epinephrine descent back to the car.

Descent: From the summit head east, back towards the parking lot. Scramble down the rightmost of three gullies, and then countour back down to the base of the cliff. Alternatively, two 150' raps will take you from the top of pitch 3 to the ground.

There is an entire chapter about this route in Red Rock Odyssey