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Routes in Whiskey Peak
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Amber T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Archaeopteryx T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bourbon Hangover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Canadian Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cole Essence T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Desert Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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First Grader T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Frogland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Geriatrics (aka Ben Dover Beelzebub) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ixtlan T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Kenny Laguna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Matzoland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mazatlan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Miss Conception T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Misunderstanding, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Only the Good Die Young T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Our Father T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Perplexity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rain Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Return To Forever T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sand Felipe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sandblast T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Tales from the Gripped T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Triassic Sands T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wholesome Fullback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | J. Herbst, L. Hamilton, 1972; FFA J. Herbst and many others, 1979 |
| Page Views: | 49,137 total · 267/month |
| Shared By: | George Bell on Feb 20, 2004 |
| Admins: | Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
A classic crack climb! Many parties rap after the 2nd or 3rd pitch but the 4th pitch is great also and the descent is relatively quick and simple. From the parking lot, follow the road and then trail into Black Velvet Canyon. Soon the main NE wall of Whiskey peak will be prominent to your left, and this route is 150' right of the offwidth Ixtalan, which is the most obvious crack visible from below.
P1: Climb a left facing corner to a big ledge (5.7, 50'). This pitch could conceivably be combined with the next, but rope drag might be an issue.
P2 (crux): From the left side of the ledge climb the excellent finger crack (aliens work well to protect) over a roof (crux) then continue with 50' of 5.9 hand crack to a bolted belay (this is why you brought all those #2 Camalots). (5.10, 120'). Be sure to save some strength for the hand crack!
P3: A long pitch continues up a steep wall via (mostly thin) cracks and face and ending at another 2 bolt belay (5.8, 160'). This pitch looks harder than 5.8 from below, and is excellent.
P4: Follow a right facing corner past a pointy detached flake (Caution! Do not touch!) to another nice ledge (with a recently installed 2-bolt anchor) (5.10-, 105').
Two more easier pitches lead to the top, we might have done this as one long pitch.
Descent: From the summit head east, back towards the parking lot. Scramble down the rightmost of three gullies, and then countour back down to the base of the cliff. Alternatively, two 150' raps will take you from the top of pitch 3 to the ground.
There is an entire chapter about this route in Red Rock Odyssey
P1: Climb a left facing corner to a big ledge (5.7, 50'). This pitch could conceivably be combined with the next, but rope drag might be an issue.
P2 (crux): From the left side of the ledge climb the excellent finger crack (aliens work well to protect) over a roof (crux) then continue with 50' of 5.9 hand crack to a bolted belay (this is why you brought all those #2 Camalots). (5.10, 120'). Be sure to save some strength for the hand crack!
P3: A long pitch continues up a steep wall via (mostly thin) cracks and face and ending at another 2 bolt belay (5.8, 160'). This pitch looks harder than 5.8 from below, and is excellent.
P4: Follow a right facing corner past a pointy detached flake (Caution! Do not touch!) to another nice ledge (with a recently installed 2-bolt anchor) (5.10-, 105').
Two more easier pitches lead to the top, we might have done this as one long pitch.
Descent: From the summit head east, back towards the parking lot. Scramble down the rightmost of three gullies, and then countour back down to the base of the cliff. Alternatively, two 150' raps will take you from the top of pitch 3 to the ground.
There is an entire chapter about this route in Red Rock Odyssey
Around Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO
The only thing I'll add is that a couple of extra hand-sized pieces will make pitches 2 + 3 go a little smoother.
John Mar 8, 2004
Las Vegas, NV
Couple of notes:
1) Theres a rap station at the top of 5 now (if you're willing to spare a carabiner), although if you've gone this high, you might as well top out.
2) The easiest way off the summit is to head to the ridge, then drop down and left into the gully below the saddle between Whiskey Peak and the Velvet Wall. From there, head uphill to the saddle and then walk out via the Frogland descent, or head downhill to reach the base of the Velvet Wall.
3) I'd recommend a double rack, with triples in yellow and blue camalots for this rig. Oct 24, 2005
Las Vegas, NV
Las Vegas, NV
Mar 28, 2006
Boulder, CO
As John posted, we replaced the 3rd and 4th pitch anchors and the pro bolt on pitch 4. Details: the 3rd pitch anchor had 3 bolts, 2 of which had pulled out (a 1/4" split-shaft and a 3/8" Star-Dryvin). I reused the 1/4" hole, patched the 3/8" Star-Dryvin hole, and drilled a new bolt; both are 1/2 x 2.75" stainless 5-pieces. The 3rd bolt is a 3/8" split-shaft bolt without hanger; we didn't have the proper tools to remove this (well, we could have, but that would have risked damaging the rock excessively). I'll try to get back and pull/patch that sooner or later. The rock is not the greatest, and I suspect that even the new 1/2" bolts will loosen in time.
The classic 1/4" Star-Dryvin protection bolt on pitch 4 (photo in Red Rock Odyssey) pulled easily, and I drilled through the lead sleeve with no problem (not something to try if the steel sleeves are still in the hole!). That bolt is also a stainless 1/2" x 2.75" 5-piece.
The funky 5/16" euro bolts on top of pitch 4 were weird, and in a slightly suspect section of rock, so the new bolts are about a foot lower. Those are stainless 3/8" x 2.25" 5-pieces (better rock there), and Anthony Anagnostou helped hand-drill them.
Thanks to Constantine Severis and Anthony for helping out with the replacement! And to the video guys who let me jug their lines to pitch 3, that sped things up. Greg Barnes Apr 10, 2006
Sacramento, CA
Overall the best rock at redrocks I have done so far!!! Can I give a climb 5 stars! It'll be interesting someday when the flake or lodged rocks on pitch 4 come off. Apr 12, 2006
Olympia, WA
Arvada
Bend, OR
The crux of P2 is pumpy, but ample chalk leads the way... Aliens/TCUs protect the business portion of the crux, with a #1 or #2 camalot to finish.
Once past the crux, expect 100+ feet of 5.8 handcrack, with one little section of 5.9. Outside of a short thin section(the 5.9 bit), pretty much #2 and #3 camalots the entire way in the hand crack... so either have plenty of those cams or expect to run it out. I brought a #4 camalot, and got it in on P2 and P3, but a #3.5 would have been better.
P3 is fun, good gear, with a fun little chimney-ish finish.
P4 looks rad! Next time....
Two double raps to the ground. If the belay atop P2 is taken, there is a a bomber set of chains just down and left of the belay that can be used for descent. Apparently the bolt line below this anchor is a 10a sport route. Looks fun too. Nov 10, 2008
Salt Lake City, UT
Nevada
REFLECTION TWO YEARS LATER: as i've settled into the tens i tend to think that triassic sands is fully soft. the 4th pitch is a more imaginative OS but has so many rest stances. the 2nd pitch (best combined with 1st i feel, sets up a happier belay situation) is a one move wonder and might be graded 5.9 in paradise forks. still an incredible climb but i think an exciting, exposed 10a is more accurate. Apr 21, 2009
Flagstaff, AZ
Henderson, Nevada
Oak Park, CA
P4 is really really good. Wild. Fantastic. Do it.
FYI: almost got one of our half ropes stuck rapping from top of P4 to top of P3, with long loops having slipped into a splitter and down through, at about 3/4 of the way down, blocking the rest of the rap. Took some effort to work the loops out. There was a scrap strand just below ours, cut from the stuck rope of a previous party. In hindsight, best to rap this pitch with the ends (or intermediate pts as well) clipped to the harness. Apr 7, 2011
Nevada
grazie!
jon Jun 2, 2011
Las Vegas, NV
Nevada
jon Jun 7, 2011
Longmont, CO
Longmont, CO
Salt Lake city
anchorage, alaska
My vote was for not replacing the bolt just above the Fang, when I first did the route this was a hand-removable star dryvin that was pretty entertaining.
What may not be obvious to out-of-towners who come here to climb "classics" is that most if not all of these routes used to have giant deathblocks, friable holds everywhere, and, in the case of Triassic, were established before the Age Of Cams, using direct aid on pitons with some frequency.
The bolt isn't necessary NOW, when anyone with a #1 camalot can slam it in and surf the Deathboard with (relative) safety, I bet when they were creeping up that thing back before a five piece bolt had even been invented, that little bit of reassurance went a long way towards psychological buffering for the task of chucking a few dozen bowling-ball sized chunks of sandstone off the Fang so that the creaky bastard could be stood upon. Historical perspecive, sir. Dec 3, 2011
And if you happen to find and get out a number 4 in the first pitch which I over-cammed as I was walking it up, I would love to get it back as it was my new found partner's piece and he worked on it for quite awhile with no success. I will make a donation in your name to a charity. Thanks so much. cmcdsmith@hotmail.com Mar 19, 2012
Anchor is now 2 stainless 1/2 inch with Fixe ASCA ring hangers. All holes patched.
The upper anchors still need some attention to remove old studs from previous incarnations. We didn't have the necessary tools with us, but hope to return and finish the job. Aug 5, 2012
SLC
NEVADASTAN
P2 anchors are really effing high (perhaps due to rope pull on rappel?)...I'm 5'7 and it was a stretch for me. Absolutely stellar route, I mean...jesus, does it get much better than this?!?!!? If you are considering climbing this and are looking at it on MP, go climb it. Seriously. Bring lots of 2's and 3's - we had 3 each, 4 would not go unused. Feb 5, 2013
Idyllwild, CA
Marbach
The loose shark fin in pitch 4 has been stabilised with a small bolder, now it is fixed and doesn't move if you don't pull sidewards.....For me seems pretty safe, unless you don't really need it...... May 10, 2013
Grand Junction
That big fang will never come out. Many, many happy climbers comfortably free this route every year. All of them accept that climbing desert sandstone involves the occasional loose block, on trade routes. Try a few looser, less traveled routes and see if you find Triassic scary. For instance, in terms of loose rock/bad rock, on a scale of one to ten, Triassic is a one, and Community Pillar would be a six.
I've done Triassic a dozen times, replaced bolts on it, chucked loose rock off. The Fang is rather boringly stable these days. It used to be fun when it seesawed around under body weight. Jan 3, 2014
CO
Vegas VaG, I did not find CP to be particularly loose, but then I was admittedly in a relationship at the time... Maybe others have had different experiences...
Also, FWIW, the only person I know that could be considered a "choss park superintendent" would be Mike McHugh, and I feel like he would be pretty excited about the (titular) upgrade. Cheers, Mike. Jan 5, 2014
NEVADASTAN
Reno, NV
Bridgton, ME
Reno, NV
Bridgton, ME
Davis, CA
Boulder, CO
camp4.wordpress.com/2015/05… May 21, 2015
Around Boulder, CO
Denver, CO
Wenatchee, WA
What I haven't seen commented on are the many detached blocks sitting there above the dagger that people are obviously yarding on judging by the amount of chalk on them. These rocks would be just as lethal as the dagger and every bit as capable of pulling loose if pulled hard enough. But judging by the previous comments, maybe I'm exaggerating. Just my experience in WA. If a block looks detached and loose, it will probably come flying out.
Also, the bolted anchor at the top of the third pitch is very loose! You rap off these, so beware! I could move both bolts easily with my fingers. Oct 25, 2015
Trois-Rivières, QC
SLC, UT
Phoenix, AZ
_from 4th to 3rd pitch, we had about extra 20' feet of rope left (on both sides)
_from 3rd to 2nd, barely enough but will get you to the bolted anchors safely
_from 2nd to 1st. veer right and get off the big ledge. dont pass this - your rope will be about 20' short to the ground. walk towards the right end of the ledge, there is a bomber rap ring slung on a horn
as always, TIE THE END OF YOUR ROPE before rapping down! Mar 21, 2016
California
P1: Surprise! It's X-rated without big cams. Thankfully very easy. (5.7)
P2: Does it get any better than this?!? The crux is awesome and exposed, and leads into one of the dreamiest hand cracks I've ever seen. Bring as many #2 cams as you've got. (5.10)
P3: Very fun face climbing with lots of gear options! (5.8)
P4: The Indian Creek splitter corner! There are some REALLY nice hand jams on this pitch. It's easier to exit the roof on the left instead of right. (5.10-)
P5 + P6: Would recomment simul-climbing or soloing these pitches. Super fun alpine-style scrambling with phenomenal scenery! (easy 5th)
Fang report: At the time of my writing, the deathly Fang rotates at the slightest touch. That being said, I agree with other sensible folks that there is very little risk of it coming dislodged in the immediate future. Either way, avoiding it is really not an issue. Nov 14, 2016
NEVADASTAN
1. The rap from top of 4 to top of 3 is casual.
2. The rap from top of 3 to top of 2 is a legitimate rope stretcher. Make sure you have a true, full 80 meter rope...and be prepared for a very, very slim margin for error in a highly exposed position. TIE KNOTS IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE. Stretch gets you there and not much more. Be ready to grab the ends when the second person is done rapping, I would imagine if the second person lets go and nobody has 'em...some very high stakes shenanigans would ensue. Probably not a fun thing.
3. Rapping from the top of pitch 2 down to the top of Pitch 1 of Sand Felipe is a good option, and certainly possible for those with less than an 80 meter rope (ie: if wanting to climb the crux pitch and nothing else.) The rap anchor mentioned by weekend bandit on the ledge atop P1 (the 5.7 pitch) comes and goes...the anchor atop P1 of Sand Felipe does not. Keep in mind courtesy relative to folks climbing that route, of course.
4. If rapping from Sand Felipe's first pitch anchor (not the one about 15 ft down and 15 ft to the climbers' left of the P2 anchor for Triassic, the one below that), this is your final rap. Rap 90' to the deck.
Hope this helps folks. Mar 16, 2017
Las Vegas, NV
Santa Fe, NM
Also, someone overcammed and lost 3 brand new BD ultralight .4 cams in the crux??? I tried to clean them out on the way down, gave up and just pushed them further in so they are not clogging the route. Someone with a longer piece of stiff wire (maybe 2?) might go try to score some nice gear-- its a bit unsightly and would be nice to remove them. May 15, 2017
This makes it harder for others to remove (either by keeping the gear intact or destructively in order to simply clean up the climb). Jun 4, 2017
Bozeman, MT
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Boise, ID
Gear: x2 .4-1 3 #2 and 1 #4
P4 my buddy barely rubbed up against the death block under the roof and it moved a good bit, with scary grinding noises...be careful of this thing. Sounds like its ready to go. Feb 21, 2018
Torrance, CA
If anyone found a #2 BD Camalot (pre-C4, no thumb loop) with two orange dots on the metal between the lobes, I would love to hear from you. It disappeared on Sunday 4/15.
...No idea how it didn't end up in either rack or pack, but missing the old friend dearly. Thanks a million!
That said, the route isn't too bad with a single #2, as long as you bring 2-3 #3's and don't mind running out secure jamming. Fun route. Apr 16, 2018
Las Vegas, NV
The amount of fixed gear on the crux of this route is kind of ridiculous and it's obvious it's coming from people belaying on the ledge right of the crux. May 20, 2018
Las Vegas, NV
Flagstaff, AZ
As for gear, my prefect rack was:
x1 blue metolious
Singles .3-.75 BD
x2 #1BD
x3 #2 and #3 BD
6 runners Sep 27, 2018
Phila, PA
AZ