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Routes in Whiskey Peak

Amber T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archaeopteryx T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bourbon Hangover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Canadian Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cole Essence T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Desert Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Grader T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Frogland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geriatrics (aka Ben Dover Beelzebub) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ixtlan T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kenny Laguna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Matzoland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mazatlan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Conception T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Misunderstanding, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Only the Good Die Young T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Our Father T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Perplexity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rain Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Return To Forever T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sand Felipe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sandblast T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tales from the Gripped T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triassic Sands T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wholesome Fullback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: J. Herbst, L. Hamilton, 1972; FFA J. Herbst and many others, 1979
Page Views: 46,238 total · 259/month
Shared By: George Bell on Feb 20, 2004 with updates from John Hegyes
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


A classic crack climb! Many parties rap after the 2nd or 3rd pitch but the 4th pitch is great also and the descent is relatively quick and simple. From the parking lot, follow the road and then trail into Black Velvet Canyon. Soon the main NE wall of Whiskey peak will be prominent to your left, and this route is 150' right of the offwidth Ixtalan, which is the most obvious crack visible from below.

P1: Climb a left facing corner to a big ledge (5.7, 50'). This pitch could conceivably be combined with the next, but rope drag might be an issue.
P2 (crux): From the left side of the ledge climb the excellent finger crack (aliens work well to protect) over a roof (crux) then continue with 50' of 5.9 hand crack to a bolted belay (this is why you brought all those #2 Camalots). (5.10, 120'). Be sure to save some strength for the hand crack!
P3: A long pitch continues up a steep wall via (mostly thin) cracks and face and ending at another 2 bolt belay (5.8, 160'). This pitch looks harder than 5.8 from below, and is excellent.
P4: Follow a right facing corner past a pointy detached flake (Caution! Do not touch!) to another nice ledge (with a recently installed 2-bolt anchor) (5.10-, 105').
Two more easier pitches lead to the top, we might have done this as one long pitch.

Descent: From the summit head east, back towards the parking lot. Scramble down the rightmost of three gullies, and then countour back down to the base of the cliff. Alternatively, two 150' raps will take you from the top of pitch 3 to the ground.

There is an entire chapter about this route in Red Rock Odyssey


Usual stoppers plus a generous selection of cams with extras in the hand crack range (three or even four #2 Camalots or #3-#3.5 Friends are ideal).
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Despite being one of the shorter climbs in this canyon, (only 3 pitches are usually done...) this is a wonderful route fully deserving of classic status.As well, the 5.10 grade is about right for Redrocks, but be advised that the climb will feel soft for the grade relative to most other areas. Feb 27, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
The latest electronic SuperTopo guide has some great history on the first ascent and free attempts of this route, and they call it the first "real" rock climb of any significant length in Red Rocks. Evidently Randal Grandstaff did the first free lead of the crux. I have no affiliation with these guides and I highly recommend their Red Rock guide, although they have upped the price a bit. Cool photos too! Mar 3, 2004
As the guys say, a classic climb! Don't skip pitch 4 - it's another good one.

The only thing I'll add is that a couple of extra hand-sized pieces will make pitches 2 + 3 go a little smoother.

John Mar 8, 2004
Do yourself a favor and climb the 4th pitch. It is one of the best crack/corner pitches I've done in Red Rocks and is much more sustained at about 5.10 than the lower pitches. When I climbed it we summited, but there were fixed bolts at the top of the 4th pitch. I still can't figure out how people stop on the top of the third pitch after looking at the beautiful corner above. Sep 7, 2005
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
Really amazing climb, probably the best crack climb i've done at Red Rock! It's a crime not to at least climb the fourth pitch, but you really should top out. After a climb that amazing, a summit is in order- rappelling it just seems wrong to me.

Couple of notes:

1) Theres a rap station at the top of 5 now (if you're willing to spare a carabiner), although if you've gone this high, you might as well top out.

2) The easiest way off the summit is to head to the ridge, then drop down and left into the gully below the saddle between Whiskey Peak and the Velvet Wall. From there, head uphill to the saddle and then walk out via the Frogland descent, or head downhill to reach the base of the Velvet Wall.

3) I'd recommend a double rack, with triples in yellow and blue camalots for this rig. Oct 24, 2005
Chad Umbel
Las Vegas, NV
Chad Umbel   Las Vegas, NV
This is one high quality route. Bring extra cams from 2-3 inches unless you like to watch the rope dangle far beneath your feet. A must do Red Rocks Classic. Jan 2, 2006
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
Hey folks, a quick note from the ASCA- this route's anchors on the top of the 3rd and 4th pitch were replaced on March 27th, 2006. The protection bolt on the 4th pitch was also replaced.

Mar 28, 2006
Chris Weber
Boulder, CO
Chris Weber   Boulder, CO
I'd recommended doing pitch 4 and then rapping...single rope rap as I recall from there, then a double?...we combined p2 and 3 as well. if you're solid on cracks, no need to bring more than doubles. Caveat emptor. Apr 5, 2006
Finally joined this site, Larry didn't even pressure me!

As John posted, we replaced the 3rd and 4th pitch anchors and the pro bolt on pitch 4. Details: the 3rd pitch anchor had 3 bolts, 2 of which had pulled out (a 1/4" split-shaft and a 3/8" Star-Dryvin). I reused the 1/4" hole, patched the 3/8" Star-Dryvin hole, and drilled a new bolt; both are 1/2 x 2.75" stainless 5-pieces. The 3rd bolt is a 3/8" split-shaft bolt without hanger; we didn't have the proper tools to remove this (well, we could have, but that would have risked damaging the rock excessively). I'll try to get back and pull/patch that sooner or later. The rock is not the greatest, and I suspect that even the new 1/2" bolts will loosen in time.

The classic 1/4" Star-Dryvin protection bolt on pitch 4 (photo in Red Rock Odyssey) pulled easily, and I drilled through the lead sleeve with no problem (not something to try if the steel sleeves are still in the hole!). That bolt is also a stainless 1/2" x 2.75" 5-piece.

The funky 5/16" euro bolts on top of pitch 4 were weird, and in a slightly suspect section of rock, so the new bolts are about a foot lower. Those are stainless 3/8" x 2.25" 5-pieces (better rock there), and Anthony Anagnostou helped hand-drill them.

Thanks to Constantine Severis and Anthony for helping out with the replacement! And to the video guys who let me jug their lines to pitch 3, that sped things up. Greg Barnes Apr 10, 2006
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
I did the route a couple of days ago and assume GB had already been there since all the anchors were big and beefy. Still I would have liked the star bolt to have been left for historical purposes.

Overall the best rock at redrocks I have done so far!!! Can I give a climb 5 stars! It'll be interesting someday when the flake or lodged rocks on pitch 4 come off. Apr 12, 2006
Great Climb! Combined 1 and 2 without any problems. I found it to be perfect hands from the low crux to end of 3. Hexes worked very well. Pitch 4 was amazing, my partner dubiously slung the diving board, stepped up and got this huge grin on his face when he saw the bolt! A climb we'll do again I'm sure. One 60m rope rappell from top of 4 to 3 (29 meters!) then 2 double rope raps May 4, 2006
Danny Inman
Danny Inman   Arvada
spectacular route! I followed this with Wholesome fullback and thought Triassic Sands was easier IMHO. Oct 10, 2006
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Classic stuff! We only had opportunity for the first three pitches (late start w/ approaching darkness). Too bad, as P4 looks like an awesome Indian Creek style corner.

The crux of P2 is pumpy, but ample chalk leads the way... Aliens/TCUs protect the business portion of the crux, with a #1 or #2 camalot to finish.

Once past the crux, expect 100+ feet of 5.8 handcrack, with one little section of 5.9. Outside of a short thin section(the 5.9 bit), pretty much #2 and #3 camalots the entire way in the hand crack... so either have plenty of those cams or expect to run it out. I brought a #4 camalot, and got it in on P2 and P3, but a #3.5 would have been better.

P3 is fun, good gear, with a fun little chimney-ish finish.

P4 looks rad! Next time....

Two double raps to the ground. If the belay atop P2 is taken, there is a a bomber set of chains just down and left of the belay that can be used for descent. Apparently the bolt line below this anchor is a 10a sport route. Looks fun too. Nov 10, 2008
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
Incredible route. Top it out! Pitch 4 is not to be missed - (though my belayer told me after that the block on the left was loose it felt solid when pulled down on). Good anchors. We brought trips in #2 & #3 camalot, plenty of stopper options, should have left the 4 at home. Apr 8, 2009
Jon O'Brien
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
Agreed, the rating is soft if you only do the first 3 pitches... the real climbing is on pitch 4: definitely harder than pitch 2 (and better!) Rumors of a dangerous 4th pitch are not accurate, just avoid the diving board block before the corner, i'm big and clumsy and had no problem avoiding it.. :-)

REFLECTION TWO YEARS LATER: as i've settled into the tens i tend to think that triassic sands is fully soft. the 4th pitch is a more imaginative OS but has so many rest stances. the 2nd pitch (best combined with 1st i feel, sets up a happier belay situation) is a one move wonder and might be graded 5.9 in paradise forks. still an incredible climb but i think an exciting, exposed 10a is more accurate. Apr 21, 2009
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
Wow. Best route I've done in RR? Definitely do not miss the 4th pitch - it was fantastically fun. Not quite as hard as the 2nd pitch crux, IMO. The giant shark fin block was a little scary; it seemed solid vertically, but when touched it moved a few inches to the left. I don't think it's going anywhere though. I still can't quite get over how much fun this route was. Oct 17, 2010
Doug Foust
Henderson, Nevada
Doug Foust   Henderson, Nevada
My new favorite climb in Red Rock. The climbing above the fourth pitch is not 4th class like the Handren book states. Although not difficult, the routefinding, fragile/lichen covered rock, loose rock, detached blocks, and potential rope drag make for some thoughtful leading. Once to the top you can stay high and head straight towards Whiskey Peak eventually passing just to right where you will end up on the frogland descent just up above the saddle. Nov 1, 2010
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
P2 felt the hardest, starting with pumpy athletic fun, leading to continuous hand jamming joy, or juggy edges if one prefers.

P4 is really really good. Wild. Fantastic. Do it.

FYI: almost got one of our half ropes stuck rapping from top of P4 to top of P3, with long loops having slipped into a splitter and down through, at about 3/4 of the way down, blocking the rest of the rap. Took some effort to work the loops out. There was a scrap strand just below ours, cut from the stuck rope of a previous party. In hindsight, best to rap this pitch with the ends (or intermediate pts as well) clipped to the harness. Apr 7, 2011
Phil Esra
Phil Esra  
4th pitch is the best pitch on the route. can rap from p4. 4 stars. Apr 25, 2011
Jon O'Brien
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
anyone able to comment accurately on when she goes into the shade this time of year?


jon Jun 2, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
jon- triassic faces much more north northwest than frogland, so i'm not sure it sees much sun at all, even in the summer months- maybe the second pitch might see a bit of sun in the early morning, but i dont know that i've ever seen it in sun in the morning. Jun 2, 2011
Jon O'Brien
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
word, gracias amigo!

jon Jun 7, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
Route sees very little sun. It was in the shade all day (10am through the whole day on Sept. 20) and was a pleasant climb overall. The crux pitch is a bit heady, not too sustained and the hand crack that follows is super. The Handren book is misleading as to how long the last pitch is. I'd say it's more in the 350-400 ft. length and the moves off the anchors after the 4th pitch are definitely still in the 5th class range. Roughly 5.6. Be careful. The top out is exceptional! Sep 21, 2011
Longmont, CO
cslice   Longmont, CO
This route is one of my top 3 at Red Rocks. The crux moves on pitch 2 are a bit challenging but the pro is excellent. I would definitely recommend 4 #2s and at least 4 #3 Camalots for this really long pitch, and save a few of the #3s for the top unless you don't mind running out 5-9 splitter crack climbing section. Leave anything beyond a #3 at won't need it. The 4th pitch is more fun than hard. Oct 12, 2011
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Stellar 3 pitch climb. Pitch 1 is awesome with good feet for stances, and the 90 foot hand crack after is sweet! 3 each yellow and blue camalots. Ends on a small but adequate ledge. Pitch 2 is easy 5.8 patina/crack action up a fun hand crack with a rightward traverse to a corner, that ends on a fat ledge. Pitch 3's shark fin sword cantilever beam action is scary to behold as it could easily kill your belayer if it pulled. Look above the small bulge for the bomber bolt to protect this move. Highly recommend going up and over on this one as rapelling will likely require reclimbing a pitch to get your rope unstuck from the classic red rock rope kidnapping patina. Nov 28, 2011
clint helander
anchorage, alaska
clint helander   anchorage, alaska
What's up with the completely unnecessary bolt on pitch 3? It's right next to a splitter hand crack. Weak sauce. We didn't clip it. There's no need. Dec 1, 2011
The pro bolt on pitch 3 is of mysterious origin, how often does one stumble upon Bluewater stainless hangers floating around? The reason it was put in isn't hard to figure out, clint-the "splitter" you're talking about is a huge wedged hollow block that makes funky sounds when touched. While it's unlikely that even a fat bastard could pull the thing out under body weight, a big fall on gear placed beside it would shift it and probably pull the gear or worse.

My vote was for not replacing the bolt just above the Fang, when I first did the route this was a hand-removable star dryvin that was pretty entertaining.

What may not be obvious to out-of-towners who come here to climb "classics" is that most if not all of these routes used to have giant deathblocks, friable holds everywhere, and, in the case of Triassic, were established before the Age Of Cams, using direct aid on pitons with some frequency.

The bolt isn't necessary NOW, when anyone with a #1 camalot can slam it in and surf the Deathboard with (relative) safety, I bet when they were creeping up that thing back before a five piece bolt had even been invented, that little bit of reassurance went a long way towards psychological buffering for the task of chucking a few dozen bowling-ball sized chunks of sandstone off the Fang so that the creaky bastard could be stood upon. Historical perspecive, sir. Dec 3, 2011
Yes, make sure you have a few #2s (they weren't kidding) and save them for after the crux. The crack above isn't hard, just scary if you can't protect it and are tip-toeing around on bits of rock wondering if they'll break off.

And if you happen to find and get out a number 4 in the first pitch which I over-cammed as I was walking it up, I would love to get it back as it was my new found partner's piece and he worked on it for quite awhile with no success. I will make a donation in your name to a charity. Thanks so much. Mar 19, 2012
Anchor replaced on Pitch 2. One of the Rawl shorty bolts that made up the 3 bolt anchor snapped at the threads under hand pressure while removing.

Anchor is now 2 stainless 1/2 inch with Fixe ASCA ring hangers. All holes patched.

The upper anchors still need some attention to remove old studs from previous incarnations. We didn't have the necessary tools with us, but hope to return and finish the job. Aug 5, 2012
Sean C
Sean C   SLC
Pitch 4 is a must do. Crux on the 2nd is easy and only a couple moves long. Also be very careful where you throw the ropes when repelling. Got our ropes stuck twice in the cracks, almost to the point of having to cut one. Sep 17, 2012
Weston L
Great route, climbed the first few pitches back in November.

P2 anchors are really effing high (perhaps due to rope pull on rappel?)...I'm 5'7 and it was a stretch for me. Absolutely stellar route, I mean...jesus, does it get much better than this?!?!!? If you are considering climbing this and are looking at it on MP, go climb it. Seriously. Bring lots of 2's and 3's - we had 3 each, 4 would not go unused. Feb 5, 2013
The cemented sands that have lingered so long as to provide so much fabulous movement are merely Jurassic, not Triassic. The projecting flake and jammed blocks low on pitch four feel secure enough to use for the next less-yawning stretch of time, and besides, there awaits an obscure bolt, so you can jam instead of cam. Apr 25, 2013
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
For those who care, it is barely possible to rappel from the top of pitch 3 to the top of pitch 2 with a single 80m rope. You will not make it to the rappel anchors out left at the top of Felipe, but if you leave your second rope here above the crux pitch you'll be fine. Apr 28, 2013
Pitty   Marbach
we climbed it today, absolutely superb!!!
The loose shark fin in pitch 4 has been stabilised with a small bolder, now it is fixed and doesn't move if you don't pull sidewards.....For me seems pretty safe, unless you don't really need it...... May 10, 2013
Second pitch is only 5.9 if you french the crux...a few stiff pulls and you're cruisin the bomber handcrack. There, i said it. Oct 23, 2013
^^^^THAT is some funny shit. Ev, in your world is there some choss park superintendant that is the person in charge of loose rock maintenance and/or shoring up?

That big fang will never come out. Many, many happy climbers comfortably free this route every year. All of them accept that climbing desert sandstone involves the occasional loose block, on trade routes. Try a few looser, less traveled routes and see if you find Triassic scary. For instance, in terms of loose rock/bad rock, on a scale of one to ten, Triassic is a one, and Community Pillar would be a six.

I've done Triassic a dozen times, replaced bolts on it, chucked loose rock off. The Fang is rather boringly stable these days. It used to be fun when it seesawed around under body weight. Jan 3, 2014
smassey   CO
This may be the funniest thing I have seen in awhile. Thank you Ev, and of course Senor VaG, for keeping me entertained. Uh, Ev, if you're unfamiliar with American public land management, there's this thing called "Wilderness", and it's designated by our beloved Congress, and this particular route happens to fall within one of them. Typically within "Wilderness", there's no "choss police" or "trammeling" (actions that reflect the hand of man, in case you slept through HS English). Hence, no one "official" is concerned that there is a "loose" block on Route Blah Blah Blah. Or unofficial for that matter... You are free to come and go, and live or die, as you have the knowledge, skills, and ability to...

Vegas VaG, I did not find CP to be particularly loose, but then I was admittedly in a relationship at the time... Maybe others have had different experiences...

Also, FWIW, the only person I know that could be considered a "choss park superintendent" would be Mike McHugh, and I feel like he would be pretty excited about the (titular) upgrade. Cheers, Mike. Jan 5, 2014
Yo just thought I'd throw it out there, climbed this just before new years, the tooth and the two blocks holding it in place rotated about 20-30 degrees when my buddy pushed against it, so be careful aka don't place any gear before the bolt as it would def. sever the rope... but in the words of Mr. Coyne, 'its no drama' just a bit of dynamic rock climbing Jan 15, 2014
Weston L
The 4th pitch really is fantastic. Don't be scared by all of the babble about the diving board...tread carefully and be rewarded with glory above. Enjoy and be safe! Jul 26, 2014
Patrick Mulligan
Reno, NV
Patrick Mulligan   Reno, NV
The fourth pitch is by far the best of the climb IMHO. The Long crack pitches are fun but monotonous and the crux is a 2 move wonder. The fourth pitch has the most consistent and interesting climbing. It would be a waste to skip it. Its been years since I've last done it, but the climb to the top was fun as well and allows you to skip through the multiple parties often on the route. Aug 20, 2014
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
I hear so much about the nasty "death-block-fang-thingy." If it's so dangerous, why doesn't some local go up on a quiet day and just get rid of the thing? In our area (White Mountains, NH), when we hear about this stuff, someone typically just goes up and deals with it. Seems like an obvious thing to do that would be in everyone's best interest. Safety first, right? (And no, I'm not trying to eliminate the risk inherent to our sport or stir up trouble, this just seems like a no-brainer). Feb 19, 2015
Patrick Mulligan
Reno, NV
Patrick Mulligan   Reno, NV
Peter - I think that is because the local climbing community has a better understanding of rock quality and safety of trundling,etc. than visiting climbers who get nervous about sandstone. Sometimes stuff simply breaks on its own with no warning, but that block is both easily avoided and way more solid than it looks. It was basically the same 16 years ago as it is now even with all the traffic and given both the challenge of finding a clear base area (not just at the base of the climb but the slope / trail far below) and the potential to further route damage below the local community obviously and simply doesn't see the need to trundle the thing. Mar 11, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
Yup, got it. Thanks for the update! We've got some stuff here, too, that's been suspect forever but is really okay. Haven't done Triassic Sands yet, but next trip probably. We'll tread lightly anyway. Kinda wish I was in RR now, come to think of it, since it's been snowing here for the last three days! Apr 7, 2015
Davis, CA
csproul   Davis, CA
Truly a classic route. However, there are some loose blocks and questionable flakes. Especially the flake looming at the start of the 4th pitch. Very hard to avoid standing on it, it's huge, it moves, and is right over your careful! Apr 22, 2015
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
I solo toproped this route (from the top) today and had a blast. Took 5 hours car-to-car including a bunch of scrambling at the top to figure things out. The top of the route isn't obvious. There is 225 feet of 5th class climbing above the P4 anchor, which I did in 2 raps. I posted some detailed beta on my blog in case anyone else wants to try it:… May 21, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Skipping the 4th pitch would be a darn shame. It's as good as anything else! May 29, 2015
Connor Newman
Reno, NV
Connor Newman   Reno, NV
Go to the top of Whiskey Peak! This involves 2 pitches of easy (5.6) but fun climbing beyond pitch 4, with a little exposure. The descent from the summit takes maybe 25-30 minutes, which might be faster than the raps depending on how much those great Red Rock flakes grab your rope. Jun 1, 2015
Wenatchee, WA
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
Mind blowingly great route! The 4th pitch is a must do, but mildly terrifying due to the teetering death flake. I accidentally leaned against it and it swiveled about a foot. There is a bolt just up and right of the dagger so you don't have to place any gear on it near it.

What I haven't seen commented on are the many detached blocks sitting there above the dagger that people are obviously yarding on judging by the amount of chalk on them. These rocks would be just as lethal as the dagger and every bit as capable of pulling loose if pulled hard enough. But judging by the previous comments, maybe I'm exaggerating. Just my experience in WA. If a block looks detached and loose, it will probably come flying out.

Also, the bolted anchor at the top of the third pitch is very loose! You rap off these, so beware! I could move both bolts easily with my fingers. Oct 25, 2015
yann gauthier
Trois-Rivières, QC
yann gauthier   Trois-Rivières, QC
Do pitch 4 , one # 3 camelot and smaller, leave the rest on the ledge for pitch 4 Nov 19, 2015
Just wanted to echo that it would be a shame if you didnt do pitch 4. Its the best one on the route in my opinion. So good! Nov 24, 2015
Michael Dom  
The belay from the start of the second pitch sucks. If you can, extend it for the sake of your leader. Dec 22, 2015
Kevin D
Phoenix, AZ
Kevin D   Phoenix, AZ
Do pitch 4. Really fun and different style. We went to the top of whisky peak (2 5th class pitches) but I think rapping would have been much faster as long as your rope doesn't snag. Also you can get by with 2 #2 and 2#3 if you are creative with slinging horns, nuts, horizontal placements etc. Mar 13, 2016
one 80m rope will get you down.
_from 4th to 3rd pitch, we had about extra 20' feet of rope left (on both sides)
_from 3rd to 2nd, barely enough but will get you to the bolted anchors safely
_from 2nd to 1st. veer right and get off the big ledge. dont pass this - your rope will be about 20' short to the ground. walk towards the right end of the ledge, there is a bomber rap ring slung on a horn

as always, TIE THE END OF YOUR ROPE before rapping down! Mar 21, 2016
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
Triassic Sands is a strong candidate for the best multi-pitch route in Red Rock. Those obsessed with crack climbing will be obliged to agree.

P1: Surprise! It's X-rated without big cams. Thankfully very easy. (5.7)
P2: Does it get any better than this?!? The crux is awesome and exposed, and leads into one of the dreamiest hand cracks I've ever seen. Bring as many #2 cams as you've got. (5.10)
P3: Very fun face climbing with lots of gear options! (5.8)
P4: The Indian Creek splitter corner! There are some REALLY nice hand jams on this pitch. It's easier to exit the roof on the left instead of right. (5.10-)
P5 + P6: Would recomment simul-climbing or soloing these pitches. Super fun alpine-style scrambling with phenomenal scenery! (easy 5th)

Fang report: At the time of my writing, the deathly Fang rotates at the slightest touch. That being said, I agree with other sensible folks that there is very little risk of it coming dislodged in the immediate future. Either way, avoiding it is really not an issue. Nov 14, 2016
Weston L
A couple of things regarding weekend bandit's 80 meter rope rap beta...

1. The rap from top of 4 to top of 3 is casual.

2. The rap from top of 3 to top of 2 is a legitimate rope stretcher. Make sure you have a true, full 80 meter rope...and be prepared for a very, very slim margin for error in a highly exposed position. TIE KNOTS IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE. Stretch gets you there and not much more. Be ready to grab the ends when the second person is done rapping, I would imagine if the second person lets go and nobody has 'em...some very high stakes shenanigans would ensue. Probably not a fun thing.

3. Rapping from the top of pitch 2 down to the top of Pitch 1 of Sand Felipe is a good option, and certainly possible for those with less than an 80 meter rope (ie: if wanting to climb the crux pitch and nothing else.) The rap anchor mentioned by weekend bandit on the ledge atop P1 (the 5.7 pitch) comes and goes...the anchor atop P1 of Sand Felipe does not. Keep in mind courtesy relative to folks climbing that route, of course.

4. If rapping from Sand Felipe's first pitch anchor (not the one about 15 ft down and 15 ft to the climbers' left of the P2 anchor for Triassic, the one below that), this is your final rap. Rap 90' to the deck.

Hope this helps folks. Mar 16, 2017
Las Vegas, NV
Flyingmonkeys   Las Vegas, NV
Definitely was a bold rope stretcher with 80m when rapping with Weston L from 3 to 2. Used autoblock (key for locking off with nearly no rope left to set up for next rap) and it ended up sitting on tied ends of rope with a reach to bolts. Can be done but, tie rope ends or die lol seriously though. Had to untie rope ends to rap off once was secured to anchor which was maybe four inches worth. Amazing route! Mar 17, 2017
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
Decided to give this line a go at end of the day, looked so nice. Only had a double set of cams, but figured Id be ok in the gold size. Being conservative, I placed other cams when possible and only ended up using one gold. Never felt runout, just have to use other gear when you can.

Also, someone overcammed and lost 3 brand new BD ultralight .4 cams in the crux??? I tried to clean them out on the way down, gave up and just pushed them further in so they are not clogging the route. Someone with a longer piece of stiff wire (maybe 2?) might go try to score some nice gear-- its a bit unsightly and would be nice to remove them. May 15, 2017
Josh Janes    
For future reference, if you come across stuck pro on a climb, and you can't recover it, do not push it deeper in the crack or otherwise fix it even worse.

This makes it harder for others to remove (either by keeping the gear intact or destructively in order to simply clean up the climb). Jun 4, 2017
Nate K
Bozeman, MT
Nate K   Bozeman, MT
This climb is really, really good. We took it all the way to the summit which was fun but i definitely wouldn't do it again. I think no matter your route finding the upper pitches are not fourth class, more like crumbly low fifth. The descent off whiskey peak is sunny and hot. Overall though still 5 stars. Pitch one is meh, pitch two is amazing, pitch 3 is cruiser, pitch 4 is funky and memorable, pitch 5 and 6 have nice exposure in a beautiful place and are easily simuled. Bring doubles to three and place nuts outside the pitch 2 splitter if you need more pro. Sep 22, 2017
Eugene Kwan 1
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Eugene Kwan 1   Cambridge, Massachusetts
Great route! For those who like to sew it up: doubles to 0.75, 1 x #1 camalot, 4 x #2 camalot, 4 x #3 camalot, 1 x #4 camalot, and 1 x #5 camalot. The #5 is only useful on P1. The crux is scrunchy and involves more balance than anything else. It will take a 0.5 camalot (tight) or orange metolius. Only did the first three pitches due to heavy traffic. We did Sand Felipe while waiting. (Apparently the second pitch is unsafe; please see comments for Sand Felipe.) Rapping requires two ropes. I would say both P3 to P2 and P2 to the ground are about 40 m raps. Pull your ropes to the left on the ground to prevent them from getting stuck in the crack. Nov 26, 2017
Ben Fisch
Ben Fisch  
Note about the climb to the summit above pitch 4: My partner and I found the drag to be impossible. However, we are not the most experienced in managing drag on this type of climbing and perhaps we didn't take the best line. We had to break this into at least 4 pieces. Does anyone have advice for climbing the easy 5th class section to the summit in one or two pitches with a single rope (without simul-climbing)? Nov 27, 2017
zach cook
Boise, ID
zach cook   Boise, ID
This is a great route that could be a great link up with something else in the area. We only did the first 4 pitches and rapped. First 4 were stellar!
Gear: x2 .4-1 3 #2 and 1 #4
P4 my buddy barely rubbed up against the death block under the roof and it moved a good bit, with scary grinding careful of this thing. Sounds like its ready to go. Feb 21, 2018
Sam Fearer
Torrance, CA
Sam Fearer   Torrance, CA
I've seen these posts before and now it's my turn:

If anyone found a #2 BD Camalot (pre-C4, no thumb loop) with two orange dots on the metal between the lobes, I would love to hear from you. It disappeared on Sunday 4/15.
...No idea how it didn't end up in either rack or pack, but missing the old friend dearly. Thanks a million!

That said, the route isn't too bad with a single #2, as long as you bring 2-3 #3's and don't mind running out secure jamming. Fun route. Apr 16, 2018
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
For those who may not be up to linking the first two pitches, I'd highly recommend building an anchor at the base of the crux overhang, clipping direct, and then pulling and dropping your rope so your belayer can stand on the ground and keep the rope straight.

The amount of fixed gear on the crux of this route is kind of ridiculous and it's obvious it's coming from people belaying on the ledge right of the crux. May 20, 2018
Las Vegas, NV
Ashort   Las Vegas, NV
Looks like the bolted anchor at the pitch 1 ledge has been removed. Either that or my memory is bad and there never was a bolted belay there? Sep 25, 2018
Flagstaff, AZ
adam.b   Flagstaff, AZ
Awesome route! I highly recommend bringing two ropes and rapping after climbing pitch 4, the "4th class" to the top was wandery and took forever. It would have been much faster to rappel.
As for gear, my prefect rack was:
x1 blue metolious
Singles .3-.75 BD
x2 #1BD
x3 #2 and #3 BD
6 runners Sep 27, 2018

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