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Routes in Whiskey Peak

Amber T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archaeopteryx T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bourbon Hangover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Canadian Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cole Essence T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Desert Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Grader T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Frogland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geriatrics (aka Ben Dover Beelzebub) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ixtlan T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kenny Laguna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Matzoland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mazatlan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Conception T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Misunderstanding, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Only the Good Die Young T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Our Father T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Perplexity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rain Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Return To Forever T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sand Felipe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sandblast T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tales from the Gripped T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triassic Sands T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wholesome Fullback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 320 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Unknown.
Page Views: 237 total · 25/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Sustained, excellent technical climbing.

P1 (110', 5.12a): Climb a right-leaning seam with small pro. Clip the first of many bolts as you work up a steep slab to a traverse right and a belay on the arete. Really good climbing.

P2 (100', 5.12a): Difficult to grade this pitch: The crux felt like a V4 boulder problem that is not too bad once you figure it out; the remainder of the pitch is 11- tops. Immediately off the belay execute the intricate crux sequence and then follow sometimes friable/hollow rock straight up the face over two small roofs to an anchor in a scoop. A heady lead. Note: Belaying at the stance below the anchor can interfere with the climber during the crux. I advise either extending the belay well below the anchor until the crux is complete, or skipping the belay altogether by linking the first two pitches.

P3 (110', 5.11d): Follow bolts up the wall to a cruxy concavity. Above move left to a rest and then back right under a roof. Pass the roof on the right (#4 Camalot placement) and continue up more easily to an anchor which is oddly positioned far to the left. A great pitch.

Rap the route with a single 70.

Location

Begin at the right edge of the wall at the entrance to the gully leading up to Only the Good Die Young.

Protection

1x 00 C3 to 0.75 Camalot, wires, RP's, and a #4 Camalot. 12 or more draws.

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