Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Todd & Donette Swain
Page Views: 1,384 total · 10/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on May 9, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Perplexity takes the black face past three bolts to a long, leaning obtuse corner just left of The Misunderstanding.

Climb up to the first bolt (welded coldshut) and perform a few cruxy moves up past the second bolt to a ledge and rest stance. Clip a third bolt (Swain homemade hanger), and traverse left and up easy rock to the base of the corner. Ascend this corner via thin locks and good face holds on the left wall. Bring your 00 TCUs and don't expect any fixed pins. Two single-rope raps down The Misunderstanding.

Protection

SR plus 2x 00 TCUs or equivalent gear. Brass can help too.

Photos

All pro bolts replaced with bomber ASCA stainless. Enjoy this unusual route! It got the name for a reason...

As far as gear goes, Jerry's guide reccommendations are a little strange. bring at least 2 00 TCUs, 3 will get used, and the largest piece you'll need other than that is a .75 (single). No Z1/Z2 required, and the lack of pins is not a bad thing, where they were placed, they weren't going to hold much. Good tips cam placements abound. The rock on the upper fingers section is brittle, beware taking wingers on the featured rock after the beautiful tips section. Traverse right under the roof to finish on anchors of Misunderstanding, which are now good. Sep 22, 2012
Michael Dom  
 
In addition to cunning linguist's gear beta I would suggest a red ball but. Doubles of purple and blue metolius will also be well used. I only used one double 00 tcu. This climb is pretty funky but ends on cool climbing.

It felt harder than 10d. Jan 5, 2017