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Routes in Whiskey Peak

Amber T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archaeopteryx T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bourbon Hangover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Canadian Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cole Essence T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Desert Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Grader T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Frogland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geriatrics (AKA Ben Dover Beelzebub) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ixtlan T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kenny Laguna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Matzoland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mazatlan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Conception T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Misunderstanding, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Only the Good Die Young T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Our Father T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Perplexity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rain Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Return To Forever T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sand Felipe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sandblast T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tales from the Gripped T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triassic Sands T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wholesome Fullback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Todd & Donette Swain
Page Views: 1,287 total, 10/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on May 9, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Perplexity takes the black face past three bolts to a long, leaning obtuse corner just left of The Misunderstanding.

Climb up to the first bolt (welded coldshut) and perform a few cruxy moves up past the second bolt to a ledge and rest stance. Clip a third bolt (Swain homemade hanger), and traverse left and up easy rock to the base of the corner. Ascend this corner via thin locks and good face holds on the left wall. Bring your 00 TCUs and don't expect any fixed pins. Two single-rope raps down The Misunderstanding.

Protection

SR plus 2x 00 TCUs or equivalent gear. Brass can help too.

Photos

Michael Dom  
 
In addition to cunning linguist's gear beta I would suggest a red ball but. Doubles of purple and blue metolius will also be well used. I only used one double 00 tcu. This climb is pretty funky but ends on cool climbing.

It felt harder than 10d. Jan 5, 2017
All pro bolts replaced with bomber ASCA stainless. Enjoy this unusual route! It got the name for a reason...

As far as gear goes, Jerry's guide reccommendations are a little strange. bring at least 2 00 TCUs, 3 will get used, and the largest piece you'll need other than that is a .75 (single). No Z1/Z2 required, and the lack of pins is not a bad thing, where they were placed, they weren't going to hold much. Good tips cam placements abound. The rock on the upper fingers section is brittle, beware taking wingers on the featured rock after the beautiful tips section. Traverse right under the roof to finish on anchors of Misunderstanding, which are now good. Sep 22, 2012