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Tales from the Gripped
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.7 from 20
votes
Routes in North Face
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Amber T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Archaeopteryx T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Bourbon Hangover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Canadian Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Closed on Monday T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cole Essence T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Desert Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Frogland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Geriatrics (aka Ben Dover Beelzebub) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ixtlan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Kenny Laguna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Matzoland S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Mazatlan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Miss Conception T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Misunderstanding, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Only the Good Die Young T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Open-and-Shut T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Our Father T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Perplexity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Quarantine Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rain Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Return To Forever T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sand Felipe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sandblast T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Tales from the Gripped T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Triassic Sands T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wholesome Fullback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 36.03509, -115.46345 |
| FA: | Todd Swain and Elaine Mathews |
| Page Views: | 2,732 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Luke Stefurak on May 2, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
The third pitch is what makes this route worth doing. A phenomenal exercise in red rocks face climbing. The first pitch is a hard slab with a short crux, and the second pitch is a touch loose.
P1 - 5.11a/b - 90 ft Start up a slanting seam, finger sized gear protects, below two bolts on a varnished slab. Make a hard move to the left to clipping a stance below the second bolt. Trust your feet and work through some very poor holds. Once the good horizontal are reached traverse right to a bolt a pull over on jugs. A few 1"-3" pieces protect some face climbing up and right to a nice ledge.
P2 - 5.10a - 100 ft Climb up a slab to the left with some thin moves past two closely space bolts. Move right and climb a right facing corner before you can spy some older bolts on the face. Traverse right to an obvious anchor that currently has a bunch of old webbing. Belay at an semi-hanging stance.
P3 - 5.11b - 100 ft From the belay blast up to a high first bolt and then slowly weave your way up the face. An early thin crux will make you think about the rusty hangers that I often backed up with nut placements. Work you way left to a small ledge and then go straight up the face on amazing patina. The holds start to disappear and force you right for a final houdini crux.
A few thin to finger sized pieces protect a final seam to the anchor which has a good stance. ~ 9 bolts on this pitch and a handful of medium to small nuts + thin cams.
Rappelling is possible with a 70m Rope.
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