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Routes in Whiskey Peak

Amber T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archaeopteryx T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bourbon Hangover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Canadian Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cole Essence T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Desert Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Grader T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Frogland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geriatrics (aka Ben Dover Beelzebub) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ixtlan T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kenny Laguna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Matzoland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mazatlan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Conception T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Misunderstanding, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Only the Good Die Young T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Our Father T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Perplexity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rain Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Return To Forever T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sand Felipe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sandblast T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tales from the Gripped T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triassic Sands T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wholesome Fullback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Todd Swain and Elaine Mathews
Page Views: 1,223 total · 23/month
Shared By: Luke Stefurak on May 2, 2014 with updates from Rprops
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

The third pitch is what makes this route worth doing. A phenomenal exercise in red rocks face climbing. The first pitch is a hard slab with a short crux, and the second pitch is a touch loose.

P1 - 5.11a/b - 90 ft Start up a slanting seam, finger sized gear protects, below two bolts on a varnished slab. Make a hard move to the left to clipping a stance below the second bolt. Trust your feet and work through some very poor holds. Once the good horizontal are reached traverse right to a bolt a pull over on jugs. A few 1"-3" pieces protect some face climbing up and right to a nice ledge.

P2 - 5.10a - 100 ft Climb up a slab to the left with some thin moves past two closely space bolts. Move right and climb a right facing corner before you can spy some older bolts on the face. Traverse right to an obvious anchor that currently has a bunch of old webbing. Belay at an semi-hanging stance.

P3 - 5.11b - 100 ft From the belay blast up to a high first bolt and then slowly weave your way up the face. An early thin crux will make you think about the rusty hangers that I often backed up with nut placements. Work you way left to a small ledge and then go straight up the face on amazing patina. The holds start to disappear and force you right for a final houdini crux.

A few thin to finger sized pieces protect a final seam to the anchor which has a good stance. ~ 9 bolts on this pitch and a handful of medium to small nuts + thin cams.

Rappelling is possible with a 70m Rope.

Location

This route climbs the varnished slab just to the the right of the first pitch of Our Father.

Route can be rappeled with a 70m rope.

Protection

A single rack of cams from purple C3 to #2 camalot and a good selection of nuts including a few RPs

Photos

Michael Kimm
Denver, CO
  5.11b
Michael Kimm   Denver, CO
  5.11b
A step up from Delicate Sound of Thunder. Pitch 1 is an intense slab crux if you're short, and pitch three is delicate and committing above the questionable hardware. May 6, 2014
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.11
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.11
FA: Todd Swain and Elaine Mathews

An interesting route with hard and somewhat bizarre cruxes on pitch one and three (I concur with Luke's Houdini classification). Perhaps height dependent as well? I found the third pitch in particular very reachy and closer to solid 5.11. Oct 21, 2015
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
I'm wondering if a hold broke on P1 because the crux felt WAY harder than any other 11b/c/d or even 12a I've done at Red Rocks. For example, it felt a 2-3 letter grades harder than neighboring climb of similar style Delicate Sound of Thunder (11b). And I'm tall, which probably helps! The crux sequence is not only hard but cryptic - hard to imagine a 5.11 climber onsighting this thing. I would have rated the pitch 12a/b. May 7, 2017
This climb has new bolts on pitches 2 and 3 now, instead of angle iron. Jul 5, 2017
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.11
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.11
In response to Kevin's comment, I don't think pitch 1 is approaching 12-. However, it is hard to figure out onsight and plenty hard. I do think it is somewhat height dependant and could be easier if tall. I'm 5'6" FWIW. Aug 1, 2017

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