Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Todd Swain and Elaine Mathews
Page Views: 1,322 total · 22/month
Shared By: Luke Stefurak on May 2, 2014 with updates from Rprops
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


The third pitch is what makes this route worth doing. A phenomenal exercise in red rocks face climbing. The first pitch is a hard slab with a short crux, and the second pitch is a touch loose.

P1 - 5.11a/b - 90 ft Start up a slanting seam, finger sized gear protects, below two bolts on a varnished slab. Make a hard move to the left to clipping a stance below the second bolt. Trust your feet and work through some very poor holds. Once the good horizontal are reached traverse right to a bolt a pull over on jugs. A few 1"-3" pieces protect some face climbing up and right to a nice ledge.

P2 - 5.10a - 100 ft Climb up a slab to the left with some thin moves past two closely space bolts. Move right and climb a right facing corner before you can spy some older bolts on the face. Traverse right to an obvious anchor that currently has a bunch of old webbing. Belay at an semi-hanging stance.

P3 - 5.11b - 100 ft From the belay blast up to a high first bolt and then slowly weave your way up the face. An early thin crux will make you think about the rusty hangers that I often backed up with nut placements. Work you way left to a small ledge and then go straight up the face on amazing patina. The holds start to disappear and force you right for a final houdini crux.

A few thin to finger sized pieces protect a final seam to the anchor which has a good stance. ~ 9 bolts on this pitch and a handful of medium to small nuts + thin cams.

Rappelling is possible with a 70m Rope.


This route climbs the varnished slab just to the the right of the first pitch of Our Father.

Route can be rappeled with a 70m rope.


A single rack of cams from purple C3 to #2 camalot and a good selection of nuts including a few RPs


Michael Kimm
Denver, CO
Michael Kimm   Denver, CO
A step up from Delicate Sound of Thunder. Pitch 1 is an intense slab crux if you're short, and pitch three is delicate and committing above the questionable hardware. May 6, 2014
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
FA: Todd Swain and Elaine Mathews

An interesting route with hard and somewhat bizarre cruxes on pitch one and three (I concur with Luke's Houdini classification). Perhaps height dependent as well? I found the third pitch in particular very reachy and closer to solid 5.11. Oct 21, 2015
Kevin Dahlstrom
Boulder, CO
Kevin Dahlstrom   Boulder, CO
I'm wondering if a hold broke on P1 because the crux felt WAY harder than any other 11b/c/d or even 12a I've done at Red Rocks. For example, it felt a 2-3 letter grades harder than neighboring climb of similar style Delicate Sound of Thunder (11b). And I'm tall, which probably helps! The crux sequence is not only hard but cryptic - hard to imagine a 5.11 climber onsighting this thing. I would have rated the pitch 12a/b. May 7, 2017
This climb has new bolts on pitches 2 and 3 now, instead of angle iron. Jul 5, 2017
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
In response to Kevin's comment, I don't think pitch 1 is approaching 12-. However, it is hard to figure out onsight and plenty hard. I do think it is somewhat height dependant and could be easier if tall. I'm 5'6" FWIW. Aug 1, 2017