Type: Trad, 320 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Van Betten/Nordblom 1987
Page Views: 502 total · 11/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Apr 14, 2015
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Good climbing, loose rock and runouts on the first pitch. Between the start of Sand Felipe and Triassic is a classic looking made layback. Up this (large cam helpful) to some loose rock and a choice between two cracks. Start on the left crack, heading right at a pro bolt. Sustained climbing with good pro leads straight up past a second bolt to the shared anchor above the crux pitch of Triassic. The second pitch takes the left variation crack after sharing a start and bolt with Triassic, rejoins that route at a large ledge and rappel with 2 ropes or continue up Triassic.

Location

The left facing lie back corner 15 feet left of Triassic's starting corner. Looks steep, thin, and fun, which it is.

Protection

The original pro bolts on this pitch date to the aid FA of Triassic, these pitches were the direct line that was nailed before the pitch to the right was established free. Joe Herbst and Larry Hamilton nailed this up in '72 and lefty couple of quarter inchers with Dolt hangers. Route takes good pro wired and active from the middle up, hollow and funky pro can be found at the start for quite a ways, hence the R rating. Standard rack, doubles in small. Long pitch so plenty of runners. Offset wires probably helpful.

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Cunning Linguist
  5.10-
Cunning Linguist  
  5.10-
Both pro bolts replaced 4/15 with stainless ASCA half inchers. The original bolts had sustained falls and were in bad shape. Apr 14, 2015