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Routes in Whiskey Peak

Amber T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archaeopteryx T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bourbon Hangover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Canadian Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cole Essence T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Desert Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Grader T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Frogland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geriatrics (AKA Ben Dover Beelzebub) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ixtlan T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kenny Laguna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Matzoland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mazatlan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Conception T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Misunderstanding, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Only the Good Die Young T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Our Father T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Perplexity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rain Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Return To Forever T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sand Felipe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sandblast T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tales from the Gripped T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triassic Sands T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wholesome Fullback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 320 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Van Betten/Nordblom 1987
Page Views: 382 total, 12/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Apr 14, 2015
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Good climbing, loose rock and runouts on the first pitch. Between the start of Sand Felipe and Triassic is a classic looking made layback. Up this (large cam helpful) to some loose rock and a choice between two cracks. Start on the left crack, heading right at a pro bolt. Sustained climbing with good pro leads straight up past a second bolt to the shared anchor above the crux pitch of Triassic. The second pitch takes the left variation crack after sharing a start and bolt with Triassic, rejoins that route at a large ledge and rappel with 2 ropes or continue up Triassic.

Location

The left facing lie back corner 15 feet left of Triassic's starting corner. Looks steep, thin, and fun, which it is.

Protection

The original pro bolts on this pitch date to the aid FA of Triassic, these pitches were the direct line that was nailed before the pitch to the right was established free. Joe Herbst and Larry Hamilton nailed this up in '72 and lefty couple of quarter inchers with Dolt hangers. Route takes good pro wired and active from the middle up, hollow and funky pro can be found at the start for quite a ways, hence the R rating. Standard rack, doubles in small. Long pitch so plenty of runners. Offset wires probably helpful.

Photos

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Both pro bolts replaced 4/15 with stainless ASCA half inchers. The original bolts had sustained falls and were in bad shape. Apr 14, 2015