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Routes in Whiskey Peak

Amber T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archaeopteryx T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bourbon Hangover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Canadian Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cole Essence T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Desert Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Grader T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Frogland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geriatrics (AKA Ben Dover Beelzebub) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ixtlan T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kenny Laguna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Matzoland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mazatlan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Conception T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Misunderstanding, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Only the Good Die Young T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Our Father T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Perplexity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rain Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Return To Forever T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sand Felipe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sandblast T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tales from the Gripped T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triassic Sands T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wholesome Fullback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave anderson, Randal Grandstaff 1975
Page Views: 6,501 total, 43/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on May 7, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

The Misunderstanding starts about 50' left of Mazatlan. Look for a crack in a corner running through dark varnished rock.Pitch 1- climb easy ground, up slightly sandy white rock. Aim for the obvious cracks on the right side of the corner. Traverse left under the roof and pull over the top, onto the belay ledge, belay from 2 good bolts(70'- 5.9).Pitch 2- The meat of the route!! Climb the obvious varnished crack that you've been admiring!! At the top of the crack is another white roof, climb right under the roof to reach another short wide section. Once you reach the corner of the roof you'll see the next anchor, which is semi-hanging.To descend rappel the route with 1 rope(50M).

Protection

SR- doubles in the 3 TO 4.5" size's
Fernando Cal
Long Beach, CA
  5.9
Fernando Cal   Long Beach, CA
  5.9
Great climb! Good hand jams, laybacks, stems, all options are there. I did a combination of all three for great fun! Used four BD#3 and 1 BD#4. Another #4 wouldve been nice, but it was sitting nice and warm at the bottom inside my pack. Bolted anchors with rap rings. Good route for the grade Apr 17, 2017
bmdhacks  
 
As a budding 5.10 leader, I found the first pitch protected fine with doubles of C4s. I'd climb it with a single rack if I had to. Very thoughtful interesting climbing.

I easily could have placed three #4's and four #3's on the second pitch, and my double set felt really inadequate. Pretty much walked my pieces the entire climb, which was a bit of a hassle.

Rapping on a single 70 brings you below your first placement on the first pitch, and there's a ledge to come off rappel before an easy downclimb. Mar 22, 2017
Michael Dom  
 
Doing it as one pitch is a blast. I took up two 4s and two 3s and thought that it still protected well. Jan 5, 2017
How folks rate the a 2 star climb I simply don't understand. This thing is old school and classic! Mar 16, 2013
The bolted anchors on this route were retro-anchors, courtesy Todd Swain. They were installed when Todd was putting in his nearby routes Perplexity and Miss Conception, original anchor atop P2 was fixed natural pro.

While attempting to switch out a homemade angle iron "cracked hanger" Swain hanger (so-called because they were made at home by Swain, and had cracks at the time of installation at the clip point-Swain still installed them) at the first belay, my party got the pleasure of snapping one of the 3/8 belay bolts at the threads. This is becoming a common occurance-the same experience was had two weeks ago on Triassic's P2 anchor, seems like Swain may have bought a bad batch of bolts at one point, or mixing metals has caused more galvanic corrosion than expected with the angle iron and cold shut hangers that were installed with these bolts. We did not bring the whole replacement kit, therefore the first anchor is one bolt currently, judging from the one beside I wouldn't trust it by itself.

Both anchors will be replaced with solid stainless very shortly. In the meantime, bring a 70M or swing right to the Miss Conception P1 anchor if you'd like to avoid a short low-fifth downclimb. This was replaced last year and is solid stainless. The mess it was before replacement made the Misunderstanding anchors look good...

UPDATE: Both anchor stations are replaced with bomber ASCA stainless. You can donate now if you're feeling thankful- Sep 3, 2012
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
  5.9
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
  5.9
We were able to get down from the upper anchor with one single 70M rope rappel. It required some easy 4th class down climbing.

The 2nd pitch corner will take Black Diamond #3s or #4s well. Jan 11, 2012
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
If you're offwidthing this fist crack, you're doing it wrong. Ha!

Anyway, three #3 camalots work well for this, two number 4s are sufficient, and a 70m line works really well. A great, not to be missed climb if you're in the area. Sep 20, 2009
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
kinda takes the fun out of it, doesn't it now? Apr 3, 2009
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
This climb is good and by liebacking you can avoid any of the usual offwidth trashing techniques. Nov 16, 2008
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
really good and very exciting with a single rack! May 15, 2007
meo
meo  
These two pitches can be done in one and you can just reach the (easy to downclimb) start with a 70 meter rope from the top. You can easily place four to five #3 Camalots two 3.5s and two #4s or you'll need to keep bringing the pro with you. Nov 7, 2006