Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Sam Boyce and Lani Chapko Winter 2019
Page Views: 1,361 total · 89/month
Shared By: Lani eL Chap on Apr 30, 2020
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Pitch 1) Climb up splitter fist crack in right facing corner (#3-#4) past a wider pod (#5) and mantle to large sloping ledge. traverse right and belay at base of OW (.3-.75 cams)
Pitch 2) 5.10++ (or 5.9) head up the obvious OW. Those uncomfortable with #6 cracks may opt to bring one for a 12’ section of splitter 6’s. A low angle layback leads to a ledge. Step right and face climb up poorly protected moves to the obvious hand crack roof. The very strenuous roof puts you on a big ledge system. Alternatively exit left through the notch, avoiding the roof and keeping the grade at 5.9.
Descent: Head down and skiers right. The top of “Only the Good Die Young” is at the edge of the wall. Continue down this descent by switchbacking left across a steep slab. A short down scramble leads to a rap tree. A single 80’ rappel puts you back on the approach.

Location

Approach as for “Only the Good Die Young”, continue past it and up the gully until a blocky tower is visible on the wall. This route climbs the right side of that tower.

Protection

Singles .3-5 cams double #1 and #2, optional #6

Photos