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Routes in Whiskey Peak

Amber T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archaeopteryx T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bourbon Hangover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Canadian Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cole Essence T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Desert Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Grader T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Frogland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geriatrics (aka Ben Dover Beelzebub) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ixtlan T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kenny Laguna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Matzoland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mazatlan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Conception T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Misunderstanding, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Only the Good Die Young T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Our Father T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Perplexity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rain Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Return To Forever T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sand Felipe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sandblast T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tales from the Gripped T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triassic Sands T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wholesome Fullback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 750 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Uriostes, year unknown
Page Views: 10,112 total · 58/month
Shared By: Jake Martin on Mar 19, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Kudos, again, the the ASCA folks who rebolted this climb, taking from an obscure, old-rusty-bolts-that-will-snap scarefest to a super-safe, super-classic climb. Don't let the 5.11 grade scare you off, the cruxs are very well bolted with big, fat, new, shiny ASCA hangers. This climb is so well bolted, the cruxes could easily be yarded through (A0 style).

Anyhow, get to the route by first finding Wholesome Fullback. After you find this climb, hike climber's right for roughly 300 feet. As you go ascend slightly, you will be heading up into the mouth of a narrow canyon that splits Whiskey Peak and Black Velvet Wall. Keep your eyes peeled up for a bolt 10-15 feet off the deck; this will be the give away for the route's start, and will be on the same wall as Wholesome Fullback, that has now become the left side of the narrow canyon you are heading up. Again, the route will be between 300 and 500 feet climber's right of Wholesome Fullback. As you look up at the super-shiny new hanger, you will see several (3-4) other bolts about 40 feet up, twisting around a corner. Here you are looking at the second pitch, to give you a good idea of how short the pitches really are. So now you have found the climb.

The first pitch goes in Supertopo as 10d, but I felt it was more 10bish, a one-move wonder. Place some cams, and go up to the first set of anchors.

Pitch 2 is the business at 5.11 plus, with bolts right there the whole time. This is a super-steep, super-fun portion of this climb; a few of the holds are climbing gym-esque. As you reach the second anchor, you will already be getting psyched for the great-looking third pitch.

Begin this pitch with easy slab moves, progressing into several 5.10 moves to the belay. As the pitch continues, so does the difficulty. Thank goodness for those incuts...Here we go, this is the crux.

Pitch 4, you can see the three shiny traverse bolts, where the climbing is the most difficult right at the beginning of the traverse, and eases as you get the overhang, which are really jugs. Use long runners on the first and last traverse bolts, or suffer the consequences of severe rope drag. Also notice the original Urioste bolt...don't both clipping it, I talked to the dude who rebolted this and he said they barely hold body weight. After the overhang, do some .10 slab moves, and then, belay if you want, or just launch into the 5.6 (at most) patina haul to the top.

The descent isn't pretty. You need to scramble back down the canyon that the climb started in (via some 4th-classing climber's right from the summit), the one dividing Black Velvet and Whiskey Peak, but be wary as the canyon forks, as we found out. You will need to do one short rap of like 70 feet once you get close to your packs. Thanks again to the ASCA, they are really doing climbers a service.

Protection

Bolts protect the cruxes, and the anchors are new as well, but don't roll up with just a rack of draws and a rope -- no, no, no, you will also need a single set of cams to #2 Camalot (I am not sure what SuperTopo says to bring, but that is what we had, and were fine). Only one rope is necessary, and a 50-meter rope would work fine -- the pitches are all super short. The only reason a longer rope might be desirable would be if you wanted to run the last few pitches together, not a problem as after the route's crux, the difficulty eases way back to 5.6 patina pulling. Backing off this route would be easy.
meo
meo  
This was a great route. First pitch a bit akward to start. All the cruxes we're protected very well. Oct 21, 2007
Aaron S
  5.11c
Aaron S  
  5.11c
The description here is spot on. Despite reading it here I neglected to put a long runner on the last bolt of the pitch 4 traverse and paid the price. A shoulder length sling would have made a world of difference. I highly recommend running the last two pitches together as there is really no reason to stop on the mediocre ledge.

The descent sucks balls. Despite paying pretty close attention we missed the fork coming down the canyon and had to back track up to get over to the base. Lots of bushwhacking and crappy scrambling.

There was one spot where I was happy to have a #3 camalot. If you are solid on 5.11 (I’m not) then you will be fine without it. Every pitch has stellar climbing and it’s a good one to push yourself on as it’s very well protected. May 22, 2008
Chad Kuhlman
Fort Collins
Chad Kuhlman   Fort Collins
Good Route! The crux is a one move wonder off a small crimp. You really want to climb this on a cooler day for that move.
I found the descent to be easy with little to no bushwhacking. Cut down and to the right on slabs early on the descent. Then you will have one small rap off a tree to get in the gully with a little down climbing to the base of the route. Jul 30, 2008
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b/c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b/c
absolutely amazing line- really good route. for folks unfamiliar with the geography of the gully or new to red rocks: when you get ready to make the rappel, look down. you'll see a white fin of rock separating the gully- you want to be on the right (east) side of it when going down. the other trick here is that once you get down, about 30' along the trail, step right toward the main wall rather than down and left.

not too bad other than that. thanks to the ASCA for the FAT bolts on the route- man, i cant imagine making that traverse on ye olde 1/4" urioste bolts! yowsers! Aug 24, 2008
rex parker
las vegas n.v
rex parker   las vegas n.v
really fun worth going out to climb the exposure on the second or third pitch were it angled down to the left is sweet Sep 4, 2009
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
I noticed all the pitches are short (less then 100') Does the route traverse too much to rap back down it??
Thoughts? Sep 18, 2009
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b/c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b/c
you could rap from the top of 3 if you wanted to- but you cant rap from above that- i seem to recall that there isnt a bolted belay at the top of 4 or 5.

the walkoff isnt that bad, maybe 10-15 minutes. Sep 19, 2009
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Thanks for the info Sep 19, 2009
This route is varied and interesting-much more variety of movement than most of the Velvet Wall crimp-ladders. Short, fun cruxes, good rock-the last pitch finish is forgettable but the rest is a blast. Don't miss this one. Oct 16, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11c
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.11c
Wonderful line on perfect rock. Short pitches that are all fun and a few pretty stout moves that are super well protected (bolt ladders). The descent is actually very easy and fast if you don't go off route. Once on top traverse a very short distance on the obvious ledge then look down for a lower ledge that leads down towards the gully (do not walk all the way back on the first ledge). Carefully down climb to this second ledge, traverse and down climb to a ledge with trees - one has a rap set up. At the bottom of the rap drop down only a few feet and then traverse straight along the wall you just climbed (do not drop over the ridge). A quick descent down along this wall takes you right to your gear in about 5 minutes. Piece of cake. Mar 16, 2012
Really fun route with a good variety. Every pitch is different,but all are fun and extremely well protected. The second pitch crux is a little burly while the fourth pitch crux is a crimp move. Definitely happy that we got on this route on our last day in Red Rocks. A nice way to end a week of climbing. The descent is fast and easy, just be careful up on that white sloping ledge when moving to the rap as there is a bunch of loose rocks and a slip would not be good. May 2, 2012
Chris DuRoss
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a/b
Chris DuRoss   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a/b
Great route, even though the pitches are short. P2 felt like the business. The crux moves on P4 are not that bad - maybe 5.11a/b. Follow Tim's direction for the descent, which we managed to do without rapping. May 4, 2012
sqwirll
Las Vegas
 
sqwirll   Las Vegas
 
Pitch 2 crux seemed harder than pitch 4. The left bolt at the pitch 3 anchor is loose and should be tightened. Oct 1, 2012
As of 11/1/2012, the left-hand bolt at the belay atop P3 is loose. A couple microcams (red and yellow C3s) backed it up decently. You could also probably bring the first bolt of P4 into the anchor with a cordelette.

Otherwise, fun climbing. P2 definitely felt like the business as opposed to P4 per the Handren guidebook. I recommend skipping the 3rd bolt on P2 as it is unnecessary and difficult to clip. Nov 2, 2012
Jared Cohn  
 
The anchor bolts atop pitch 2 and 3 both have one loose bolt that can almost slide out of the wall. This is as of 11/28/14. Dec 1, 2014
Dave Meyer
Ojai
  5.11b/c
Dave Meyer   Ojai
  5.11b/c
Absolutely incredible movement throughout the first four pitches. I enjoyed this one more than most of the other classics I've done in Black Velvet. Feb 17, 2015
Weston L
NEVADASTAN
  5.11c
Weston L   NEVADASTAN
  5.11c
Great climb, wonderful variety and brilliant movement. Very easily doable on a summer morning, as the route faces West.

That being said, there are two anchor bolt issues:

Anchor atop P2, right hand bolt is significantly loose in the hole.

Anchor atop P3, left hand bolt is significantly loose in the hole and protruding a touch.




RE: the descent...not too terrible, some brush and loose rock. The supertopo topo for this was spot on. Slings on the rappel tree were good as of 7/3/15. Jul 8, 2015
Did this one last week. It's an excellent route.

A few comments to add:

P1 - Thuggy move at base - 10d
P2 - The crux fro sure. 11b tricky traverse right. Top bolt is hard to clip / unclip and should probably be skipped
P3 - Fun 10b
P4 - 11b - One move wonder to jug rail - nice position. gear belay at horizontal after bolts.
P5 - Up and off - 5.7 Apr 27, 2016
Rprops
North Las Vegas
  5.11a/b
Rprops   North Las Vegas
  5.11a/b
Pitch 3 anchor is tightened down, as is the first bolt on the pitch 4 traverse. I didn't look at the pitch 2 anchor, but if you're worried about it, bring a wrench. All of the other bolts seemed bomber. Sep 24, 2017
James Donigan
Brooklyn
 
James Donigan   Brooklyn
 
fun climb! being 6'3" i think made p2 the harder crux and p4 easier but whatever. descent was crappy in climbing shoes. best info i can give for the descent would be to traverse up canyon the ledge you finish on until a safe scramble down into the gully can be made. then stay as right and high as you can being mindful not to get cliffed out. some trails will be obvious, sometimes just follow the gully and path of least resistance. we never found the rap station but you will eventually end up looking at the p1 anchor/p2 and a 4th class down climb can be made beneath what looks like a huge chockstone right against the cliff. it is pretty short and leads directly back to your bags at the base. hope that helps those that miss the rap! Apr 5, 2018
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.11b
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.11b
Pretty good route. 2nd pitch felt more like 11b/c than the 4th pitch. Single rack to 2" plus 8-10 quick/alpine draws.

Descent is straightforward. The bottom of the descent is loose and any debris/rock that gets knocked loose will inevitably move towards the base of the route. If you're gearing up at the base of the route it may be wise to wear a helmet and exercise caution on your way down. Difficult to be out of the line of fire while at the base of this one. Apr 18, 2018

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