Type: Trad, 750 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Uriostes, year unknown
Page Views: 11,989 total · 60/month
Shared By: Jake Martin on Mar 19, 2004 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Kudos, again, the the ASCA folks who rebolted this climb, taking from an obscure, old-rusty-bolts-that-will-snap scarefest to a super-safe, super-classic climb. Don't let the 5.11 grade scare you off, the cruxs are very well bolted with big, fat, new, shiny ASCA hangers. This climb is so well bolted, the cruxes could easily be yarded through (A0 style).

Anyhow, get to the route by first finding Wholesome Fullback. After you find this climb, hike climber's right for roughly 300 feet. As you go ascend slightly, you'll be heading up into the mouth of a narrow canyon that splits Whiskey Peak and Black Velvet Wall. Keep your eyes peeled up for a bolt 10-15 feet off the deck; this will be the give away for the route's start, and will be on the same wall as Wholesome Fullback, that has now become the left side of the narrow canyon you are heading up. Again, the route will be between 300 and 500 feet climber's right of Wholesome Fullback. As you look up at the super-shiny new hanger, you'll see several (3-4) other bolts about 40 feet up, twisting around a corner. Here you are looking at the second pitch, to give you a good idea of how short the pitches really are. So now you have found the climb.

P1.  Step off the boulder and clip a bolt.  Make bouldery moves past the bolt to gain a stance. Place additional gear and move up the thin crack in a left facing corner.  The climbing eases but the wall steepens.  Place gear and move up and right to gain the bolted anchor The first pitch goes in Supertopo as 10d, but I felt it was more 10bish, a one-move wonder. Place some cams, and go up to the first set of anchors.

P2:  From the belay step right to gain a roof. Make unique, bouldery moves to gain a stance on the roof. Move right into the corner and up. Make a long reach left to clip the third bolt.  Continue up into a small alcove/roof. Climb through the alcove/roof following a continuously narrowing crack for another 40 or more feet to belay at a fixed anchor.

Pitch 2 is the business at 5.11 plus, with bolts right there the whole time. This is a super-steep, super-fun portion of this climb; a few of the holds are climbing gym-esque. As you reach the second anchor, you'll already be getting psyched for the great-looking third pitch.

P3: Make face and crack moves on a ramp and left facing corner passing several bolts, with potential for gear between them. As the ramp steepens to face and the crack closes out make delicate face moves past a couple more bolts to gain the fixed anchor.

Begin this pitch with easy slab moves, progressing into several 5.10 moves to the belay. As the pitch continues, so does the difficulty. Thank goodness for those incuts...Here we go, this is the crux.

P4: Climb up clipping two bolts to the challenging traverse.  Decipher (or not) the best sequence for your height and finger size across the face and upward to the horizontal crack.  Hand traverse right and around the corner to gain a stance on the next face. Very thin seams and edges lead up a nearly blank face past two bolts in solid rock to gain a potential belay stance (place wide gear) or continue up the face into a right facing corner over easy ground but less quality rock to a large ledge.  Belay here or continue another 10 feet to gain the final terrace. Place long runners on bolts 2 and 4 to avoid rope drag.

Pitch 4, you can see the three shiny traverse bolts, where the climbing is the most difficult right at the beginning of the traverse, and eases as you get the overhang, which are really jugs. Use long runners on the first and last traverse bolts, or suffer the consequences of severe rope drag. Also notice the original Urioste bolt...don't both clipping it, I talked to the dude who rebolted this and he said they barely hold body weight. After the overhang, do some .10 slab moves, and then, belay if you want, or just launch into the 5.6 (at most) patina haul to the top.

Descent: gain the large sloping terrace. Follow it along the base of the wall for about 100-200 feet. Down climb into the bush filled gully.  A climbers trail leads downward through dense brush for several hundred feet. Look right and step up and around a rock prominence and into another gully close to the wall of the climb.  Continue down the climber trail to a horizontal bench about 60 feet above the start of the route.  Either move left and rap of a tree or down climb easy 5th class to reach the base of the climb and your gear. 

The descent isn't pretty. You need to scramble back down the canyon that the climb started in (via some 4th-classing climber's right from the summit), the one dividing Black Velvet and Whiskey Peak, but be wary as the canyon forks, as we found out. You'll need to do one short rap of like 70 feet once you get close to your packs. Thanks again to the ASCA, they are really doing climbers a service.

Protection

Bolts protect the cruxes, and the anchors are new as well, but don't roll up with just a rack of draws and a rope -- no, no, no, you will also need a single set of cams to #2 Camalot (I am not sure what SuperTopo says to bring, but that is what we had, and were fine). Only one rope is necessary, and a 50-meter rope would work fine -- the pitches are all super short. The only reason a longer rope might be desirable would be if you wanted to run the last few pitches together, not a problem as after the route's crux, the difficulty eases way back to 5.6 patina pulling. Backing off this route would be easy.

Photos