Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 428 total · 9/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 2, 2014
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This route climbs the center of a beautiful sweep of varnished stone perched above a series of bushy ledges between Triassic Sands and Wholesome Fullback.

Scramble up a vegetated left-facing corner/gully and belay at the highest ledge beneath the wall. Alternatively, climb up a crack that is slightly cleaner about 20' further right and then bushwhack back left on the ledge.

Climb the leftmost edge of the face with great caution (fragile rock but there is some pro available) until a first bolt can be clipped from a good foot ledge. From here, climb gently right across the face and follow four more bolts - flirting with the righthand arete - and mantle to the top of the face.

Protection

5 bolts and a single run of cams from micro to 0.75 Camalot. A 60m rope will get you back down to the ledge but from there you'll have to down climb or rap off scrub oak back to the ground.

The anchor at the top of the route is terrible. Bring a length of cord/climbing rope to back it up. This route is much in need of a proper bolted anchor.

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Josh Janes

  5.11b
Josh Janes    
  5.11b
A sister route, Off the Lip, climbs past the first bolt and then follows the exposed lefthand arete at 5.10d past a few gear placements and two more bolts to the same crappy anchor. Beware a brief-case sized loose rock that forms the structure of the arete halfway up! One star. Nov 3, 2014
Sam Fearer
Torrance, CA
Sam Fearer   Torrance, CA
Gear and bolts are well-spaced, making for an enjoyable and thoughtful line. As of 11/2018, anchor cordelette is intact. Nov 19, 2018