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Routes in Whiskey Peak

Amber T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archaeopteryx T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bourbon Hangover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Canadian Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cole Essence T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Desert Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Grader T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Frogland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geriatrics (aka Ben Dover Beelzebub) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ixtlan T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kenny Laguna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Matzoland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mazatlan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Conception T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Misunderstanding, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Only the Good Die Young T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Our Father T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Perplexity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rain Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Return To Forever T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sand Felipe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sandblast T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tales from the Gripped T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triassic Sands T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wholesome Fullback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 353 total, 9/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 2, 2014
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route climbs the center of a beautiful sweep of varnished stone perched above a series of bushy ledges between Triassic Sands and Wholesome Fullback.

Scramble up a vegetated left-facing corner/gully and belay at the highest ledge beneath the wall. Alternatively, climb up a crack that is slightly cleaner about 20' further right and then bushwhack back left on the ledge.

Climb the leftmost edge of the face with great caution (fragile rock but there is some pro available) until a first bolt can be clipped from a good foot ledge. From here, climb gently right across the face and follow four more bolts - flirting with the righthand arete - and mantle to the top of the face.

Protection

5 bolts and a single run of cams from micro to 0.75 Camalot. A 60m rope will get you back down to the ledge but from there you'll have to down climb or rap off scrub oak back to the ground.

The anchor at the top of the route is terrible. Bring a length of cord/climbing rope to back it up. This route is much in need of a proper bolted anchor.

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Josh Janes    
 
A sister route, Off the Lip, climbs past the first bolt and then follows the exposed lefthand arete at 5.10d past a few gear placements and two more bolts to the same crappy anchor. Beware a brief-case sized loose rock that forms the structure of the arete halfway up! One star. Nov 3, 2014