Avg: 3.5 from 67 votes
Routes in Whiskey Peak
|Amber T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Archaeopteryx T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Bourbon Hangover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Canadian Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Cole Essence T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Desert Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|First Grader T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Frogland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Geriatrics (aka Ben Dover Beelzebub) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Ixtlan T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Kenny Laguna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Matzoland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Mazatlan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Miss Conception T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Misunderstanding, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Only the Good Die Young T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Our Father T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R|
|Perplexity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Rain Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Return To Forever T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Sand Felipe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Sandblast T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Tales from the Gripped T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Triassic Sands T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Wholesome Fullback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Dan Goodwin + the Uriostes|
|Page Views:||9,641 total, 68/month|
|Shared By:||Anthony Anagnostou on May 22, 2006|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionIxtlan (aka Ixtalan, Journey to Ixtlan) is a unique climb that every person who has ever walked into Black Velvet has ogled. It tops out on Whiskey Peak, but almost everybody (including me) stops at the top of the three short initial pitches, each memorable.
P1) climb thin steep face past several fat bolts to a stance, then traverse right to a station. short pitch. 70'? 5.11c. no trad gear necessary.
P2) up the flake system. really fun climbing for another short pitch. 90'? easy 5.10. pro is finicky and technical. i appreciated big nuts and small/med hexes.
P3) move past a short section of easy wide crack into a few yards of full-value offwidth (5.10) with bolts on the face. pull up to juggy rails at the overhang and it's all over. if you dont have huge cams, dont bother bringing gear on this pitch. there is nothing above the roof except 5.easy face to a comfy station.
LocationFind Triassic Sands, and walk climber's left a dozen yards to a face with lots of bolts arching up and right to a flake. Seriously, though.. You can't miss this route.
Rap each pitch. A 70m will get you from P2 to the ground on stretch.
ProtectionA single rack to #3 camalot is probably fine for most folks. One might consider tossing in some small to hand size hexes which can make up some of the best pro you'll get on parts of the second pitch. Finally, for the wide crack at the top, you could bring a 4, 5, and 6 and probably climb the thing with pro over your head the whole way. however, the bolts are quite reasonable up there so cams are not necessary.
the first two stations are not my all-time favorites. the first station's bolts are about four inches apart, which is annoying for the short period where both of you are hanging. the second station has one bolt in an almost-detached block, although you could put a #3.5 or #4 in to beef it up a little.