Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in North Face
|
Amber T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Archaeopteryx T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
|
|
Bourbon Hangover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Canadian Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Closed on Monday T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Cole Essence T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Desert Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Frogland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Geriatrics (aka Ben Dover Beelzebub) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Ixtlan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Kenny Laguna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Matzoland S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
|
|
Mazatlan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Miss Conception T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Misunderstanding, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Only the Good Die Young T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Open-and-Shut T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Our Father T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
|
|
Perplexity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Quarantine Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Rain Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Return To Forever T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Sand Felipe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Sandblast T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
|
|
Tales from the Gripped T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Triassic Sands T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Wholesome Fullback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 36.03509, -115.46345 |
| FA: | Jorge Urioste, Joanne Urioste, and Dan Goodwin, Jun 1981 |
| Page Views: | 17,025 total · 71/month |
| Shared By: | Anthony Anagnostou on May 22, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
Ixtlan (aka Ixtalan, Journey to Ixtlan) is a unique climb that every person who has ever walked into Black Velvet has ogled. It tops out on Whiskey Peak, but almost everybody (including me) stops at the top of the three short initial pitches, each memorable.
P1) climb thin steep face past several fat bolts to a stance, then traverse right to a station. short pitch. 70'? 5.11c. no trad gear necessary.
P2) up the flake system. really fun climbing for another short pitch. 90'? easy 5.10. pro is finicky and technical. i appreciated big nuts and small/med hexes.
P3) move past a short section of easy wide crack into a few yards of full-value offwidth (5.10) with bolts on the face. pull up to juggy rails at the overhang and it's all over. if you dont have huge cams, dont bother bringing gear on this pitch. there is nothing above the roof except 5.easy face to a comfy station.
Location
Find Triassic Sands, and walk climber's left a dozen yards to a face with lots of bolts arching up and right to a flake. Seriously, though.. You can't miss this route.
Rap each pitch. A 70m will get you from P2 to the ground on stretch.
Protection
A single rack to #3 camalot is probably fine for most folks. One might consider tossing in some small to hand size hexes which can make up some of the best pro you'll get on parts of the second pitch. Finally, for the wide crack at the top, you could bring a 4, 5, and 6 and probably climb the thing with pro over your head the whole way. however, the bolts are quite reasonable up there so cams are not necessary.
the first two stations are not my all-time favorites. the first station's bolts are about four inches apart, which is annoying for the short period where both of you are hanging. the second station has one bolt in an almost-detached block, although you could put a #3.5 or #4 in to beef it up a little.
Photos
20 Comments