Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches
FA: Dan Goodwin + the Uriostes
Page Views: 13,356 total · 76/month
Shared By: Anthony Anagnostou on May 22, 2006
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Ixtlan (aka Ixtalan, Journey to Ixtlan) is a unique climb that every person who has ever walked into Black Velvet has ogled. It tops out on Whiskey Peak, but almost everybody (including me) stops at the top of the three short initial pitches, each memorable.

P1) climb thin steep face past several fat bolts to a stance, then traverse right to a station. short pitch. 70'? 5.11c. no trad gear necessary.

P2) up the flake system. really fun climbing for another short pitch. 90'? easy 5.10. pro is finicky and technical. i appreciated big nuts and small/med hexes.

P3) move past a short section of easy wide crack into a few yards of full-value offwidth (5.10) with bolts on the face. pull up to juggy rails at the overhang and it's all over. if you dont have huge cams, dont bother bringing gear on this pitch. there is nothing above the roof except 5.easy face to a comfy station.

Location

Find Triassic Sands, and walk climber's left a dozen yards to a face with lots of bolts arching up and right to a flake. Seriously, though.. You can't miss this route.

Rap each pitch. A 70m will get you from P2 to the ground on stretch.

Protection

A single rack to #3 camalot is probably fine for most folks. One might consider tossing in some small to hand size hexes which can make up some of the best pro you'll get on parts of the second pitch. Finally, for the wide crack at the top, you could bring a 4, 5, and 6 and probably climb the thing with pro over your head the whole way. however, the bolts are quite reasonable up there so cams are not necessary.

the first two stations are not my all-time favorites. the first station's bolts are about four inches apart, which is annoying for the short period where both of you are hanging. the second station has one bolt in an almost-detached block, although you could put a #3.5 or #4 in to beef it up a little.

Photos