Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dan Goodwin + the Uriostes
Page Views: 10,834 total · 71/month
Shared By: Anthony Anagnostou on May 22, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Ixtlan (aka Ixtalan, Journey to Ixtlan) is a unique climb that every person who has ever walked into Black Velvet has ogled. It tops out on Whiskey Peak, but almost everybody (including me) stops at the top of the three short initial pitches, each memorable.

P1) climb thin steep face past several fat bolts to a stance, then traverse right to a station. short pitch. 70'? 5.11c. no trad gear necessary.

P2) up the flake system. really fun climbing for another short pitch. 90'? easy 5.10. pro is finicky and technical. i appreciated big nuts and small/med hexes.

P3) move past a short section of easy wide crack into a few yards of full-value offwidth (5.10) with bolts on the face. pull up to juggy rails at the overhang and it's all over. if you dont have huge cams, dont bother bringing gear on this pitch. there is nothing above the roof except 5.easy face to a comfy station.

Location

Find Triassic Sands, and walk climber's left a dozen yards to a face with lots of bolts arching up and right to a flake. Seriously, though.. You can't miss this route.

Rap each pitch. A 70m will get you from P2 to the ground on stretch.

Protection

A single rack to #3 camalot is probably fine for most folks. One might consider tossing in some small to hand size hexes which can make up some of the best pro you'll get on parts of the second pitch. Finally, for the wide crack at the top, you could bring a 4, 5, and 6 and probably climb the thing with pro over your head the whole way. however, the bolts are quite reasonable up there so cams are not necessary.

the first two stations are not my all-time favorites. the first station's bolts are about four inches apart, which is annoying for the short period where both of you are hanging. the second station has one bolt in an almost-detached block, although you could put a #3.5 or #4 in to beef it up a little.
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
 
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
 
To avoid the hanging belay on the first pitch(I hate hanging belays!):

Lead through the first pitch on draws (not taking gear through the 5.11 section). Clip into the anchor and lower the end of the rope down and have your partner attach your rack. Continue through the 5.10 crack and belay your partner through the first two pitches from the second pitch.

The offwidth kicked my ass! Certainly not my specialty as I have not had a lot of practice with offwidth technique. Also, a #5 will not do it, the damn thing opened right up. Use a number 6 if you want to protect it. I chickened out (even though the pro was quite reasonable), and stepped into a sling, aiding through the wide part. Dec 7, 2006
FWIW, the three pitches on this line can be lead as one. Mar 18, 2007
Josh Audrey
LAS VEGAS
Josh Audrey   LAS VEGAS
there is also a direct line for the first pitch, that the Brock/Mcmillen book lists as 12a. my partner and i did this first pitch the other day and it seemed a little harder than 12a, but far be it from the Brock/Mcmillen book to be wrong. the first bolt is pretty high with crux like moves below it, we threw in a .5 camalot and glad we did cause i popped right below the bolt. May 14, 2007
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
Really good- bring a 70m and do this as one pitch, but rack up at the bottom- dont hang at the first belay and tag up the rack....

I'd say the .11c is right on for the first pitch, i'd call the second and third pitch .10ish- not as bad as they could have been.

those bolts, btw, are no good. the 3/8" bolt is a urioste- just as bad as the 1/4" ones. bring some pro for the upper part- a #6 should do it. May 15, 2007
MJW
Boise, ID
MJW   Boise, ID
The first pitch is a good sport route to round out your day if time is short .The 12a sport route to the right is really good too. Oct 29, 2008
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
Rope solo

I did the whole route and found it mostly enjoyable. The bolts higher are mostly old. I needed to do 9 pitches rather than 8, with the last two being each about 150 ft with short sections of 10A. There are no fixed belays for the last two pitches. Second pitch protects poorly with cams or nuts. Hexes would hel--or it is a hand sized crack--run it out. Apr 3, 2010
paulmadry
  5.11
paulmadry  
  5.11
camalot #6 fits perfectly for the third pitch to back the bolts. Apr 25, 2013
Jordan Moore
Berthoud, CO
Jordan Moore   Berthoud, CO
I agree, #6 çamalot is perfect for backing up the bolts. There is a very short section before the first bolt where a #4 would fit but is on easy climbing, then you're on #6 chicken wing terrain. I thought it was very well protected. Enjoy! Dec 1, 2013
Simon W
Nowhere Land
Simon W   Nowhere Land
Great climb.

Left anchor bolt at the top of P1 needs tightening.

That said someone really should make an attempt to equalize the two or remove one and place the second bolt in a better location. Sep 26, 2015
yann gauthier
Trois-Rivières, QC
yann gauthier   Trois-Rivières, QC
youtube.com/watch?v=aocSR8P…

the first pitch Nov 30, 2015
Michael Dom  
 
Don't bother bringing a 4 or a 5. If you are doing it as one pitch you may appreciate having two sixs. They can fit after the wide flakes in the second pitch and backing up the bolts on the third. I am not sure what kind of ancient hardware that is on the third pitch but it was not inspiring. Jan 5, 2017
Max Shaffer
Boston, MA
Max Shaffer   Boston, MA
The pitch 2 off-width is seriously runout. Although I think the climbing through this section is in the 5.9+ range, a fall here will land you on top of your belayer. A #6 won't fit. Apr 2, 2017
Daniel Vakili
Los Angeles, CA
Daniel Vakili   Los Angeles, CA
we topped this out. The chimney belay after the 4th pitch is really awesome, and both anchor bolts are originals, each with the initials "JU" inscribed on them. Although all of the bolts on the rest of this climb are original and of questionable quality, if you've climbed the initial pitches you'll probably not struggle on the upper pitches. It's a fun journey where you can imagine how the first ascentionists chose the best sections of rock to climb. Single rack to #3 camalot with some extras in .75 and below, and a single rack of nuts. We bumped a # 6 up the offwidth pitch. Mar 26, 2018