Avg: 3.5 from 363 votes
|Type:||Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||1975, Cal Folsom and Lars Holbek|
|Page Views:||21,808 total · 106/month|
|Shared By:||John Peterson on Mar 18, 2004|
|Admins:||Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc|
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
I'll describe 3 pitches but any two can be combined.
P1 (5.10a, 50'): climb a thin crack just right of a dihedral that leads up to the obvious crack higher up. The crux comes almost immediately and is well protected. Step left below an obvious hand-sized crack to belay at a bolted anchor.
P2 (5.10a, 50'): climb the handcrack to a roof. Instead of following the crack through the roof, traverse right to the next crack and pull through a hard move (5.10a) which is well protected. A hanging belay just past the crux allows the leader to recover before the next pitch.
P3: (5.8, 110'): climb an excellent hand crack to the top of the pillar.
Both cruxes felt harder than 5.10a to me (this rating comes from the guidebooks) but each was short and well protected.
Rap off the other side of the pillar. Two 60m ropes will take you all the way down. An intermediate anchor allows descent with just one rope. For added excitement you can TR Our Father (5.10d) on the way down.