Avg: 3.4 from 234 votes
Routes in Whiskey Peak
|Amber T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Archaeopteryx T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Bourbon Hangover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Canadian Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Cole Essence T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Desert Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|First Grader T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Frogland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Geriatrics (aka Ben Dover Beelzebub) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Ixtlan T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Kenny Laguna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Matzoland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Mazatlan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Miss Conception T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Misunderstanding, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Only the Good Die Young T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Our Father T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R|
|Perplexity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Rain Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Return To Forever T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Sand Felipe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Sandblast T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Tales from the Gripped T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Triassic Sands T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Wholesome Fullback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||1975, Cal Folsom and Lars Holbek|
|Page Views:||16,445 total, 98/month|
|Shared By:||John Peterson on Mar 18, 2004|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis route ascends the left side of the large pillar at the right side of Whiskey Peak. Approach from the streambed up a trail just past a house-sized boulder on the right side of the wash.
I'll describe 3 pitches but any two can be combined.
P1 (5.10a, 50'): climb a thin crack just right of a dihedral that leads up to the obvious crack higher up. The crux comes almost immediately and is well protected. Step left below an obvious hand-sized crack to belay at a bolted anchor.
P2 (5.10a, 50'): climb the handcrack to a roof. Instead of following the crack through the roof, traverse right to the next crack and pull through a hard move (5.10a) which is well protected. A hanging belay just past the crux allows the leader to recover before the next pitch.
P3: (5.8, 110'): climb an excellent hand crack to the top of the pillar.
Both cruxes felt harder than 5.10a to me (this rating comes from the guidebooks) but each was short and well protected.
Rap off the other side of the pillar. Two 60m ropes will take you all the way down. An intermediate anchor allows descent with just one rope. For added excitement you can TR Our Father (5.10d) on the way down.