Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Whiskey Peak

Amber T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archaeopteryx T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bourbon Hangover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Canadian Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cole Essence T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Desert Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Grader T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Frogland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geriatrics (aka Ben Dover Beelzebub) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ixtlan T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kenny Laguna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Matzoland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mazatlan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Conception T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Misunderstanding, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Only the Good Die Young T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Our Father T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Perplexity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rain Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Return To Forever T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sand Felipe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sandblast T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tales from the Gripped T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triassic Sands T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wholesome Fullback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1975, Cal Folsom and Lars Holbek
Page Views: 17,557 total · 99/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 18, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


264 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This route ascends the left side of the large pillar at the right side of Whiskey Peak. Approach from the streambed up a trail just past a house-sized boulder on the right side of the wash.

I'll describe 3 pitches but any two can be combined.

P1 (5.10a, 50'): climb a thin crack just right of a dihedral that leads up to the obvious crack higher up. The crux comes almost immediately and is well protected. Step left below an obvious hand-sized crack to belay at a bolted anchor.

P2 (5.10a, 50'): climb the handcrack to a roof. Instead of following the crack through the roof, traverse right to the next crack and pull through a hard move (5.10a) which is well protected. A hanging belay just past the crux allows the leader to recover before the next pitch.

P3: (5.8, 110'): climb an excellent hand crack to the top of the pillar.

Both cruxes felt harder than 5.10a to me (this rating comes from the guidebooks) but each was short and well protected.

Rap off the other side of the pillar. Two 60m ropes will take you all the way down. An intermediate anchor allows descent with just one rope. For added excitement you can TR Our Father (5.10d) on the way down.

Protection

Small cams at the cruxes, long fist sized crack at the end.
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
We did this route in one long (~160') pitch to a ledge and then a shorter pitch up the chimney/flared slot (handcrack?). The first pitch has lots of 5.9/10- moves and you need to meter out the pro carefully to do it as one long pitch. However this way you do not have to do a hanging belay. The second pitch is much easier, and although it looks to be flared weirdness from the ground is nothing to worry about. Mar 25, 2004
Larry DeAngelo
Las Vegas, NV
Larry DeAngelo   Las Vegas, NV  
On the beginning of the second pitch, you can also traverse to the right before the initial hand jam. A thin crack (about 5.9) leads up the right right side of the small roof. Jun 24, 2005
Jeremy
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Both cruxes felt harder to me too. The second crux was pulling out of the traverse for me. The guidebook made it look like the crux was the traverse. Pulling out of it was funky. Jul 3, 2006
Danny Inman
Arvada
  5.10b
Danny Inman   Arvada
  5.10b
Awesome route. did it as one 70-m pitch to base of chimney section, then one 20-m pitch to the top of the block. Rapping off we got our rope hoplessly stuck on Our Father-watch out for the velcro-like nature of the face. Oct 10, 2006
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
Agreed on the cruxes, felt harder than 5.10a. I did not see a bolted belay as described in the description (except for at the top, where you rap). Nice route thought. Did in two pitches as described in other posts. Dec 7, 2006
Aaron S
 
Aaron S  
 
We did this with a short first pitch with a nice ledge to the left and then a longer pitch to the top. I did not see any spot that would be remotely comfortable to belay from after that early ledge.

The first pitch felt like standard 10a to me but pulling out of the roof on the second was pretty tough. May 12, 2007
Thomas Schmid
  5.10c
Thomas Schmid  
  5.10c
We did this route in two pitches. The first pitch is clearly harder than 10a. The crux was pulling over the roof after the traverse. At the second pitch, just continue on in the chimney and get over the block at the top onto the nice ledge behind it. You can only see two stripped bolts while in the chimney, but don't worry. The proper anchor is around the corner and you can't see it unless you are on the other side. That initially freaked me out a little :) Mar 3, 2008
Ben Folsom  
 
Yeah, the stripped bolts at the top of the route freaked me out a little too, as I didn't see the nice anchor for a minute. Did a 70 meter pitch to the base of the chimney, and a very short second pitch to the top of the pillar. Great route, nice cracks. Other than the top anchor (at the top of Our Father), I do not remember any other fixed gear on the route. Oct 20, 2008
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
 
For me also the crux was just after the traverse. Climbing was so fun I got to the end of the 60 and had to downclimb a bit on the face to backclean for a hanging belay (we brought doubles). Never found anchors. 2nd pitch was shorter through the chimney up and right to Our Father anchors. Save some gear or bring trips in hands and set up a belay on pitch 1 when you find a good stance. Great climb, easy pro. Apr 8, 2009
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
  5.10a
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
  5.10a
I've done my share of climbing:IMHO- BEST route I've ever done!! Total sandbag but for nostalgia let's keep calling it 10a! Head's up: you can lead the money pitch of 'Our Father' on the way down! ;-) Apr 21, 2009
scalparm
Vienna, Austria
scalparm   Vienna, Austria
This climb definitely feels harder than 10a! I did Amber(10c) which has the same start and goes left at the hand crack. Wholesome Fullback felt MUCH harder by comparison. Though I think I did it a harder way. The crux was right after the traverse. I descended with two 60m's and it took two rap stations of the three to get to the ground. Maybe to 70's would get you there in one go, though I doubt it. Nov 15, 2009
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10c
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10c
Strong 5.9 climbers looking to push their game beware: This is no gimme 5.10. I reckon the grunt-fest move into the crack just after the traverse right--though certainly well protected--is as hard as passing the bulge on P2 of Triassic sands (which, to be fair, was itself downgraded to 10b in the Handren guide). And this comes AFTER the thin crack-O-doom right off the ground that will have you promising God to give up your every vice.

Still, take that first pitch, young leader, and join the club. Wholesome Fullback is a grand, if at times awkward, line. Apr 1, 2010
mousebob
  5.10b/c
mousebob  
  5.10b/c
Great route, but beware - I would say it is much harder than .10a. Both cruxes felt harder than Triassic Sands to me. Bring small gear for the first crux. Be sure not to miss the toprope of Our Father on the way down! Mar 30, 2011
Patrick Mulligan
Reno, NV
 
Patrick Mulligan   Reno, NV
 
I also did this route in two pitches. IMHO you would loose out on a completely classic long pitch at the grade if you split the first section into two pitches and you don't gain much benefit. However, even with several long slings I had significant rope drag pulling up past the bulge post traverse. I was pulling up 2-3 feet of slack at a time then making the next move. Also, after leading the first long pitch, my climbing partner who had done the route before commented that he had safely led the first pitch through the thin flake to the right of the handcrack. He said that the flake was consistent with the grade, well protected with small offsets, and saved him the rope drag that I faced pulling over the bulge. Nov 30, 2011
Patrick Mulligan
Reno, NV
 
Patrick Mulligan   Reno, NV
 
Just redid the route (was going to climb Amber but landed behind a party of three) this weekend. We broke it into three pitches and I have to say that the climb was very pleasant that way. The upper pitch retains its punch, but at least you're not fighting terrible rope drag through the crux. Oct 1, 2012
-robin-
  5.10a
-robin-  
  5.10a
Did with one 70 to the top, belayed from the top of the pillar from a gear anchor in the crack, best way to do it, maybe an extra #2 and 3 to make ya feel nice and fuzzy inside, but not quite runout without them. great route. Nov 30, 2012
This is the best single pitch of climbing I've done in Red Rocks. The splitter hands below the traverse is incredible, just too short.
We ran a single pitch to the good ledge just below the chimney, seemed closer to 180'. Rope drag was not too bad. Took a full double rack with extra #1, 2, 3 and do not regret carrying it all. We used a #4 on the 2nd pitch, but not necessary if you don't mind running it out on easy offwidth. Apr 20, 2013
Royal
Santa Rosa, CA
  5.10d
Royal   Santa Rosa, CA
  5.10d
This thing is so not 10a! I call major sandbag. the crux is short, but it's a hard SOB. I can climb 10a and I was nowhere near sending the crux. It's at least 10c/d. The first pitch seems like honest to god 10a. I liked the first pitch best. Jun 7, 2013
Eugene Kwan 1
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Eugene Kwan 1   Cambridge, Massachusetts
Amazing route that has a bit of everything. Starts as tips to Exasperator-Crack-style fingers (crux #1), then Indian-Creek-style hands, a Gunks-style traverse, a weird Red Rocks roof-with-a-crack (crux #2), and cruiser 5.8 crack to the alcove. In Squamish, this pitch would be mid 5.10, unlike many of the other routes in the area.

Rappel Our Father with one 60. On the second rappel, look for a rap station on a ledge slightly to the right at two shiny bolts. Our ropes got stuck on this rappel inside a crack and I had to lead back up the scary second pitch of Our Father. However, because we started from the right hand side, I clipped three bolts before heading up the corner and it wasn't too bad. This is no harder than the first pitch of The Gobbler, just a bit more run out. In other sandbagged places, this pitch would be considered 5.9 and certainly not R.

Wholesome Fullback itself is quite well protected if you bring a big enough rack. If you want to protect every move, I would recommend doubles to 1", 3 x #2 gold camalots, 2 x #3 blue camalots, and one #4, with a good selection of microcams for the beginning. Nov 27, 2015
yann gauthier
Trois-Rivières, QC
 
yann gauthier   Trois-Rivières, QC
 
there is no bolt after the traverse(bolted belay) you have to go all the way to the top if you want a bolted belay on top of our father.
We did one small pitch to the bolted belay of Amber (Nice ledge) and when back on the route for one long pitch to the top of our father. Nice route , crux is after the traverse trying to go back on the vertical cack. Nov 29, 2015
Aaron Moses
Richmond, Va
 
Aaron Moses   Richmond, Va
 
A 70m rope wouldn't get me to the bolts on our father, but got me to a point that I could wedge into the chimney rather than have to build an anchor. From there, it was just a short scramble to the anchors. Feb 16, 2016
I was half expecting a bolted anchor at the top of the long first pitch but never got it. So we built a gear anchor on a ledge before the short wide final pitch. Save some bigger pieces for the belay here. I think we had five #2's and 2 #3's and I used it all up. It was awesome to do the whole beginning as one pitch, but I would also recommend using the anchors out left on Amber and splitting up the cruxes on the long first pitch. Then you could go all the way to the top of the route in one long second pitch. And the rope drag shouldn't be any worse I wouldn't think. Definitely an awesome route. Mar 2, 2016
The Blueprint Part Dank
FEMA Region VIII
  5.9+
The Blueprint Part Dank   FEMA Region VIII
  5.9+
You can't easily see the bolted anchor atop P1. It's located on a small pedestal up and left of the ledge at the base of the handcrack (the one prior to the p2 traverse) May 7, 2016
Aaron Henriquez
Boulder
 
Aaron Henriquez   Boulder
 
Kind of surprised this gets a more difficult rating than Amber. Amber is a harder line, without a doubt. This would be a 5.8+ or 5.9 in Eldo Mar 30, 2017
Mei
Mei  
I risk stating the unncecessary since you are here reading MP, but I just wanted to point out in capitalized letters that the Handren guidebook made a mistake recommending a single rack with triple red to blue cams to lead a linked 180' first pitch. Based that recommendation, I carried a single rack to red (my perfect size) plus 2 gold and 3 blue. I was surprised to see that when turning the roof, it's the finger sizes that were needed to protect the crux there, which I had none by then. Did have to run way out, and was glad to have saved a gold and a blue to build a bombproof anchor anchor to belay my second at the end of my 60m rope as a chimney wedge belay may not pass as the safest option. I gave Handren a silent curse for the misinformation.

60m rope can rappel Our Father without any problem.

The moves off the ground climbing the thin face and seam felt harder than 10a, but I'm short. Nov 10, 2017
Daniel Evans
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10b
Daniel Evans   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10b
The bolted anchors are hard to see mid-lead if you don't know where to look and are located on the top of the right facing corner just before the traverse section (~10 ft left of the initial P2 hand crack).This would be a 10a in Joshua Tree, so probably fair at the 5.10b/c range for the area. I linked both the crux pitches by accident because I couldn't find the anchors and it was gnarly! Just bring triples/quads of 1-2 size pieces if you do this as the crack is pretty consistent in those sizes. Bring finger sized pieces for the second crux after the traverse (.3 - .75). In hindsight, I think this is the best way to do the climb.

My recommendation:

P1: Link P1 & 2 crux sections (Just use a double length runner to protect the traverse--I didn't have any rope drag doing it this way). Build a hanging belay after the second crux on nuts and finger sized pieces from 0.2 - 0.75. Full value pitch when done this way! (5.10)

P2: Climb a really fun splitter 5.8 hand crack (1-2") past a short wide section with good face holds out right (no offwidth necessary) to surmount a false summit/large ledge. Follow the ledge back into an easy squeeze chimney. Shimmy your way to the opposite side of the chimney and belay off a bolted anchor on the other side for Our Father. Twin 70 m ropes will get you to the ground from here.

Note: As of 1/5/18, the only bolted anchors on this route are at the top of pitch 1 and those for Our Father. Do not expect any other bolted belay. Jan 11, 2018
Carla R
San Jose, CA
 
Carla R   San Jose, CA
 
I linked up through to the base of the wide section on a nice ledge, about 180 feet, and built a belay with a .5, #1, and #2 camelots. Definitely thought this was easier than the crux on Triassic Sands. I also enjoy finger cracks more than bouldery sequences.. YMMV Good protection throughout. If you extend mindfully you won't have drag. Apr 16, 2018

More About Wholesome Fullback

Printer-Friendly