Type: Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches
FA: 1975, Cal Folsom and Lars Holbek
Page Views: 21,100 total · 104/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 18, 2004
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This route ascends the left side of the large pillar at the right side of Whiskey Peak. Approach from the streambed up a trail just past a house-sized boulder on the right side of the wash.

I'll describe 3 pitches but any two can be combined.

P1 (5.10a, 50'): climb a thin crack just right of a dihedral that leads up to the obvious crack higher up. The crux comes almost immediately and is well protected. Step left below an obvious hand-sized crack to belay at a bolted anchor.

P2 (5.10a, 50'): climb the handcrack to a roof. Instead of following the crack through the roof, traverse right to the next crack and pull through a hard move (5.10a) which is well protected. A hanging belay just past the crux allows the leader to recover before the next pitch.

P3: (5.8, 110'): climb an excellent hand crack to the top of the pillar.

Both cruxes felt harder than 5.10a to me (this rating comes from the guidebooks) but each was short and well protected.

Rap off the other side of the pillar. Two 60m ropes will take you all the way down. An intermediate anchor allows descent with just one rope. For added excitement you can TR Our Father (5.10d) on the way down.

Protection

Small cams at the cruxes, long fist sized crack at the end.

Photos