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Routes in Whiskey Peak

Amber T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archaeopteryx T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bourbon Hangover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Canadian Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cole Essence T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Desert Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Grader T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Frogland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geriatrics (aka Ben Dover Beelzebub) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ixtlan T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kenny Laguna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Matzoland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mazatlan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Conception T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Misunderstanding, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Only the Good Die Young T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Our Father T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Perplexity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rain Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Return To Forever T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sand Felipe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sandblast T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tales from the Gripped T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triassic Sands T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wholesome Fullback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 390 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Nick Nordblom, Lynn Robinson Fall 1988
Page Views: 608 total · 13/month
Shared By: Mostafa Noori on Mar 14, 2014
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is a heady climb due to old bolts or lack thereof and fragile nature of the rock. Several holds broke during our ascent.

Pitch 1 130' 5.10a: Climb discontinuous cracks formed by blocks aiming for a dirty gully to the right. Move left to a crack eventually passing over Cole Essence anchors (you probably won't see the anchors). Follow the crack up to a bolt (we only saw one) staying on the right of the arête. When it is possible move back left to a two bolt anchors.

Pitch 2 130' 5.10a: This pitch has fragile rock, old bolts and long run outs so place gear whenever possible. Climb on the left side of the arête clipping a bolt and then pulling the roof. Move to the right of the arête clip a bolt climb up eventually moving back left clipping a bolt heading to a roof. Once under the roof traverse right to a ledge place a 2 BD in a pod it will be at your feet but you can step down to place it. Then climb up fragile rock about 15 feet then move right to another ledge with a bolt. Use this bolt and the crack to the right for an anchor.

Pitch 3 130' 5.11a: A really fun pitch. Go for the finger crack straight ahead. Placing small pro at the crux of the pitch makes this a heady lead. Once you get to the main crack there is good gear all the way to the top. Climb the finger crack eventually moving left across the arête. At the top of the pitch there is cord slung around a block. Use this and gear for an anchor.

Location

15' to the right of Triassic Sands start

Descent

Can be done in 3 double rope rappels.

At the top of pitch 3 use the slung block to rappel to the top of Triassic Sands pitch 4. You can rappel all the way to the top of pitch 2 but pulling the ropes will be difficult. I would advise stopping at pitch 4 and doing it in 4 double rope rappels. Continue with Triassic Sands descent.

Bring webbing/cord

Protection

Single Rack Purple Mastercam to 3 BD, double 1-2 BD, a healthy set of nuts (offsets are useful) and RP (not mandatory)

Photos

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