Avg: 1 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 390 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Nick Nordblom, Lynn Robinson Fall 1988|
|Page Views:||608 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Mostafa Noori on Mar 14, 2014|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis is a heady climb due to old bolts or lack thereof and fragile nature of the rock. Several holds broke during our ascent.
Pitch 1 130' 5.10a: Climb discontinuous cracks formed by blocks aiming for a dirty gully to the right. Move left to a crack eventually passing over Cole Essence anchors (you probably won't see the anchors). Follow the crack up to a bolt (we only saw one) staying on the right of the arête. When it is possible move back left to a two bolt anchors.
Pitch 2 130' 5.10a: This pitch has fragile rock, old bolts and long run outs so place gear whenever possible. Climb on the left side of the arête clipping a bolt and then pulling the roof. Move to the right of the arête clip a bolt climb up eventually moving back left clipping a bolt heading to a roof. Once under the roof traverse right to a ledge place a 2 BD in a pod it will be at your feet but you can step down to place it. Then climb up fragile rock about 15 feet then move right to another ledge with a bolt. Use this bolt and the crack to the right for an anchor.
Pitch 3 130' 5.11a: A really fun pitch. Go for the finger crack straight ahead. Placing small pro at the crux of the pitch makes this a heady lead. Once you get to the main crack there is good gear all the way to the top. Climb the finger crack eventually moving left across the arête. At the top of the pitch there is cord slung around a block. Use this and gear for an anchor.
DescentCan be done in 3 double rope rappels.
At the top of pitch 3 use the slung block to rappel to the top of Triassic Sands pitch 4. You can rappel all the way to the top of pitch 2 but pulling the ropes will be difficult. I would advise stopping at pitch 4 and doing it in 4 double rope rappels. Continue with Triassic Sands descent.
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