Avg: 3.8 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 115 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Charles Cole & Randall Grandstaff -|
|Page Views:||2,974 total · 23/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on May 9, 2007|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionCole Essence takes the aesthetic hanging dihedral just right of Triassic Sands and just left of the Archaeopteryx arete. It is a left-facing, tiger-striped corner with no apparent gear. There is gear, but be willing to do crux climbing above it.
Begin by doing a short pitch up to a big ledge. Take the first pitch of Triassic (5.7), or take cracks on the face just right. From an optional belay on this ledge (best done as one pitch if you can solo or backclean the start), launch up the corner past a few good stances and good gear placements to a cruxy section of gaston palm-smearing on a weird rib of rock on the left wall. If all goes well you'll end up in a chimney position, back to the corner, with a no-hands rest. Continue chimneying up to a timely overhead TCU placement, and pull into a lieback. Climb as high up into the corner as possible (until the holds disappear), and stab the right foot out to a fortuitous notch on the righthand arete. Swing out of the corner and around the arete to clip an anchor, recently upgraded by the ASCA. With a 70m you can lower off all the way to the ground.