Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,109 total · 36/month
Shared By: AJ on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

33 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


This is the right-facing dihedral just left of Ixtlan. The crux is the first few moves and is protected by RPs. The rest of the pitch is mostly hand and finger crack up the nice dihedral. At the top, step left to a small ledge with rap chains.


standard rack including RPs


Kurt Arend
Kurt Arend  
Hey I was on the route a month ago or so and you can lower with a 60m cord barley. Knot the end of your rope and the ends just touch. Also Ixtalan you can rap from the 3rd pitch station to the ground with one 60m. Jul 16, 2004
The smallest (blue) ballnut eliminates the "R" factor on this one-bomber pro through the starting crux. The "RP protected seam" at the start doesn't take very good wires, offset or otherwise, and the ones that you can manage to dick in are the smallest ones comercially available. If 10D is your limit, take 2 blue ballnuts, you'll feel better about falling on them, the crux is techy and low, with the hardest moves really only protected by the slider(s). The rack for this one is 1 set wires, cams tiny to #4, with doubles from .4 or .5 up to #3 and maybe one more #1 camalot for the top corner if you like sewing it up. Without the ballnuts this route is a leg-breaker. Heads up, and enjoy this badass pitch. May 2, 2007
Matt Kuehl
Las Vegas
  5.10d PG13
Matt Kuehl   Las Vegas
  5.10d PG13
I agree, the opening super-thin crack doesn't take very trustworthy RP's. The thin crack itself is also of questionable quality and sounds brittle/hollow, so heads up! The top is really fun and totally cruiser by comparison. Apr 24, 2012
I protected the start as best I could with hb offset brass seemed to be fine. I've only used ball nuts once before so I'm no expert, but I think as Killis said they would work much better. I second Killis' rack for the climb the extra one is nice and I used a extra 2 down low as a multidirectional. Oct 8, 2013
Las Vegas
sqwirll   Las Vegas
This route is only about 105' as Kurt pointed out. Mar 31, 2014
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
Fantastic pitch but a tough onsite. The crux moves are 10 feet off the deck and are technical/tricky, thin, and committing. I had two blue ballnuts and can't imagine leading this route without them. Doubles through #3 plug a single set of nuts is perfect. Apr 12, 2015