Type: Trad, 710 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Larry DeAngelo, John Wilder
Page Views: 13,820 total · 83/month
Shared By: J W on May 28, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


Once again, Scary Larry has had his way when it comes to putting up a new route. Recently, Scary Larry, Bill Thiry, and Thomas Ribiere went on a scouting mission up a potential line that moves up the face just right of Frogland. The initial pitches went mostly as planned, but after a bit of a miscommunication, the upper portion of what Larry had in mind was left unclimbed and instead the team moved up to the summit via some easier ground. Although the team had put up a good line and had had a great day, Larry felt that the line he had in mind should still be attempted in the very near future.

After a bit of wrangling, Larry recruited yours truly into the mission of completing the climb as Larry had originally envisioned. So, we headed out to Black Velvet and, almost without incident put up the climb as Larry wanted, and it turned out great.

This route is a solid step up from Frogland, and is, in many ways, a better route overall. This is a good option for experienced parties that find themselves waiting in line for Frogland and enjoy a good adventure.

Head for the base of Frogland and rope up about 25' left of the start in a corner with a good looking finger crack. (This is just past the little step across on the ledge system)

Pitch 1: Head up the corner over a bulge to a ledge with some bushes. From here, step right and continue up another corner to the first belay of Frogland. 5.7, 120'

Pitch 2: The best pitch on the route. Start as for the second pitch of Frogland. Head up the left leaning ramp, but instead of continuing up the corner, climb the beautiful crack on the right hand wall. (There is another crack about 10' to its right that is probably harder to climb and to protect.) About 70' up, this crack ends. Step right to gain the upper part of the other crack and follow this to belay. 5.8+, 120'

Pitch 3: About 185' above this ledge is a prominent buttress protruding from the main face. The next belay is at the base of this. Head straight up through some bushes, and then strike out onto the face above. Head generally straight up, following the pro. 5.6, 185'

Pitch 4: This pitch looks harder than it is. Step up and right from belay, under a small lip protruding from the base of the buttress. Step up again and then step left onto the top of the lip. Follow this flake up and left until it ends. Pass a small bulge and climb the right facing corner above to a series of small ledges. Edit: From here on out, your goal is to stay generally to the left, aiming for the beautiful slabs above and the summit overhangs. 5.7+, 70'

Pitch 5: Just left of belay is a neat, but short, finger crack. Follow this and then step onto a right leaning ramp and follow it until a large horn is reached. From here, head straight up the beautiful face, following the pro, until an arête is reached. Step right and follow the ramp up and left toward a weakness in the summit overhangs. Belay on a cozy ledge below an improbable looking corner on the left. Edit: Again, you're aiming somewhat left off belay, going for the very obvious slab above. 5.6, 150'

Pitch 6: Step left to the corner, and head up it on the face just left. Protection is obvious. Follow the corner to a large ledge. 5.7, 35'

Pitch 7: This is best done separate from the previous pitch due to rope drag possibilities. Climb the face just to your right as you arrive at the ledge. Follow this up to the summit. 5.5, 35'

Descent: Same as per Frogland.


This route has a good deal of small pro, so bring doubles of everything to about hands size. Also bring a fist sized cam and maybe a 4" cam for the odd slot.


Xavier Wasiak
Las Vegas, NV
Xavier Wasiak   Las Vegas, NV
Four of us climbed the route this weekend. The first pitch was fun. There are two corners left of the start to Frogland and we climbed the corner closest to Frogland. The corner just to the left also looked like fun. There was a bolted anchor at the top of the first pitch that I assume was put up a few years ago by the looks of it. That pitch on its own is very worthwhile, even as an alternative start to Frogland. The second pitch was also fun and from there on out, the climb is all trad and commiting. No easy turning back past the first pitch without losing gear. I do not think the route is nearly as good as Frogland and IMO does not deserve three stars (highest quality). I reserve three stars for routes such as Dark Shadows, Nightcrawler, Crimson C, Levitation 29, CITH, and Triassic Sands. This route, although fun and adventurous (plenty of loose rock and fragile holds) does not compare to those.

Thanks for sharing the new route. Jun 6, 2005
Larry DeAngelo
Las Vegas, NV
Larry DeAngelo   Las Vegas, NV  
Well, I'll start by admitting that the whole "star-rating" thing is a little contrived. Several things went into my high opinion of the route. I had been looking in the area for quite some time and it appeared that the attractive "good line" was rather improbable. The corner looked steep, the face looked blank, and the summit overhangs looked insane. On the other hand, I'm sure that the crack on the second pitch has been beckoning climbers for 30 years. When we headed up we found, to our giddy delight, that the highly improbable was highly possible-- and at a quite reasonable standard, too! Moreover, we thought the rock was mostly good; really just one or two spots to keep you honest. Anyway, I loved it, and expect to do it again... Jun 6, 2005
Xavier Wasiak
Las Vegas, NV
Xavier Wasiak   Las Vegas, NV
Point taken. I look forward to climbing other routes inspired by your vision. The wandering face climbing on the chocolate rock of pitch 3 was also fun. Jun 6, 2005
super dave
las vegas, nv
super dave   las vegas, nv
Did the route yesterday 9/8/2005. Fun route with the best pitch #2 as described. Pitch 4 turning the overhang was also cool. One problem would be the loose rock as would be expected with any new route. Wear a helmet and use caution! Any falling rock will wind up on pitch 1 or 2 on Frogland. Sep 9, 2005
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
We had planned to climb Frogland on Sept. 9, but Larry introduced us to this route instead. It was stellar (esp. the first 2 pitches) and it protected well. It's steep for a 5.8 but the holds are all there and the only section that might give a new 5.8 leader trouble is the short finger crack on P2. It offers bomber finger locks but the feet aren't great. Sep 12, 2005
i climbed this today and second the high praise for the first pitch (splitter in red rock!) and the second too.

we had some routefinding 'moments' around the beginning of P5. i never saw anything i would describe as 'a large horn', and the ramp as drawn in the topo made me try to get offroute. if i were to alter the route description, i would write:

P4: etc etc etc.. step up again and then step left onto the top of the lip. follow fragile rotten rock up and left until it ends. pass a small bulge and climb the ramp above and right, stopping to a belay in a short dirty corner with a decent crack. (we belayed a little above this, which works too. pick your stance.)

P5. Head up the corner to the big featured face above (yes, there is pro) trending right at the top until the arête is reached. Step right and follow the ramp up and left toward a weakness in the summit overhangs. Belay on a cozy ledge below a clean varnished corner on the left.

btw- im generally pretty conservative with protection, and wouldn't bring anything larger than #3 if i do it again. Apr 10, 2006
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
Excellent, well-protected climbing on the first two pitches, and adventurous climbing on the upper pitches, with some loose rock, friable holds, moderate runouts, and route-finding decisions.

The first pitch is very sustained at the 5.7 level. The initial cracks eat pro in the green Camalot (#0.75) size; bring several of these. The last part of the first pitch is a hand-and-fist crack around a roof; save a #2 and #3 Camalot for this section.

The second pitch has two stellar cracks, with the 5.8 crux being a finger crack halfway up. Yellow, gray, and green Aliens worked well here. There is a rap anchor at the top of the second pitch. It seems as if many people just do the first two pitches and rappel; there's lots of chalk on these pitches and almost none on the upper pitches.

The route changes character starting with the third pitch. No more chalk to guide the way; you're on your own for finding the route. It's interesting climbing these upper pitches: you're having a bit of an adventure on relatively untrodden ground, yet you can easily hear the conversations from the conga line on Frogland just a hundred feet to the left.

After climbing past some bushes and easy rock, there is a short, steep 5.6 headwall with PG pro. A short distance above is a similar headwall. Cams in pockets and horizontal cracks worked for pro. Climb up a chocolate-colored face with PG pro to a belay at a small stance at the base of the prominent buttress.

The fourth pitch starts with a fun step left onto the lip of the little roof (5.7). I didn't find the left-angling ramp above the roof to be particularly fragile or rotten. After turning a bulge, I continued up a right-facing ramp, climbed a finger crack in lichenous corner, and belayed on a ledge at its top.

The fifth pitch starts up a face, then heads up right-angling ramp with a prominent chicken head near its end (sling it for pro). From here, the route goes up the face, angling right to the arête. Climb up just left of the arête all the way to its top; don't go around a corner to the right halfway up. The climbing isn't difficult (5.6), but the rock is a little crispy and the PG pro is small cams in horizontal cracks. At the top of the arête, step right and climb a left-angling ramp to its top. I belayed at a small ledge under an overhanging left-angling crack. A larger, more spacious ledge is just to the left, which may be a better spot to belay.

The sixth pitch starts with a traverse left to a dark, varnished left-facing corner. Pro is a bit runout up this corner. There's a 5.7 bulge at the top of the corner that is tricky to protect. I finally got a gray Alien in a shallow horizontal crack, and almost pulled off a dinner-plate-sized loose rock on the ledge above the bulge. An easy lichen-covered corner leads to a big ledge just right of the final gully on Frogland. This pitch was about 60' long the way we did it.

The final easy pitch takes you to the summit not far from the top of Frogland.

All-in-all, a worthwhile route if you've done Frogland, or if the line on Frogland is too long and you're up for an adventurous outing. The first two pitches are four star, the last five are two star, so I'll give the route three stars overall.

Pro: set of wired nuts, #0.5 to #2.5 Tricams, double set of cams from small Aliens through #3 Camalot. Apr 25, 2006
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
bah! a rap station on top of two??? chop it, i say! chop it!

just kidding--almost.

the first two pitches are quite good, but this routes character comes more from the adventure above, i think. my favorite moment of the first ascent was being on the beautiful 5.4 slab below the summit overhangs and looking left and just enjoying the moment of perfect clarity amidst a sea of perfect sandstone slab....it was a great moment and i think of it often. you dont get moments like that often, and this route is one that provides it! Oct 9, 2006
Larry DeAngelo
Las Vegas, NV
Larry DeAngelo   Las Vegas, NV  
Don't worry about chopping, John-- Ron assures me that it is just a sling and carabiner. Probably be gone on the next ascent anyway! Oct 10, 2006
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I thought this route was nearly as good as Frogland and somewhat different in character with more face climbing. The description here, augmented by Ron Olsen's extensive comment, were perfect for getting up the route. I didn't find the topo as useful. We didn't find any sections to be seriously runout, and only a few sections even mildly runout. A few comments on pitches:

P1: This is the most crack oriented pitch and hand jamming technique is almost required at the top.

P2: Awesome! The crux section swallows red aliens. There is still a long length of perlon and a biner around a huge flake at the top of this pitch.

P3: The lower part of this pitch is 5.2 if you follow the easiest (wandering) line until you are about 40' below the belay. Here you have to make a committing move up a steep headwall with no pro in sight above you. There is gear shortly, however. This is one of the 5.6PG headwalls that Ron mentions, I think I managed to wander around those lower down.

P4: The step left onto the lip/flake is weird, we both opted for a less elegant, grunting technique cranking up the flake itself. Do not belay too high at the top of this pitch or it will get you in trouble for the next one.

P5: This pitch I thought the most spectacular of the route and it appears unlikely to go so easily viewed from the ground. There is currently a small fixed cam (purple sling) in the crack at the start, making it easy to know you are in the right spot. After the horn, I climbed up and slightly left and found a nice hairline crack that shot straight up for 80', offering pro every 10' or so. When this crack ends and a difficult unprotected bulge appears above, trend right to the arete, then up another 60' to the belay ledges. Be careful not to knock off any loose rocks at this belay (we belayed at the larger ledge mentioned by Ron, scenic spot!).

P6: The crack at the start of this pitch offers little in the way of pro. There is a good placement for a orange alien, but that's about it as we didn't have a gray alien. This is mildly runout, but not hard. Alternatively, climb the face left of the crack as shown in Larry's photo (also a bit runout).

P7: This could probably be combined with P6, but it would be tricky to avoid rope drag.

I agree with Ron, nothing larger than a #3 Camalot is needed ... 3.5 stars. May 1, 2007
Bruce Lacroix
Sparks, NV
Bruce Lacroix   Sparks, NV
I climbed this route today 5-12-07, and loved it. Great climbing, great pro, and good belay ledges. I give it the highest rating. Good one Larry.I'd rather do this route again than Frogland. Beware of rope drag on the fourth pitch. May 12, 2007
Carrie B.
Las Vegas, NV
Carrie B.   Las Vegas, NV
Definitely fun adventure, my boyfriend & I climbed route this last Sunday, would do it again too!

Only thing I would change is to move belay at top of pitch#2 up to second ledge of bushes. Pitch#3 traverses so much that if you don't have to climb through the first ledge of bushes, it would make it a lot easier to not have rope drag above! May 17, 2007
Karsten Delap
North Carolina
Karsten Delap   North Carolina
Belayed at the second ledge and had no problem with rope drag. Great beta Carrie! First 2 pitches were 5 stars, the rest detracts. Great climb if Frogland is busy! Apr 1, 2009
Andrew Carson
Wilson, WY
Andrew Carson   Wilson, WY
Someone might take a pruning saw and clear a hole through the brush at the start of the third pitch. Or chew through it if the tool use is offensive. None of us had our dentures in, or we would have done the job.
Since the fourth pitch is quite short, you'll find a better belay ledge to end pitch #3 below the short dark varnished wall leading to the base of the aforementioned buttress.
We also did the right-hand crack of pitch #2, which had one stopper at the start of the pod below the intersection of the two cracks. It had a fair bit of fragile rock and none of us freed it, although we climbed to perhaps an easy 5.10 level before wimping out. Several edges broke, and some more are candidates. The section below where the two cracks join was the crux. Pro was tricky.
This is a really good route. The two bolts at the end of pitch #1 have pro bolts above, so it seems like it's a variation of pitch #2 of Frogland. The climbing over there looked very good as a mixed pitch of trad pro and several bolts. It would intersect Frogland and looked like fun. Apr 10, 2009
Larry Graham
Boulder, CO
Larry Graham   Boulder, CO
Climbed this yesterday, April 19, 2009. I would agree that it is a superb alternate to Frogland. I erred on the first pitch and continued straight up about 25 ft above and left of the first belay for Frogland. This turned out serendipitously as I was able to avoid the the 20-25 ft common section of the two routes by making an easy traverse out right to the start of the great crack that marks the point at which you leave Frogland. Thus no party was inconvenienced by the crowds. For those reading these commentaries you might consider making the same "mistake". Not only that but en route to the "incorrect belay" I scavenged a biner with an entire set of wired nuts that had obviously fallen from an upper pitch of Frogland and lodged in a tree!

I thought that Ron Olsen's first paragraph was a perfect description of the route. The upper pitches while quite easy do require good route finding skills and often some creative protection challenges. So the adventure quotient was high at all times. Three of four stars. Apr 20, 2009
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
I was on Frogland today and noticed that it would be fairly easy to work back over to the top of the 2nd (or 3rd, depending on how you did it) pitch of Frogland from the top of the second pitch of Bourbon Street. A short, maybe 25', traverse on fairly easy looking rock would deposit you about 100' below the crux pitch. From the top of 2, go up and over the bush on the left, and look for the broken section of rock to guide you over to the ledge on Frogland.

We didnt do this, but it looked very plausible and may be a fun option to pass parties if you're very fast and the start is clogged up! Oct 6, 2009
The first two pitches were fantastic! We got off route on P4. After pulling the lip, it should be described as a left leaning flake rather than a left leaning ramp, since it was much steeper than what I'd call a ramp. So, if you happen to follow the ramps to the right to a chimney, you can still get back on route. Our P5 was up a crack and some blocks to a small ledge at the base of a left-leaning finger crack. P6 followed the crack right to a large ledge at the base of the roof and then rejoin the original route description of the 5.7 face to get above/around the roof. I wouldn't exactly recommend our route, but it is possible to still pull it off. And our P6 was still quite nice. Oct 20, 2009
Just to add to Amy's comment above, our route finding problems (like others reported here) began shortly after the start of P4. The belay stance at the beginning of that pitch is a tiny ledge directly underneath a large hanging buttress. After heading up the face to the right of here about 15' and surmounting the lip at the base of the buttress, the original route description then starts talking about ramps, faces and arretes that we didn't recognize. So, when we should have been climbing towards the left, up the side of the buttress, we instead ended up climbing to the right, fairly quickly reaching an obvious low angle chimney, followed by a broad ledge where we set up a belay. From there the climb led over increasingly rotten and lichenous rock towards an ominous looking "trihedral" roof in the distance. I mention all this so that if you find yourself in the same position you'll know where you are! Fortunately the correct route can be regained easily. Simply trend left until you find yourself on a ledge with loose rock at the base of a lichenous left-leaning finger crack in a right-facing corner. Head up here to the left, following the crack and after 40' or so you'll find yourself at the belay stance at the top of P5, just below the very recognizable curving "improbable corner" shown in the pictures of P6 above. Of course doing it this way we missed out on what is apparently one of the better pitches on the route... Oct 20, 2009
Doug Foust
Henderson, Nevada
Doug Foust   Henderson, Nevada
John-Larry, Awesome route! I like that it has a little bit of everything. Mar 21, 2010
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
I updated the description to reflect the comments on the route after the fourth pitch.

Its admittedly kind of wandering up there and its hard to describe exactly what route to take. If someone has a good photo of Whiskey peak showing frogland, send it to me and i'll put an overlay of the route on it for folks. Mar 23, 2010
I onsight soloed the first pitch crack several years ago, having seen a bolted rap anchor at the top. My guess is that I wasn't the first person to notice the pitch and climb it. Maybe FRA would be more accurate? As far as the other pitches, Nick Nordblom covered a lot of territory in that area several decades ago, it would seem logical to climb some of the Frogland variations/off-route diversions in the process. This route sounds like it might be an interesting variation but I'm glad I climbed Frogland for the fifth time today-a classic's a classic, a variation's a variation. Apr 15, 2010
Good route - worth the effort is Frogland is jammed up. The second pitch is definitely the crux - beautiful, sustained finger crack - 5.8+ and seems harder that anything Frogland will throw at you. The upper pitches wander a little, but just aim for the wild overhanging corner, which is a bit easier then it looks. Mar 14, 2012
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
Returned to this climb today quite a few years after I first did it with Larry, and I still think that this route is pretty darn awesome. The second pitch has significantly changed character since the first ascent- it was pretty crispy on the edges of the crack when I first did it, making the jams secure (albeit a bit painful). Now, the crack is smooth and devoid of edges around it, making the moves a bit harder (5.9, I think).

The rest of the route has cleaned up nicely- only a couple of spots of loose rock, the rest of it is a joy to climb and I definitely prefer it to Frogland. I really like that each pitch contributes something interesting to the climb.

For those interested, you can definitely traverse between Frogland and Bourbon at the top of the 2nd pitch of both routes, and I'm pretty sure the top of the 3rd as well. Looks about 5.6 or 5.7 both directions. Sep 27, 2013
MN norske
MN norske   Henderson
Great climb. Second pitch is suppose to be the gem of this route but thought the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd pitches were all on the money. The first two pitches were solid 5.8 IMHO. The third pitch was 5.9 if you went straight up from the ledge, scaled the vertical face, and pulled the roof move (maybe 5.10-). Fourth pitch was also great climbing on more of a blank face that has pro when you need it. Warning: large loose block half way up pitch 4 and large loose block near start of pitch five. May 15, 2014
Moritz B.  
The first pitch was amazing. After traversing back to the right, there is a bolt that makes the whole pitch casual yet amazing. It felt hard for 5.7. I would give it 5.8.
The second pitch is also amazing, so is the third one.
The rock is good, I was expecting something far worse.
We brought singles to #3 and doubles up to #0.5. Additionally we brought five DMM Alloy Offset nuts.
If you want to place a ton of gear bring more nuts, and maybe a second 0.75 for the first pitch. No #4 needed. Apr 1, 2015
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
First, second and fifth pitch are great. May 30, 2015
Dennis Hsu
Walnut Creek, CA
Dennis Hsu   Walnut Creek, CA
Climbed on Feb 13, 2016. I have thin fingers, so I had to ring lock the 2nd pitch finger crack, making it feel more like 5.9. Overall, this was a very enjoyable route. Pitches 1 and 2 were great, and I really loved the exposure on the lesser-mentioned pitch 4. Pitch 6 was fun and short, and offers amazing views if you turn around while climbing the slab. I thought Bourbon Street was far more memorable than its popular neighbor, Frogland. Feb 16, 2016
Nicholas Gillman
Las Vegas
Nicholas Gillman   Las Vegas
Excellent route. Any idea on the grade of the thin seam that goes to that shallow scoop just to the right of the second pitch? It's the line we ended up taking and it was suspect gear on some pretty thin/delicate climbing , felt miles away from anything else on the rest of the route. Oct 23, 2016
l rs
l rs  
I don't know if it's just me but I felt the 1st pitch( which I followed) was WAY harder than the "crux" pitch( which I led). Moves were more burly and required alot of thought. Got off route somewhere on pitch 3 but never felt too lost. Pitches 1 and 2 are excellent although would likely give a new 5.8 leader some hesitation. Apr 9, 2017
Alex Fletcher
Anaheim, CA
Alex Fletcher   Anaheim, CA
First off, as of 1/17/18 there is no pencil in the summit box!!

Climbed this yesterday. Did it in 6 pitches by extending 4 to a hanging belay (unintentional since my partner suddenly told me I had 10 feet of rope remaining) and then going to the end of six on the next pitch. I would do it again this way though.

As for gear recommendations, I brought stoppers from micro to large and cams from #0 c3 to #4 c4 and doubles from .3 to 2. I never used the 4, never needed a double 3, and never used double 1's or 2's. Doing this route again, I would only bring doubles of .4 - .75 and maybe that double .3 just to be safe. Jan 18, 2018
This was a good route
We climbed on a 105 degree F day in mid May. The first pitch was mostly in the shade.
The second pitch was in sun for the leader but went into shade for follower - The route remained in shade for rest of the day.
There was a conga-line of parties climbing Frogland all day, but we had this climb to ourselves.

The first pitch seemed harder and more sustained than the crux second pitch.
There are bolts at top of this pitch. I clipped one and walked up the ledge closer to the corner to belay at the tree.

The second pitch crux is a short section of finger crack in black varnish.
Following this was a fun no-hands traverse for a couple of steps on a ledge when switching from top of the crack on left into the crack on the right.
We climbed up to the second brushy ledge to build a belay. There was a rappel station at this ledge - a webbing-slung block with a quicklink.

3: We stopped on a more comfortable narrow ledge just before the final black varnish headwall, rather than proceeding up to the semi-hanging stance just under the pitch 4 flake.

4: Climbed up the varnished headwall, past the normal belay spot, then up using the right edge of the flake and the mostly blank face to its right.
Climb until you can reach the positive holds on top of the flake, then an unlikely-looking couple of moves gets you on top. The moves are much easier than they look like they will be from below.

5: The "horn" mentioned in the description is visible from the belay. If you look up you should see it.
At the top of the final ramp, we belayed on the larger comfortable ledge to the left not the tiny "cozy" ledge on the right.

6: A few delicate moves on the face to the left of the corner gets you to some good holds and easy climbing to the ledge. We linked this pitch and pitch 7 with no rope drag problems.

7: A few low fifth-class moves off of the ledge leads to a fourth class scramble to the top.

Descent: Followed the standard Frogland descent gully Jun 18, 2018