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Routes in Whiskey Peak

Amber T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archaeopteryx T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bourbon Hangover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bourbon Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Canadian Club T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cole Essence T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Desert Wave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Grader T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Frogland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Geriatrics (aka Ben Dover Beelzebub) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ixtlan T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kenny Laguna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Matzoland S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mazatlan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Conception T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Misunderstanding, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Only the Good Die Young T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Our Father T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Perplexity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rain Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Return To Forever T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sand Felipe S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sandblast T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tales from the Gripped T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triassic Sands T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wholesome Fullback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: N. Modelo & T. Cate - 1994
Page Views: 5,372 total, 35/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Mar 15, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


122 Opinions

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Probably a three-star pitch before it was retrobolted into submission. Begin just left of Triassic Sands and follow the obvious line of shiny bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

If you don't have enough draws, don't worry; in many places you can simple reach down, unclip the draw at your feet, and clip it into the next bolt. Nevertheless, the pitch does offer outstanding face climbing.

A single rap with a 70m cord will get you down, or you can continue past a few more bolts up a very short second pitch (that appeared to be of lesser quality from below).

Protection

A dozen or so draws.
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
  5.10-
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
  5.10-
This climb has my vote for one of the best single bolted pitches of 5.10a in the park. Much better and more flowy than Back in Time near the Necromancer. If you enjoy climbing in the gym you'll dig this thing.

That being said... skip some bolts for the full value. This rig could use about 8 fewer than it has. Oct 26, 2017
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
 
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
 
I was pleasantly surprised by how fun and engaging this route is (we just did first pitch). A couple of thoughtful cruxes down low followed by plenty of enjoyable moves positive edges. The steepness gives it a slightly "serious" feel -- you really have to work a few of the smaller edges and crimps to stay close to the wall -- but the generous bolting lets you relax and enjoy the climbing.

I tapped on a few hollow flakes here and there but overall the rock quality was good where you needed it to be. May 12, 2016
Larry S
Boulder, CO
 
Larry S   Boulder, CO
 
Short fun climb. I only did the first pitch, but it might be a good warm up for Prince of Darkness, similar gym like movements, maybe a touch easier than the 2nd or 3rd pitches on POD. Feb 17, 2016
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Great climb. Would have been better with fewer bolts, but it is still quite good. May 29, 2015
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.10a
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.10a
Damn. Glad I'm not doing stand-up comedy in front of this crowd :) I think Sand Felipe is an outstanding climb. In other climbing areas this would one of the best, if not the best, climbs at the crag. Whereas, here it is maybe middle of the pack.

And for the bolting: I don't mind the closely spaced bolts so much but if the reasoning is to make a super safe climb then why did whoever retrobolt not put in another bolt to protect the moves getting to the bolt ladder? Like other people here said, not well thought out and how about using bolts made for the application for which you intend to use them like, um, bolts designed for climbing? I wouldn't want all routes to be this closely bolted but a few here and there just adds to the variety that is climbing.

Anyway, a fun climb and the holds seems to be cleaning up. Feb 16, 2015
Actually, this short route does have its place in the sun. It is ideal for the aspiring Prince of Darkness leader seeking to test his/her skills on similar rock without causing a traffic jam. If you can't lead this, no need to pinch your toes on the Prince. Also, the anchors make a perfect vantage from which to photograph your friends on the crux of Triassic Sands. Sep 30, 2014
JMo
Tucson, AZ
 
JMo   Tucson, AZ
 
There is a ton of suspect rock on this pitch. Nov 19, 2012
This is a high quality face climbing route on very aesthetic rock that is, as was noted by several others above, a great example of how why first ascentionists should choose not to rap-bolt a route into submission. The moves and the rock are interesting, fun, and attention-getting at times. The bolting that accompanies the natural situations on the rock does not pass muster at all.

I looked at the hardware on this one on the way down from replacing an anchor on Triassic, and was not impressed. It looks like some of the dumb bolting if not all of it may have been perpetrated by the blockhead who added a 60' "second pitch", as well as additional bolts on the existing first pitch.

For those who give a shit or are aware of what this means, the "bolts" on the second pitch (and I believe on several of the dumber placements on the first, added later as noted above) are cheap sleeve bolts, intended for concrete use, and wholly unsuitable for use in a life safety/climbing application. I was able to move the left bolt of the topmost anchor by hand, and should have little trouble removing both on a return trip. There is now a stainless 1/2 inch with Fixe/ASCA ring anchors station up top.

CAUTION: the pro bolts on the second pitch and sprinkled throughout the first are the same worthless crap. Though rapping from the top is safe, falling on these chintzy "bolts" on lead is strongly reccommended against. I will post up when they are replaced with good hardware as my schedule allows, til then I reccommend climbing only to the first set of anchors. Aug 5, 2012
Cpn Dunsel  
 
For fans of Prince of Darkness that may be wanting an abbreviated, craggy, one-pitch, version of it. Mar 22, 2011
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
  5.10-
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
  5.10-
you guys are a tough crowd... i thought the climb was very interesting and a tough os at the grade w/out chalk... then again i abhor crimps so who knows... the bolting is retarded on this thing, no thought went into it, very very random placements. when rap bolting it is ok to rehearse the route several times for optimal placements, y'know?! ;) Nov 9, 2010
OKClimber
Folsom
 
OKClimber   Folsom
 
There are certainly many bolts, but the rock is questionable. Didnt clip them all. But it was a fun route. Not one to hike in just to do this, but if you are in the area, not a bad route to tick off the list. May 12, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10-
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10-
fink- actually, thats how the entire route used to be- the first pitch had something like 8 or 9 bolts on it after the FA, but sprouted another 8 or 9 sometime afterwards, making it very out of character compared to the upper pitch. May 12, 2010
Fink Fink
Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
  5.10- PG13
Fink Fink   Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
  5.10- PG13
Certainly worth doing--was suprised to see that Handren's guidebook didn't give it any stars!

I gave it a PG13 not for the clipfest first pitch, but the 2nd...bizarre 20ft runouts between bolts.

Fun to do if you're in the area, but I might just climb to the first set of chains. May 12, 2010
I agree... this route was outstanding. Sure it had a lot of bolts, but some of the rock beneath the bolts may be suspect, thus the plethora of metal. Past the first set of anchors (3 or 4 more bolts) will lead you to another anchor; the climbing is generally more of the same, maybe slightly harder past the first set of anchors. Apr 15, 2007
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.9+
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.9+
Just did this route last week, and I am surprised this line didn't earn more stars--A total blast! Great position, fun AND varied movement, plus you can lower off the first set of anchors with one 60m rope. A must do if you are back on Whiskey Peak. Apr 11, 2007
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
 
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
 
Overbolted, yes. Fun, mmm, it was alright as noted above. We just skipped many of the bolts. I don't remember how many draws we took but did it in one long pitch. The first pitch uses 16 draws in about 100" of climbing (whats even more funny is that the first bolt is fairly high!). You can easily continue through a second pitch (combining the two) with a 60 meter rope, which has 4 more bolts (spaced much further apart). The leader can then be lowered to the first set of anchors, and rap to the ground (again, 60 meter rope will get you back to the ground). Dec 7, 2006
Danny Inman
Arvada
 
Danny Inman   Arvada
 
Crimp, step up, clip a bolt, repeat. Fun climbing, but severely over bolted: 16 bolts in 90 ft. Nov 27, 2006