Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Layton Kor, John Reppy, Brownell Bergen, 1964
Page Views: 2,972 total · 19/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 12, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


24 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

An OK route but it suffers the same problem as Wishbone - a lack of consistency.

Start as for Wishbone but stay right and pull through the roof (crux) to a wide crack. Easier climbing leads to the top.

Location

Same as Wishbone

Protection

The paranoid can use a #4 camalot to sew up the crux.

Photos

Mike Howard    
Brownell Bergen was also on the first ascent in 1964. Just for the record. Oct 19, 2007
The chockstone that helped everyone pull the crux is gone. Probably 5.9+ now. May 31, 2009
coolaid  
Before the roof seemed like the hardest part for me. I ended up slinging a chockstone before moving right.

The roof itself seemed so well protected. Phew... Scary looking up the crack though and seeing all those loose looking rocks in the crack above the roof. Oct 25, 2010
chris_vultaggio
The Gunks
  5.9+
chris_vultaggio   The Gunks
  5.9+
agree on the 9+

kinda strenuous through the roof and above. Sep 24, 2012
Jeremy Malczyk
Southington, CT
  5.9-
Jeremy Malczyk   Southington, CT
  5.9-
If you look around this is pretty well protected with C4 #3 and smaller (with one maybe 20 foot runout on easy terrain below the ledge). Really found myself wanting more #2's than bigger gear. I think 5.9 is about right, but it is easier than other CT 9's IMO (thinking YMC, Cat Crack), maybe due to the solid cam at the crux. Sep 16, 2013