Type: Trad
FA: Henry Barber, Bob Anderson, 1972
Page Views: 7,001 total · 44/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 11, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

Another classic Ragged testpiece. Start at a roof immediately right of Unconquerable. Pull the roof into some tiny cracks and then climb mostly straight up. This pitch keeps coming at you and is a burly lead. The pro is all there but it's hard to hang and place it. Now that the fixed pins are gone this has become a real test of leading skills.

If you want to TR this (and Unconquerable), locate a pine tree that's about 10 - 15 feet down from the top of the cliff that marks this route and Unconquerable. There is gear near the tree to set an anchor.

Location

Immediately right of Unconquerable Crack

Protection

Mostly medium and small.

Photos

Marc H
Longmont, CO
  5.11-
Marc H   Longmont, CO
  5.11-
Bring a couple of hand-sized pieces. They will be the last decent piece of protection you get for the top-out.

If you're going to TR the route, try to use gear instead of the trees. Dec 7, 2007
Ages ago I failed on this route. Then Henry Barber, who was belaying me with a smile took over the lead and gave me a clinic. Magnificent, both Henry styling in the lead and the route, which is undoubtedly one of the best in CT. Aug 10, 2009
Devin Krevetski
Northfield, VT
Devin Krevetski   Northfield, VT
"If you're going to TR the route, try to use gear instead of the trees."

Great advice for all of climbing in Connecticut. Aug 18, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I took a partial ground fall on this early in my climbing career. A TCU popped out of a slot when I jumped. Whitey saved me by reeling in slack fast enough that the rope took most of the force on a small wire and I only bruised my back and didn't break it on the flat rock below. Oct 16, 2010
coolaid  
Just had a really experienced friend have a red alien pull on this too. Made for a frighteningly long fall close to the block. Nov 18, 2010
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Rusty: Were there fixed pins on this route when Barber did the FA? Sep 19, 2011
Bababata
Oakland, CA
  5.11a
Bababata   Oakland, CA
  5.11a
Indeed, there are no pins on the route right now. And none are needed - there is good pro to be found all the way to the top.
A highly recommended lead - varied and technical climbing, very sustained for the grade. As mentioned in the description, pro can be strenuous to place... Mar 19, 2012
Sagan  
Great climb and safe to lead. The trick to getting the gear to be bomber is to place small cams in the horizontal cracks.I Would definitely consider it a ragged mountain testpiece and a climb that is well worth working on lead. Sep 6, 2012
Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
Sorry folks, but this is not 5.10!

Maybe if you TR this thing into submission if might feel like 5.10. However, I think the ground-up onsight lead grade is solid 5.11 - and very sustained at that, with multiple cruxes. The issue is that some of the gear placements compete with the finger placements, making it a pumpy lead. So a successful onsight lead is an impressive undertaking. Nov 7, 2016
. Mobes
MDI
  5.11b PG13
. Mobes   MDI
  5.11b PG13
Jeremy, was this a true onsight or a CT "TR flash" onsight?I have to ask since most folks who grew up around here TR the shit out of the crags for years before leading 5.8. Personally I find Forearm Frenzy to be much easier of a climb all while having a true modern grade. Dec 9, 2016
Tyler Stableford
Carbondale, CO
Tyler Stableford   Carbondale, CO
Caution: the well-chalked flake/tooth about 30 feet up and to the left of the crack is dangerously loose. It wiggles and is just about ready to go; I couldn't quite pull it out but it will no doubt release on an unsuspecting climber, with potentially disastrous consequences. I'd recommend bringing a crowbar to extract it. I was only visiting for an afternoon from out of state or I'd go back and do it myself. May 17, 2017
Kevin Johnson
  5.10d
Kevin Johnson  
  5.10d
The well chalked flake/tooth that Tyler mentioned is no longer there. This changes the sequence into the shallow right facing corner, but is no harder. Climb on. May 27, 2017
I was recently visiting old favorites at Ragged. After leading Unconquerable, I eyed Subline, thinking maybe I could muster some of the old mojo. But I demurred. As usual, Ragged is the biggest small crag around. When I lived in CT in the 1980s, I never top roped at Ragged. Not a single route. That made the crag a place of great adventure. Visions. Ragged Edge. Vanishing Point. Subline. Those routes and others stretched me and made me a better climber because it let them set the terms rather than subduing them with TR previews. Sep 10, 2018
Henry Lester
Boulder, CO
Henry Lester   Boulder, CO
Ironic that when I did this route with hexes and stoppers and EB's, it was 5.10-, but now with better shoes, better gear, and a lighter rope, it is a full number grade harder. Jan 1, 2019