Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Sam Streibert, John Dowd, 1964
Page Views: 293 total · 2/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 11, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Description

From the ledge atop the Cave Slabs, there are two main crack systems: a corner on the left (Ancient Way) and a wide crack on the right (Deception). Leftover starts about 10' left of Deception and climbs a textured face to a thin crack.

The crux is bouldering up to the first nut placement. Bring a good spotter! Once you slam in the first piece (a smallish wire) you're in good shape.

This climb is a true exemplar of Traprock climbing. The pro is adaquate (but just barely), the moves take a lot of thought, and even though the route is only about 60' it can take hours to lead. Ain't no sport climb.

Location

From the base of Unconquerable Crack, pass left through a cave behind the May's Way slab. Then do an easy boulder problem up and left to the higher end of the ledge. This is the same approach as Ancient Way.

Protection

Small and medium gear.

Photos

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