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Routes in Main Cliff
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A Guide to Ragged (1964) T,TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Aid Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ancient Way T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Angle of the Dangle TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Animal Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ashtray TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Bald Face Hornet T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Birdman TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Black Orchid TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bombay T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bombay Direct T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Broadway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bushy Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cage, The T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Carey Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Caroline TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cave Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Cemetary Vault T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cenotaph Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chopper flakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Crag Rat TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Crisis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Cutting Edge T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Cygnus X-1 TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Deception T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Crux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Vision TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Duck Soup TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Easy Rider TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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End Run T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Eternity TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Faceout T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fall Of The House Of Monticello, The TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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For Madmen Only T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Golden Age TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Green Gutter T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hangnail T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Hangover TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hemlock Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hot Rocks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Hurricane Gloria T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Jam Corner T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Juniper Wall T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Knight's Gambit T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Knight's Move T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Kor Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lavaredo Corner T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Left Edge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Leftover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Main Street T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Marlinspike T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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May's Way T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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NCS Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Netherlands TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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No Parking T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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North by North West T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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North End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nux Vomica TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Obsession T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Out Of Orbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Owl Perch T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Poison and Passion TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Pork Barrel Project T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Prince, The T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Ragged Edge TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Right Edge T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Sandbag TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Side Entry T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sisu T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Skull and Bones T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Slingshot T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V1 5 |
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Southside T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Subline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sunday Bulge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Suspense T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Swan Song TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sweat Slot T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Taproot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Terminal Velocity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tower Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Trojan Horse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Un Petit Peu TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Unconquerable Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Vajolet Corner T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vanishing Point T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Vector T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Visions TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Visitor's Reception Center TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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VPM Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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War Eagle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Wet Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Wetwall Wetlock Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Wiessner Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wiessner Slab T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Wishbone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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YMC Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Sam Streibert, John Dowd, 1964 |
| Page Views: | 1,089 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | John Peterson on Mar 11, 2006 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson |
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Description
From the ledge atop the Cave Slabs, there are two main crack systems: a corner on the left (Ancient Way) and a wide crack on the right (Deception). Leftover starts about 10' left of Deception and climbs a textured face to a thin crack.
The crux is bouldering up to the first nut placement. Bring a good spotter! Once you slam in the first piece (a smallish wire) you're in good shape.
This climb is a true exemplar of Traprock climbing. The pro is adaquate (but just barely), the moves take a lot of thought, and even though the route is only about 60' it can take hours to lead. Ain't no sport climb.
The crux is bouldering up to the first nut placement. Bring a good spotter! Once you slam in the first piece (a smallish wire) you're in good shape.
This climb is a true exemplar of Traprock climbing. The pro is adaquate (but just barely), the moves take a lot of thought, and even though the route is only about 60' it can take hours to lead. Ain't no sport climb.
Location
From the base of Unconquerable Crack, pass left through a cave behind the May's Way slab. Then do an easy boulder problem up and left to the higher end of the ledge. This is the same approach as Ancient Way.
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