Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: First free ascent: April, 1964 J. Reppy, T. Streibert
Page Views: 10,280 total · 65/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 21, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


91 Opinions

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Description

This is one of the best routes anywhere. Climb a crack just right of a slab leaning against the wall, about 200' left of Wiessner Slab. Just to the right of this is the roof marking the start of Subline.

The crux is near the top but the whole line is tough with few good rests.

The traditional grade on this is 5.9 but it's certainly comparable with 10a in the west.

Protection

Everything from a small wire to a #3 camalot fits in there somewhere. Mostly larger wires and medium cams.

DO NOT USE THE VEGETATION FOR ANCHOR POINTS

Photos

Mobes Mobesely
MDI
  5.9-
Mobes Mobesely   MDI
  5.9-
as with most climbs here, you will be psyched to have a #4 camalot, I once loaned my #4 to a Gypsy and easily replaced it in the same spot with my #5. Aug 25, 2008
CT has several 5.9 classics that are outstanding. Unconquerable is sustained and a fun lead if you place often. It rewards finding the right position, not using the biggest holds. I still can't decide if Unconquerable or Reflections of Fall are my absolute favorite at this grade level in CT. 5.9 to 5.9+ is about right. It is not as hard as many 10as out West - provided you read the rock well. May 5, 2009
David Friend
  5.9+
David Friend  
  5.9+
Mix of crack and face moves. I thought the crux was just above where the crack widens for a bit. Couldn't get a jam, ended up lie-backing to the left with some fun feet work. Jul 18, 2011
-robin-
  5.8+
-robin-  
  5.8+
A fun bit of crack in an area not known for good crack, .8+ IF the climber has experience climbing splitter crack, as such most CT climbers avoid the good locks and go for the edges, so .9 sounds more accurate, certainly not .10 though. one of the best crack pitches at ragged! Oct 1, 2012
JIncillo
  5.10a
JIncillo  
  5.10a
One of the most fun leads I've done at ragged. A few good finger lockers gets you through the crux. I used A LOT of pro on this line, it just eats gear... Jul 20, 2014
JRM89
Denver, CO
  5.10a
JRM89   Denver, CO
  5.10a
really excellent climb. Didn't lead it but top-roped. For those looking for TR access, there is great gear on the top of the climb, you can leave the long static line at home. :) Feb 21, 2016
Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
Really enjoyable climb!!!! Steep with good gear, and some good rests midway up. You can get away with a single rack up to a #3 which fits in the back of the wide crack nicely w/ long sling. And lots of good nut placements. I would say 9+ if you climb it right or 5.10 if you miss some key features.

Please watch out for several decent sized loose blocks at the easy top section. I can foresee a very bad situation in which a pumped climber gets to the top and carelessly pulls on the loose blocks sending them down on folks hanging out below. Nov 7, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.9+
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.9+
My recollection is there's a knee bar about 1/3rd to 1/2 way up that allows for a no-hands rest. (or maybe one-hand)

In any event...Reppy once told me that he and Streibert gave the 5.9 rating for this climb because they figured that "Only those super climbers in Yosemite could climb 5.10's !" Mar 22, 2017
The rock at the top needs to get trumbled. It's the size of a dish washer leaning out directly over your belayer. Positioned 20' down from the top dead center. Dec 3, 2017