Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Cliff

A Guide to Ragged (1964) T,TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Aid Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ancient Way T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Angle of the Dangle TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Animal Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ashtray TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Bald Face Hornet T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Birdman TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Orchid TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bombay T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bombay Direct T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Broadway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bushy Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cage, The T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Carey Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caroline TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cemetary Vault T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chopper flakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Crag Rat TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crisis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Cutting Edge T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Cygnus X-1 TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Deception T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Crux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Vision TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Duck Soup TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Easy Rider TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
End Run T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eternity TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Faceout T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall Of The House Of Monticello, The TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
For Madmen Only T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Golden Age TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Green Gutter T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hangnail T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Hangover TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hemlock Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hot Rocks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Hurricane Gloria T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Jam Corner T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Juniper Wall T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knight's Gambit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knight's Move T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Kor Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lavaredo Corner T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Left Edge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Leftover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Main Street T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Marlinspike T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
May's Way T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
NCS Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Netherlands TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
North End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North by North West T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Nux Vomica TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Obsession T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Out Of Orbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Owl Perch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poison and Passion TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pork Barrel Project T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ragged Edge TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Edge T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sandbag TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Side Entry T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sisu T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Skull and Bones T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Subline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunday Bulge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swan Song TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sweat Slot T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Terminal Velocity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tower Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trojan Horse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Un Petit Peu TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unconquerable Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vajolet Corner T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vanishing Point T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vector T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Visions TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Visitor's Reception Center TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
War Eagle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Wet Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wetwall Wetlock Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Wiessner Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wiessner Slab T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Wishbone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
YMC Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: First free ascent: April, 1964 J. Reppy, T. Streibert
Page Views: 9,428 total, 66/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 21, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


89 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is one of the best routes anywhere. Climb a crack just right of a slab leaning against the wall, about 200' left of Wiessner Slab. Just to the right of this is the roof marking the start of Subline.

The crux is near the top but the whole line is tough with few good rests.

The traditional grade on this is 5.9 but it's certainly comparable with 10a in the west.

Protection

Everything from a small wire to a #3 camalot fits in there somewhere. Mostly larger wires and medium cams.

DO NOT USE THE VEGETATION FOR ANCHOR POINTS
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.9+
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.9+
My recollection is there's a knee bar about 1/3rd to 1/2 way up that allows for a no-hands rest. (or maybe one-hand)

In any event...Reppy once told me that he and Streibert gave the 5.9 rating for this climb because they figured that "Only those super climbers in Yosemite could climb 5.10's !" Mar 22, 2017
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Really enjoyable climb!!!! Steep with good gear, and some good rests midway up. You can get away with a single rack up to a #3 which fits in the back of the wide crack nicely w/ long sling. And lots of good nut placements. I would say 9+ if you climb it right or 5.10 if you miss some key features.

Please watch out for several decent sized loose blocks at the easy top section. I can foresee a very bad situation in which a pumped climber gets to the top and carelessly pulls on the loose blocks sending them down on folks hanging out below. Nov 7, 2016
JRM89
New Haven, CT
  5.10a
JRM89   New Haven, CT
  5.10a
really excellent climb. Didn't lead it but top-roped. For those looking for TR access, there is great gear on the top of the climb, you can leave the long static line at home. :) Feb 21, 2016
JIncillo
  5.10a
JIncillo  
  5.10a
One of the most fun leads I've done at ragged. A few good finger lockers gets you through the crux. I used A LOT of pro on this line, it just eats gear... Jul 20, 2014
-robin-
  5.8+
-robin-  
  5.8+
A fun bit of crack in an area not known for good crack, .8+ IF the climber has experience climbing splitter crack, as such most CT climbers avoid the good locks and go for the edges, so .9 sounds more accurate, certainly not .10 though. one of the best crack pitches at ragged! Oct 1, 2012
David Friend
  5.9+
David Friend  
  5.9+
Mix of crack and face moves. I thought the crux was just above where the crack widens for a bit. Couldn't get a jam, ended up lie-backing to the left with some fun feet work. Jul 18, 2011
CT has several 5.9 classics that are outstanding. Unconquerable is sustained and a fun lead if you place often. It rewards finding the right position, not using the biggest holds. I still can't decide if Unconquerable or Reflections of Fall are my absolute favorite at this grade level in CT. 5.9 to 5.9+ is about right. It is not as hard as many 10as out West - provided you read the rock well. May 5, 2009
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
  5.9-
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
  5.9-
as with most climbs here, you will be psyched to have a #4 camalot, I once loaned my #4 to a Gypsy and easily replaced it in the same spot with my #5. Aug 25, 2008