Elevation: 761 ft
GPS: 41.618, -72.823 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 121,213 total · 693/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 21, 2006 with improvements by Glen Warner
Admins: Morgan Patterson

Description

This is the largest and most fractured of the central Connecticut crags.

This west-facing cliff is more popular in the summer and can be quite cold during the winter. Routes are up to 100 feet, and anchors are often set far from the edge. Bring your long climbing rope and anchor rope.

Many of the Connecticut's finest routes are at Ragged Mountain, including Wiessner Slab, Wiessner Crack, Unconquerable Crack, Broadway, the YMC Route, Carey Corner, and Subline. Climbers of all abilities will find high-quality routes at Ragged.

Ragged has a long climbing history - many famous climbers have put up routes there, including Fritz Wiessner, Henry Barber, and Layton Kor.

Descend from all climbs using the trails at either end of the crag.

Ragged Mountain is owned by a group of climbers, the Ragged Mountain Foundation. For directions to the crag and parking, please see their website at raggedmtn.org. Please respect the neighbors and avoid trespassing or parking in the many no-parking zones.

Although the RMF does not charge admission to their property, they rely on donations and memberships to survive. They have constructed trails, fought for parking, and advocated for climbers all through Connecticut. If you climb there you should become a member - an annual membership is cheaper than a single day in the Gunks.

A Historic Guide to Ragged Mountain (1964)

John Reppy and Sam Streibert have generously allowed a copy of the original Ragged Mountain guidebook to be hosted on the Internet. I've attached this as a comment below. This is an interesting historical document and also a very good guide to many of the classic climbs at Ragged.A Guide to Ragged (1964) Please note that the 1964 guide lists routes on the Small Cliff. This cliff is on private land and not currently open to climbers.

Restrictions

This property is governed by a very strict conservation agreement. Adding new fixed protection is forbidden. Protection that existed when the cliff was transferred to the RMF can be replaced or upgraded but this is best done by locals.

Commercial use of Ragged Mountain is strictly regulated. Groups of more that 6 cannot use this area if participants are paying. If you have any questions about whether your group is commercial, please contact the RMF. Any large groups should contact the RMF before they use the crag.

There is absolutely no camping allowed on Ragged Mountain or anywhere nearby.

Please check the RMF website and the kiosk below the cliff for additional regulations.

Getting There

See this map: ​Google Map​​​

Parking is available on Sheldon (downhill side) and Moore Hill. Be nice. Don't block mailboxes or driveways. Don't cut through yards. Walk north on Andrews, look for a trail on the right just past the last house on the right.

Additional parking is available at Timberlin Park.  Follow trail North from Timberlin to Main Cliff.

88 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
 6
A Guide to Ragged (1964)
Trad, TR
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 97
Wiessner Slab
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 47
Main Street
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 44
Knight's Move
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 66
Ancient Way
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 88
Wet Wall
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 34
Cemetary Vault
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 46
Tower Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 90
Carey Corner
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 135
Broadway
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 70
Wiessner Crack
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 76
Vector
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 84
YMC Route
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 105
Unconquerable Crack
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 39
Subline
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
A Guide to Ragged (1964)
 6
5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c Trad, TR
Wiessner Slab
 97
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad
Main Street
 47
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Knight's Move
 44
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Ancient Way
 66
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Wet Wall
 88
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Cemetary Vault
 34
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Tower Crack
 46
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Carey Corner
 90
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Broadway
 135
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Wiessner Crack
 70
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Vector
 76
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
YMC Route
 84
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Unconquerable Crack
 105
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Subline
 39
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
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